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JonWienke

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Everything posted by JonWienke

  1. If your gun won't cycle with the stock plug in the #2 setting, then changing the gas plug will not help it to cycle more reliably.
  2. Short range is kind of a given, since we're talking about a pistol rather than a rifle. Head to head in a pistol with supersonic loads, .300 Blackout beats .223/556 handily in flat shooting and kinetic energy on target, because .223/5.56 loses so much velocity from short barrels. .300 also gives you a viable subsonic option that is ballistically equivalent to .45ACP. It's fun even if you don't have a can, but of course a can adds to the fun immensely. Factory subsonics tend to be expensive, but you can reload them for about 10-15 cents each. Accuracy is far more a function of barrel qu
  3. This bag also works pretty well for holding 5 mags: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DTL4JE
  4. I tried it out today, and it worked pretty much as I'd hoped. I ran every high brass load from cheap 2.75" Estate buckshot and Winchester and Remington #1 buck to 3" Federal magnums and ejection was between 5 and 12 feet, without changing any settings on the gun. Opening up the exit ports flattens the regulator pressure curve above the set point so that 3" magnums are closer to standard 2.75" shells in cycling/ejection energy. My modified regulator has 8 .165" holes now, 2 in each slot.
  5. None of the above. Go for an 8" .300 Blackout. It's a lot easier to get running reliably than a 5.56 that short, and .300 Blackout loses little velocity going from 16" to 8". Which means it's fun to shoot at the range, but it's actually practical and viable as a HD/SD gun. You don't have the ginormous fireballs and flashbang grenade-level concussion to deal with shooting it. SGAmmo.com has FMJ .300BLK for $0.50/round in cases of 1000, and if you reload, you can roll cast bullet rounds for less than half that. I built an 8" .300 Blackout pistol, and it and my Saiga are my "things that go bu
  6. I use blue loctite on castle nuts also. I've never had one come loose, and it's a lot easier to remove if you decide to change buffer tubes for any reason. Gas port size is one of several factors. Shooting subs without a can isn't pointless--they are pretty quiet even without, especially from a 16" barrel. If you pulled the weights out of a spare buffer, you could probably get your gun to cycle them even without a can.
  7. Some 300BLK guns will run reliably with heavy buffers, but some won't. Cycling reliability is a complex interaction between the pressure curve of the ammo, gas port size and location, the fit between the bolt and carrier, buffer mass, fit between the gas tube and gas key, hammer and action spring strength, magazine, and feed ramp geometry. Running a lighter buffer and an adjustable gas block gives you a much wider envelope to find a sweet spot where the gun cycles reliably with subs without over-cycling with supers. If you buy a complete gun from a reputable manufacturer, the components th
  8. The factory 5-rounders also work better with low brass in guns that don't always cycle them reliably from drums or the large stick mags. Fewer rounds, less friction.
  9. .300BLK wants a lighter-than-normal buffer and a standard-weight action spring. If you put in an H2 or H3 you can pretty much forget about reliable cycling with subsonics, even with pistol gas. I pull all the weights out of my .300BLK buffers, and run an adjustable gas block to prevent over-cycling when shooting supersonics.
  10. I have piston and DI ARs. The DI guns get dirty sooner than the piston guns, but they can still handle 1000+ rounds without cleaning and still function reliably. BTW, have you ever fired a G3? That design shits where it eats even worse than the AR, but that doesn't affect its reliability that much...
  11. And do you have the same douche opinion of .300 Blackout?
  12. Any update on the availability of the updated followers?
  13. These MOLLE pouches fit 5 8-round mags almost perfectly: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019MT52M The only downside is that they weigh 10-11lbs when filled with 5 fully loaded mags.
  14. I'm not super concerned about the recoil compensation aspect of the vent gas, but it did peel some of the paint off the barrel next to the vent holes. Adding additional holes pointing away from the barrel should reduce that. Enlarging the holes isn't going to make the plug start working "earlier"--once the valve is pushed away from the seat by gas pressure, gas can start flowing around it into the spring cavity, regardless of the exact location of the vent holes. The valve seals to the seat at the rear of the regulator, but not to the sides of the spring cavity. My intent is to reduce the
  15. I've bought several of the Guntec handguards I linked off Amazon, and didn't have any fitment or QC issues.
  16. Are you saying a 16" 300 blackout is hearing safe useing subsonic ammo WITHOUT a suppressor? I consider a 22lr rifle to be hearing safe. I wouldn't go quite that far necessarily, but it's a lot less uncomfortable to shoot with than pretty much any other round I've fired without ear protection. I killed a deer last fall with a .300 Blackout, and I fired 4 supersonic Barnes 110gr Vor-TX rounds standing in an open field with no ringing in the ears. I fired a 5th round while kneeling, which did cause some ringing for about a minute. The rifle is a 16" .300BLK with a .30-caliber YHM Phantom
  17. GunFun, I saw your mod, and tried a variation of it. I ran a 1/8 ball mill across the back end to make a second notch about .100" deep. It works, but when I have the screw adjusted to eject low brass about 3-4' in the normal (big notch) setting, some 3" magnums still eject 15-20' with the high (small notch) setting. Another consideration is that in the high setting, the vent gas is bieng directed down when that is the last thing you want recoil-wise. I replicated the factory hole pattern in the 4- and 8-oclock slots, and enlaged all the holes from about .154 to .165". If that shows signs of i
  18. To GunFun, re .300 build: I've done several .300 Blackout builds. I'm holding one in my facebook profile photo, along with a deer I killed with it. Guntec/Desert Strike Handguards: http://www.amazon.com/Ultralight-M-LOK-Mount-Forend-Rifle/dp/B00V2PDXYC/ref=pd_sim_sbs_200_3 Lightweight, rigid, and reasonably priced. Other lengths are available, from 7-16" and you can get m-lok or keymod. Which adjustable gas block? Syrac Ordnance, no question. They are worth every penny of their price. I would definitely go for either nickel boron or else nitride BCG. .300 Blackout is more like 12-
  19. Has anyone tried enlarging the output vent holes (the ones normally at 10 and 2 oclock) to see if that increases the power range of ammo that can be run without over-revving the action? If so, what was the result?
  20. The key phrase being "with the dust cover removed". How is fingerf###ing the safety (or any part of the fire control mechanism) of a loaded, partially disassembled firearm of any design not gross user negligence and stupidity?
  21. On every AK I've ever handled, the dust cover blocks the safety lever from traveling up past the "safe" position as alleged in the lawsuit. How is the safety lever supposedly getting past the dust cover without gratuitously excessive force (i.e. enough to bend the lever or the cover) being applied?
  22. It's not that hard to test whether your sight is defective. Every product ever made has had some units that are defective or fail. Test yours, if it's good, keep it. If not return it. But if it tests good, it's stupid to get rid of it. If you divest yourself of every product that has ever had a bad unit, you couldn't even own rocks.
  23. Or you could drill and tap a hole in the center of the gas puck for a 1/2-20 set screw, and adjust the free travel of the puck that way. You need to have a little bit of a gap between puck and op rod to accommodate fouling, but more than .050" or so is probably a bad thing.
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