JonWienke

I would shoot for about .050" of gas puck play when the plug is screwed in all the way. That gives you some leeway for fouling buildup and dimensional changes due to temperature changes during firing without losing much cycling power. Keep in mind some pucks are longer than others, so measure this with the longest puck you plan on using.

If you're talking about the portion of the barrel under the front sight block, that's likely not threads, just rough machining. The Russians generally press and pin the front sight into place.

Once excess headspace exceeds the the distance the firing pin protrudes from the bolt when the hammer falls, the gun is highly unlikely to fire.

Unless you intend to use your Saiga-12 as a hammer to pound circus tent stakes, the CSS one is fine. It wull handle any reasonable abuse, and most of the commonly encountered forms of unreasonable abuse.

If you'd ever bothered to read an Eotech owner's manual, you'd know that it has an auto-shutoff feature so that you can't kill the battery by leaving it on in the safe. If you use the down-arrow button to turn it on, the timeout is 4 hours, and if you use the up-arrow button, it is 8 hours. And re cheek risers, comfort depends heavily on their design. Set up properly, they are no more uncomfortable than a bare stock. I have them on a variety of guns, ranging from .22LR to .300 Win Mag. The key is that they should slope down to the front slightly (front slightly lower than the rear) so tha

I find it ironic the Obama administration is replacing one of the founders of the Democrat Party with a gun-owning Republican who would be branded a "domestic terrorist" if she was alive today. Good times.

Or better yet, a cigar wrapper...

Could you at least imagine I have 5000 rounds of 12ga and 20000 rounds of M855 green tip?

That is correct. The factory rear sight will have to be removed to install the Black Aces or most any other full-length rail.

In that case, would you mind imagining that I'm married to a 25-year-old bikini supermodel astrophysicist who thinks I'm the love child of Adonis and Priapus, is madly in love with me, and whose favorite recreational activities are making love and shooting guns?

Yes, battery life is "only" 800 hours or so, depending on the brightness level you set. There are sights that have better battery life, but you're going to be changing magazines far more often than batteries. Do you not use flashlights because the battery life is only 1-8 hours? And as to a stock with a riser, don't knock it until you've tried it.

Lube the action with Remington 40X Bore Cleaner or JB Bore Paste, then hand-cycle the action until it smooths out. Both products contain a mild abrasive that will polish mating surfaces and smooth out rough areas without burning up $200 worth of ammo.

A stock with a cheek riser fixes that problem easily enough. If you use an adapter to run an AR-style stock, there are plenty of options that work just fine. I use the Fab Defense GL-Shock; it has the recoil-absorber spring and an adjustable-height cheek riser that make shooting full-power slug rounds both comfortable and accurate.

I presume a 113 armored personnel carrier counts as an ATV. If your gun rack/mount system forces you to grasp the gun by the barrel instead of the grip, stock, or handguard for placement or removal, you're doing it wrong. The same goes for any method of carrying a gun on a sling. Even if you have a shroud on the barrel to prevent burning yourself, if you're grabbing the gun by the barrel, by definition you've got a larger number important body parts that are going to risk damage or destruction if the gun ADs than you do if you're holding the gun in a more or less firing position. A

I have one on my Saiga, and I actually like it. The fact that the rear attaches to the scope mount means that the rail is rigid along its entire length, and if you mount an Eotech or any kind of Picatinny-mount sights for shooting slugs, your accuracy is limited by the barrel and ammo quality, not a floppy sight mount. You'll want to use a VFG or AFG with it, as it's oddly shaped for gripping directly. It's a free float design, so the only part that gets at all warm is just forward of the barrel trunnion; the rest stays quite cool. It does not block the vent port on the side of the gas block.

Some miscellaneous parts to complete another lightweight .300 Blackout pistol build.

Use a hex wrench small enough to slide freely through pin holes, and assemble the mag catch and spring using the hex wrench instead of the pin. Then drive the pin into place, displacing the hex wrench as you go. It's a lot easier than trying to hold the catch, spring, hammer, punch, and pin simultaneously.

LOL at people who will buy a "vodka special" Saiga as a project gun knowing that it probably has reliability issues (at least with some ammo), but trash Eotech. Yeah they made some defective products, but at least they had the decency to ofer refunds. And not all Eotech sights are bad. I have one on my Saiga, and it doesn't have the temperature POI shift problem, at least not enough to detect in the tests I've done. An Eotech makes a lot of sense as a shotgun sight--use the dot for slugs, and the circle for buckshot & birdshot. Like any other piece of gear, you should test it before trusti

They are cosmetic tactikewl--they make the gun look badass, but don't offer any real benefit to the shooter. If you have a decent forend/handguard you already have a place to grab the gun without burning yourself.

It's the conversion factor needed to convert feet/second^2 and ounces to "drams". If you were using grains or grams or meters/second, you'd need a different conversion factor.

.300 Blackout works well on hogs, so a .458 Socom should be even mo betterer. Hogs have roughly the same visual capabilities as humans, at least regarding the wavelengths they can see. NV + IR will not spook them, especially if using a can.

Can you show an example? I'm apparently applying it incorrectly. Momentum = mass x velocity KE (kinetic energy) = mass x velocity^2 ...and since "drams" originally referred to the volumetric measure of black powder in the cartridge, using the energy equation rather than the momentum equation makes the most sense, because the amount of powder in a cartridge is directly proportional to the energy of the cartridge.

My 8" AR pistol in .300 Blackout. Light and handy enough to carry around, short enough to be handy for HD, and a decent manstopper or deer killer out to 200-300 yards or so. In a SHTF scenario, or if sanity ever prevailed over the NFA, I'd probably replace the Sig brace with a LWRC UCIW ultra-compact stock. It's about an inch shorter than a standard carbine stock when both are fully collapsed.

Had a Norinco MAK-90 that had a nasty trigger slap. Replaced it with a Tapco trigger set and the problem went away.

IF 1.25oz @ 1200FPS = "3 drams", then the correct formula is: 1200 x 1200 x 1.25 / 600,000 = 3 So if the velocity was 1300FPS instead, then you would calculate: 1300 x 1300 x 1.25 / 600,000 = 3.52 drams.