whatmanual

For those reloaders out there to consider.... http://www.magtechammunition.com/sitepages...;search=details (google for: Magtech and search the products for brass shells -12 gauge or whatever). Might be an alternative for the steel Russian ones I keep reading about. I'm probably going to buy a reloading kit in the near future, so I was just poking around and found those. Not sure how those would "crimp" (seal up). Probably some sort of end cap like S&B has or something. If I get all that together this month or next, perhaps I'll write a report how they hold up and sto

What? No Zombie plinking meadow?

Yes... started by "He who must not be named". ~S

Welcome to the club. ~S

Funny you mention that... I was just at the gun store yesterday and came across some of those .45 replacement springs (in the baggy types) while looking at other items. Amazingly, they do look very very close to length and strength. I might just take my springs down there buy a couple of them if they're the same size (what the heck -I do that sort of thing) and swap them out to just to check the action. I suspect they would be weaker though. I'll have to compare the S12 spring to that of my RPK and AK74. Those would probably be less expensive alternatives though (+sizing/cutting)

Should go flush *(on mine it does). You probably got a whole boat load of crap all in the threads. Probably wouldnt be surprised if you have damaged threads too (banging in it etc). tip: IF you do manage to get it off and then clean it (considering no damage to the threads), make sure you leave it dry as possible. No, you dont need to keep a layer of CLP on there. In fact, if you do, it will probably just take what would've been residue -and make it cement-like. Currently, after cleaning thoroughly inside the chamber and the cap, I dry it real well -and then apply a light lig

The "gas tube" I think you need a press to remove it...its like permanently on there. One of our local gunsmiths on the forum will know all those details. For the most part, I'd just as well leave it on there (since if I "did" manage to get it off, odds are I would be contacting a gunsmith to get it back on there again). Just clean it the same way you wouldve if you removed it. Dental pick sounds like an interesting tool to have in the kit. Should have the proper angle and everything (or I'll bend it even more). Pipe cleaners would work just as well though. ~S

In an end of the world scenario... which are you more likely to find/trade for? boxes of 12 gauge or .410 ? .22 caliber /.223 / .308 / and 9mm ....vs.... 7mm / 10mm / .38 caliber and so forth. I think you can realize the more common rounds out there and its an investment to have some of those types in your inventory. Of course, much of this is geographic. You might be in a heavy 7.62x39 region. Etc etc. Nothing wrong with a 20 gauge or whatever.... but certainly something to consider when you look at replenishing supplies. Lastly, a simple litmus test. SHTF.

Just a tip... up to you. On my spare S12 I grew tired of jamming that "standard" bristle brush in there and getting that crud our of there. Now for the piston area, I just use a cordless power drill, 12ga. bore brush on a single extension rod, and CLP. Then a good rag. No real hard pressure required (dont want to bend the bristles). Essentially, you're "honing" all that crap if it accumulates. Let the tool to the work. (I prefer stiff plastic bristles instead of brass brush. No scratches and wont bend. Then go back with your "standard" brush and cram it down to poke at the

Easy to find... Walmart even has it I believe... Simple google search: Bore snake http://www.gunaccessories.com/BoreSnake/default.asp tip: "machine" washable can also mean the dishwasher . Less problem with it getting tangled everywhere If your going to use CLP or whatever, place a few squirts around the bristle part of the snake -not the fuzzy part (less mess and works great). ~S

Don't confuse scratched up with "skid marks". Regardless of slugs or not, there's still a "wad" there. Anyway....best tip I have on that is to own a "Bore Snake"....best investment I've made for a barrel cleaning yet. Compare before and after you pull it through there. I think you'll find it shows the truth on what is or isnt scratched. ~S

All those #4 bird shot rounds should have no effect at all when it was set at the "2" position....you'll be fine. Rule of thumb: All buck and slugs = 1 All bird/game/skeet etc = 2 I personally dont use rounds higher than #7 bird.... (that's a "2" setting). Just a personal preference there. Most my "shot" is simply #6 game, or #4 game (Federal is my wally world preference for most cannon-fodder rounds. I regularly have 200+ rounds of Federal 00 buck though and shoot that regularly. Trial and error on the rounds. Each gun seems to have its own appetite on what it likes. There'

