cav01c14

Does your bolt close fully when you slowly let it close or does it stop just before full battery? I did everything to get my 20 to run on cheap Wally bulk birdshot and finally got it. Take the bolt apart and cut half a coil off the extractor spring. It should close effortlessly now and you shouldn't run into any issues of it not ejecting the shell. *do this at your own discretion as I am not a gunsmith I just did what worked for me *

Mine does now. No issues what so ever. If you have issues the first thing I would try is buy an extra AK extractor spring and cut the one you have now. Take off half a coil or so just enough to make the extractor have a little less tension.

Nice score I bought mine the same way and then converted it. I did a lot to get it to run right and I never could make it 100%. That is until I decided to trim the extractor spring. You see I did everything to this gun. I use it for three gun so it was embarrassing to have it malfunction during a shoot. The main issue I had was it would not always eject a shell right away. Then the issue was when the action would close it wouldn't lock up resulting in the trigger being able to be pulled but the hammer not striking the firing pin. Once I swapped out that spring it closed like butter a

Well I picked this bad boy up the other day and got to say I am pretty impressed. The dot locks up solid and held tight so far. I just used my laser bore sight and down the hallway roughly 30 ft I would say. I then set the dot a bit higher. I took it out and was able to hit the clays pretty well. I don't have it completely dialed in and was wondering if there is any specific range I should? I was thinking 50yds with some slugs and see how it patterned with some #2 for waterfowl. My saiga has a 22in barrel and I believe a full choke but not positive. Anyways here how it looks and I must say I

So cobra should I reprofile the hammer down a bit more. It still pushes the hammer down almost a 1/4 to 1/8 more then it needs to so it still catches? If I go to far on the hammer I can always replace it easy enough. I just wanted to make sure I wouldn't run into any other problems. I know to keep the flat spot and not to mess with the angle at the front of the hammer.

It doesn't happen during operation but it is not cycling 7/8 shot loads. It will cycle 1oz shot. I was just wondering what it might be so I can squeeze every last ounce of power so it cycles everything.

Also only other thing I can think that I changed was the safety with the bho.

Does anyone have any ideas? Not sure why it is hanging up here quite possibly could be the hammer? I have noticed when I pull it all the way back without the recoil spring in that it will pop out of the rail a bit on the left side of the gun. Like the hammer is pressing on the bottom of the bolt. It's a G2 hammer and I thought I polished it well enough. I even took some material off a bit to contour it like factory. Do you think I need to take more material off the hammer? It still pushes down the hammer further then it needs to be able to reset. I really think I need to take

I got mine to run on 1oz low brass and have no issues with high brass. Was it the CSS mags you were having issues with? Don't sell but if you do let me know ha.

Are you shooting 3 in in the CSS spec mags ?

For hunting this fall I just used my 5rd 3in mag and broke a pencil in half and stuck that in between the spring and the follower. Just make sure you can't load more then 2 shells in it and you should be golden.

I can only run mine on 1oz won't cycle on 7/8. Looks good lot of work polishing that thing. What do you mean the op rod extension?

Which new ten rounders do you have? I'm currently using CSS and the only issue I had was fitment which I took care of with a file. Are you using the polymer ones that are on ebay?

Superglued the mag back together with some loctite super glue and wrapped it with a piece of gorilla duct tape. Two boxes of full auto and it's still holding strong. I must say the CSS mag is nice just wish it was easier to load as you can't do it on a closed bolt.

I would think upside down would be like blocking the gas ports or setting one on the stock knob. I thought the whole point was to set and forget