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OmegaX

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Everything posted by OmegaX

  1. I recommend getting a Y chromosome KIDDING!! I just really wanted to make that joke! Now for an actual contribution: I didn't see anybody mention the Remington Managed Recoil slugs. Slugs are are about making a big hole and having TONS of momentum, not necessarily energy. Even pushed a little slower, managed recoil slugs still have lots of momentum, because all slugs are so flippin' heavy. I do think a .308 AR would probably be less of a force-fit for the application, though.
  2. I ordered the FCG and the US-made puck. While I'm in there, I'll slick things up to the best of my ability, and see how it goes. Thanks for the input!
  3. Correct. The springs are stock, and, to confirm, it is a 2011. Its hard to say whether the CSS puck was helpful. The first couple mags of the Universal didn't go with the CSS puck either, but the last few did. I ran out of ammo before I thought of switching it back. Would you say mine's running well enough, now, to put the auto-plug back in? I realize it probably won't magically get it to feed everything, but it would be nice to not have to pay attention to what ammo likes what setting. I'm not sure I dare drill another port, and I guess I'm not sure what you mean by "action re
  4. So, I took my new VEPR out, and it won't eat Winchester white-box, or the Fiocchi trap load. It also isn't real fond of Remington "gun club". Lots of FTE with each of these. Is that normal? Can I get it to eat anything? Do I need to polish up the surfaces like I did with my Saiga, or does it just need a little more break-in? If I have to re-profile the hammer, I can live with it. I still need to replace the FCG, anyhow.
  5. Yeah... sorry about the novel(s). I always feel like tersely-worded posts risk sounding kinda dick-ish, and I probably over-compensate a little. To answer your questions: I've had it for a couple years, but the place I got it from probably doesn't sell a ton of them. I really don't know for sure what year. Is there a guide for what serial numbers correspond to what year? I did the pistol-grip conversion to it. It's a 4-port gun. I'm assuming they're the normal 4-port size. They're a little bigger than 1/16". If you didn't get the WHOLE back-story: I did do the D-mod to it.... kinda unl
  6. So, here's the range report, after polishing things up: I brought out some Winchester white-box, some Winchester AA, some Fiocchi trap-type load, and the last handful of Remington Gun Club. I used the stock plug. I started with the stock puck, but eventually swapped it for the CSS peformance puck. I also brought my new VEPR along for comparison. Both guns gobbled the AA up like candy. So, at least there is one relatively inexpensive trap load I can use. Pumping 10 rounds of 12-gauge through so fast that there are still probably 6 hulls in the air at a time is a HELL of a thing!
  7. Sorry to stir the pot, again, gents, but thank you for your opinions! I haven't forgotten about the thread. I'm just working on reprofiling the hammer and polishing the bolt and rails. I'm going to make it shine! I'm hoping to have it done by this weekend to get out and shoot it again. I'm planning on running the factory puck and gas plug, but I'm going to bring the CSS puck, 6-position plug, and the auto-plug along. To answer Mullet Man's questions: I do have a SGM tri-rail, though I'm not sure I still have the factory hand guard. It doesn't seem to contact anything, but I've found
  8. So, I made the D-mod to the gas block (which, I found out afterward is probably not good). I have a TAC-47 auto-plug, and the CSS puck in it. I took it out to tune the auto-plug with a variety of loads, and no matter how tight I cranked down the auto-plug, it wouldn't cycle the light loads. The really strange thing is that when I popped in in some 2 3/4 high-brass hunting loads, it was pitching the hulls disturbingly far (It took about 2 rounds to make that conclusion. I'm pretty sure 20+ feet isn't good). Can it simultaneously be under and over-gassed? My current plan is to try the 6-po
  9. I'll just keep an eye on things, I guess. I did bevel the edges some, but if I start seeing dings on the puck, would it help to really smooth it out?
  10. We're waaaay off the original topic, now, but I'm really curious. I do have an auto-plug. I would hope that would prevent over-gassing issues. Though, I also have the 6-position plug. If I prevent over-gassing it, am I in the clear? I guess I don't know how it would chew the puck up... is it excess hot gas, or is it friction from rougher edges around the hole? I've got the CSS performance puck in there, but I also have the original (somewhere). I'd rather it not chew up pucks, but I can live with it, as long as it's not instantaneous, and replacements are available. For the r
  11. Well, as I post this I'm about done with the "D". Now I'm concerned. What happens with the blocks? There seems to be a ton of metal, to the point where I can't imagine the bit I took out making much difference.
  12. You guys are a lifesaver! I got a block of oak, a nail-set, and the BIG hammer. I laid it on the concrete, and beat that sucker into submission. The block was easy to get off. Now for lots of tedious filing! Thank you all!
  13. I have beaten the living daylights out of the bottom gas block pin, and it won't budge, even after using copious amounts of Liquid Wrench for days. I even heated it up and tried (just beyond being too hot to touch). Does anybody have any additional ideas? There are only 2 gunsmiths in town, and one of them already said he didn't want to work on it. I haven't run it by the other dude, yet, but I'm not hopeful. If I can't get it, and nobody in town wants to do it, where should I send it? This thing is unbelievable, but I don't want to give up just yet.
  14. Wow... I'd like to have that question back! I never looked. I just saw there was a crook in the trigger group kits on Carolina Shooter's Supply's site. So, I made an assumption. There's TOTALLY a plate in there. I guess you guys can disregard, and I can live and learn.
  15. I'm looking at swapping out the trigger group on my VEPR. When I did my Saiga conversion, the retaining plate was pretty easy to deal with, whereas, the shepherd's crook looks like more of a pain. Maybe I'm being a chicken, but does a Saiga retaining plate work in a VEPR?
  16. My bottom pin will NOT come out, even after soaking it overnight with Liquid Wrench (well, it's actually Blaster, which I've heard good things about) and using a bigger hammer than most. Does anybody have any additional suggestions? I can knock the top one around pretty easily, but that bottom one is a BEAR.
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