Essentially do this: Push in the button and take that end cap ALL THE WAY OFF...... ...look at it.... Position "1" when you annotate it in your hand (picturing how it looks in relation to the gas port) that it allows much LESS gas. So, if your shooting Heavier loads (buck/slugs) then this one is best Position "2" when you annotate it, you will see that its much MORE gas. This one is better for the bird and other game loads....do NOT use this setting for buck and slugs on a continual or "regular" basis for powerful rounds. **If you are lucky, or the weapon breaks in and loosens up

LOL.... my dad sent me this one just now. Had to post it. (he saw my "when the zombies come -what's in you're closet" t-shirts and got a kick out of them). ~S

~S

Personally, I'd proably have more fun with "flare" 12 gauge rounds (IF they have enough to cycle the action on the S12 that is -otherwise oh well). It'd be like a nice roman candle for a signal or whatever (please shoot "up"). ~S

Sounds like perhaps setting "1" (should be on setting "2" for those in most cases -unless really broken in, or you're lucky). Ok...so you took off both parts (that end cap and popped out that piston as well) correct? Check and clean the gas ports to the barrel. Use a good brush for it. I personally leave it as dry as possible after cleaning with CLP. You dont need to be making mud in there that will turn as hard as ceramic. If you can visually inspect and see the ports to be clear, and then you can see the "bristles" poke through slightly into the barrel when you press down into them

Follow-up: As for the Nobel Sport... I'm going to "tune" a couple of my 10 round mags (heck, Ive got quite a few of them) to angle a little higher and retest those rounds more. Whether that means taking a fraction off the back of the mag itself (where the release catches it) -which would mean the mag tilts the angle that fraction it needs. Or I might try to dremmel those inside guides out inside that mag on the sides a bit and "slight" trim to the clip itself to angle more. Those particular rounds impact on the lower part of the breach and "deform" from being slammed forward. If that r

A couple things.... For those that don't know: The magazine is not an impromtu grip. The rear latch when it clicks in allows for a "little" play in there...but it should rest downward against the latch. Bascially, its all about the feed angle, and free movement. The AGP 10 rounders are fine, but you should keep a few things in mind. If you bind a round in that mag, make note of it. Odds are you might have to "tune" it a little. As mentioned elsewhere, its a matter of smoothing those guides inside a little, or perhaps ever so slightly grinding the feed clip angle to allow more

lol but I should correct...I was thinking of my #4 lead or #6 (Federal Game Shock = "game load" and not technically bird). As for any would be intruder even having the ability to get up from several close range shots like that? Well, no need to bother with butt of the shotgun for me (rather keep the gun pointed down range at all times if at all possible anyway). Fringe benefit of Tony's custom Shark Brake of course: don't need a bayonet. Honestly...nobody wants to see ANY sort of round come out of this within the close proximity of a room -let alone buck rounds be

Cheney shot him from 30 yards away...according to the official report that is. Huge difference for bird shot (let alone "pattern" percentage). Also, quoting minimum standards is an injustice if you don't consider the other factors involved....like penetration at a given range. The need things that can go through your car door from across the street with some effectiveness....or do enough damage when it gets there. A .32 caliber 00 shot does this nicely from those sorts of ranges -and at close range it will probably knock an opponent 3 feet back to a suitable spot for dying. Its probably wh

Search the forums here -not google- for that term hehehe ~S

Welcome to the forum Jaak *all in good fun of course* Look forward to seeing the finished conversion. On a side note: The shark brake is kick ass. It not only a door breacher (and semi-bayonet if zombies really insist), but its ported to compensate the muzzle climb, AND if you look at the venting it assists with actually lessening the recoil (has a forward compensation). I own two S12 guns. Compared to a stock barrel, you can notice the difference. Of course, if you want to use chokes...I think Poly Choke is the best out there (from all I've read anyway).

I don't see it either... No "attachment" symbol at the forum title listing either. ~S

By the way.... you CAN change those mounts to the weaver. http://www.kalinkaoptics.com/ Check out the accessories for the Kobra sights. In particular: Weaver Mount Adapter http://www.kalinkaoptics.com/detail.aspx?ID=525 Cheers, ~S