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whatmanual

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Posts posted by whatmanual

  1. I have same issues you originally described with my eyes. I know its probably astigmatism but I'm in denial a little still (43 here). I get the same blur effect with everything you mentioned. I have a Micro T-1 and its blury to me once into the higher brightness settings.  "Crisp" to me is anything night-low-medium, or if I squint for medium-high. Anything above 8 there is a bloom effect to me, but I think its supposed to for the brightest settings for fast close quarter combat, and not used for precision/range things.

  2. If no law restricting it in state or local area for your item, you can always have the ATF make the decision -without signature. But you have to document that you attempted to follow the process.

    For example, the Sheriff in my county doesnt 'believe' people should have suppressors...even though it was perfectly legal in the County/State I was in. Ok then.

    I asked an NFA collector friend and was told.....If the Sheriff won't sign, note the dates/times. Then try local police chief. If denied a signature there as well, make note (dates/times), and send to ATF making notes and cite the laws. The ATF should approve without signature. You still have to do all that fingerprint stuff of course. At the end of the day, law > opinion. Takes longer but that is how I was told the process is supposed to work. Remember, the signature is not liabiilty OR permission.

  3. A) Version 3 Kobra sight (from KalinkaOptics). Takes a CR2 battery and is mounted sideways (less shock) -Rare model. Fast attach lever mount. Complete kit -hard hood, tool, pouch. All 4 reticles of course. Excellent condition. $400 shipped.

    B ) Version 2 Kobra sight. (from KalinkaOptics). Takes the CR2325 battery (I have a few spares) mounted under front glass area.Mount is a thumb screw style. A little wear and tear but works fine (same 4 reticles and adjustment features). Never came with hood, so none with it. $280 shipped. PENDING

    C) Side mount. Modified to slip on from side and forward just in case you have left folding or thick stock. Mounts tight. $30 shipped.

    D) Side mount for Kobra if you dont want the rail mount. Will include only with either Kobra for additional $30. First take. PENDING

    E) Aimpoint T-1 Micro. Original box and what came with it. Mounted a couple times; going different setup. Mint condition $500 shipped.

    F) Ultimak M1-B. Mounted once, fired perhaps 2 mags through it one day. Decided different setup. Cleaned and essentially still new. $90 shipped

     

    PP ok.

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  4. Both are complete (I original boxes somewhere). Both have spare batteries in the pouches

     

    A) Its a rarer later generation Version 3 Kobra sight (got from KalinkaOptics years ago). Takes a CR2 battery and is mounted sideways (less shock).

    Fast attach lever mount. Has all 4 of the reticles and also the hard hood, and tool in pouch

    $450 shipped.

     

    B ) This is a version 2 Kobra sight. (also from Kalinka). Takes the CR2325 battery (I have a few spares) mounted under front glass area.

    This has a thumb screw style mount on it. A little wear and tear but works flawless (same 4 reticles and adjustment features).

    $350 shipped.

     

    C) Side mount. Modified to slip on from side and slip forward just in case you have left folding or thick stock. $40 shipped.

     

    PP preferred.

     

    (edit: lower price)

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  5. Don't take it as gospel but here it goes (I'm sure others will add/correct me).

     

     

    1st, make absolutely sure its legal in the jurisdiction you're moving to. You cannot exactly take your full auto to California I think.

     

    2nd, make absolutely sure you have a SECURE chest/safe/case that is rock solid and absolutely nobody other than you has access to it. A SAFE is your best bet. Again, NOBODY can have access to it except you. I "believe" that if they have a safe, and you store it inside and its LOCKED UP in a case where they cannot access it, that is ok too. Must be zero chance for someone to "check it out" while you're at work etc.

     

    3rd. Form 5320.20 I believe. Its a simple form and you fill it out for traveling outside of state lines. Normally used when you want to go to a shooting event and its out of state (in-state = no need of course). The form though is also used for "permanent" change of address. My experience on this is the form comes back real fast. Its merely an acknowledgement from them. I think I sent mine out on a Monday and had it back before the Friday when I moved into my house. Real simple form. This must be returned and in your hand before the move. I'd also keep a copy of it for any future range sessions (since your original form will have an old address, they might ask for the 5320.20).

     

     

    Repeat when you move again.

  6. Which brand of ammo do you prefer?

     

    7N6.

     

    I found out yesterday that the commercial 5.45 ammo does not have the so-called "steel penetrator" that causes the rapid tumbling in flesh. (They have the air pocket, but not the steel penetrator, or so it seems). The bullet will still tumble, just not as quickly. Consequently, it will be less lethal.

     

    In addition, the 7N6 is cheap, and I've been able to get very good groups from it at the range. You just have to make sure to clean the gun after using it, but it's no big deal.

     

     

    It will still tumble just fine. Maybe even better since most non-surplus ammo is a higher grain. The big question is if it has an air pocket on the tip or not. If it has the pocket when it hits it will crush/deform and cause the tumble...hence the design. With the steel penetrator the crush/deform is more immediate and, by virtue of the impact, damages that area for the penetrator to essentially plow into (think, penetrator hitting the chink in the armor from the impact). Something that crushes into a mini "L" when it hits will tumble pretty good -with or without a penetrator.

     

    You'd have to check each brand of non-corrosive though. There's probably cross section pics out there. Not sure if all of them retain the pocket if they are straight lead core. At least its a higher grain. For me though, surplus is what I will stick with. Keeps things consistent for me.

     

    Just my 2 cents.

     

    ~S

  7. The only reason I ask is because of the price. So without a doubt, you recommend the SGL20. Okay. That's what my wife says also. I just feel strange paying 850.00 for an AK with a non milled receiver. But if you guys say it's worth it, then I'll get one.

     

    Simple...

     

     

    Hold out your left hand.

     

    Now hold out your right.

     

     

     

    ....THAT'S ALL YOU GOT!

     

    What do you want to have in your hands if it's really on the line? (or hit the hills/mad max/insert whatever reasoning here).

    I have plenty of stuff in the safe. Plenty of things to go have fun with. But I also have particular "go to" items.

    Just like some people would have various types of hand guns in the safe, but a particular reliable and effective gun for conceal carry, there's a difference.

  8. If I recall from my previous research (please don't hold it against me), the IR sight is like a filter. This one only appears to be a lit reticle version.

    Also, the finish is very dark. This could be a "Belarus" or something. If I recall on those, they are the ones they get exported when they don't meet the milspec standards over there. Blemishes or flaws etc. Well, something like that...just generally lesser quality.

     

     

    Normally the fastest way to identify an "IR filter" PSO scope is the switch.

    Research the Dragunov rifles. Some people sell them with the "original scope" and some do not.

    You can spot them from a special switch (noted in the updated pic).

     

    I'll try to find the article on it I had a while back and post it here for you.

     

     

    Here... http://www.dragunov.net/pso.html

    Look down for the PSO-1 and see the switch Im talking about. It goes into some detail with how it works with pics.

    (note the color of the finish too).

     

     

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