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About dagast2

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  • Birthday 08/20/1982

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  1. Not deeply enough I guess. I'll go take a kook and get back to you ; ) Thanks man!
  2. Hey guys, In the next few weeks I'm going to be taking possession of an S12 and I'm a little leery on buying any 10 round AGP mags for it from reading some of the forum posts here. Does anyone have any links (I tried the forum search feature, no luck) or info on the modifications that AGP mags need to work properly? I've got a dremel etc, and have done my own conversion on a .223 saiga so I'm reaching a level of near handiness with tools. Is this something that can be fixed by grinding and patience or does it require more serious work? Lemme know, thanks as usual!
  3. I ordered one and ended up sending it back without even putting it on the gun. The stock is super high quality and feels very good, but I've read that it leave the balance of the gun feeling a little strange. In addition, it's illegal to put it on a gun without converting the gun first due to 922r compliance laws.
  4. I would recommend a full conversion to US parts, pistol grip, etc. Anyone with average mechanical/engineering common sense can muddle through it given time and patience. I would imagine that a gunsmith would charge upwards of 150$ in addition to part cost for this type of conversion, or you can do it yourself over the weekend. Without taking a look at the folding stock/pistol grip on the main site, I can tell you that any aftermarket parts you change out on the gun make it illegal without a conversion. I don't have any experience with the other parts you asked about. I doubt there is any legal way to do full auto with a saiga if you are speaking of doing so mechanically, and I believe it may even be illegal to ask about on forums so I'll assume your question is poorly worded and guess that you're asking about a technique called "bump firing". I'm not gonna give you any pointers on bump firing, but feel free to look it up yourself.
  5. From looking at the forums and further research on the net, it seems like 10 round mags for the .410 are ultra-rare. Is there any seller that has a consistent supply? How often does rusmilitary.com get new shipments? Does anyone know if AGP or any other mag maker have plans on creating US made cheaper 10 rounders? Thanks guys!
  6. I just finished my own conversion of a .223 to US parts/pistol grip etc. How similar is this process for the S12? Do they both use all the same parts (I used a tapco G2 FCG)
  7. I broke it all back down for the ninth time in the last few days and took that bolt/nut out and replaced it with a tiny rivet. It may not be permanent, but if the trigger guard doesn't wiggle right now that's all I care about : )
  8. I've got an even better one than the backwards hammer (well, maybe not, thats hard to beat.) Apparently a bolt that I put underneath the mag release is preventing the mags from...releasing. And I obviously discovered this by putting in a mag and failing to remove it. Any suggestions?
  9. Looks like I spoke too soon. I guess guns work better when the hammer is not installed backwards. Guess how happy I am right now?????
  10. Maybe not hour 999, but it kinda feels like it. I'll discuss some other day, but for now I just have one question that I think I know the answer of buy my fried brain insists I ask first just to be safe. My K-var stock fits great in my gun but does not have any screw holes to insert the stock screws from my original buttstock. Should I drill some holes, or leave the stock virgin and assume that friction will keep it in?
  11. OK, So I've got my gun all taken apart. I refit the trigger guard and got it installed. Getting a screw/nut tightened inside the magazine release was a royal pain in the ass, but I finally managed. I realized it would be alot easier if I could tighten the nut onto the screw without the guard in the way, so I slotted the front of the guard, mostly tightened the screw, slipped the guard in, and finished tightening. It should do the job since it's bolted in the rear as well, and there is alot of tension pushing it against the bolt in front and the mag release. Now I'm kinda stuck since I ordered my grip nut and screw from KVAR, and they are taking their sweet ass russian time about shipping it, so I figured I'd ask some questions about the Tapco G2 trigger group install. It seems like just by dropping it in, the trigger will not work. I got a double hook, but by the looks of it even a single hook requires some modification to the trigger/receiver to allow for trigger pull. Does anyone have any tips or pictures they can share before I bust out my dremel and saw my receiver in half trying to get the trigger to fit? : )
  12. Right on brother, all the holes are already there! I guess I'm closer to being done then I thought. It's been a serious learning experience, I think I could do it again MUCH faster, which is what most people say. Thanks to all who post here for the info, support and fun so far!
  13. So go rivet the girlfriend quickly and get back to the important stuff! Guido2 in Houston Done! Yeah, so anyway, I'm following the popular saiga conversion guide that hosted at cross-conn I believe. By reading it sounds like I will soon have to cut a square hole for the pistol grip nut. Is this step at all difficult or does it pretty much just come down to taking some measurements and cutting a more or less square hole?
  14. I'm on about hour 5-6 of my conversion and I'm still in the taking it apart phases. Although, I'm not mechanically inclined and I've improvised some tools etc, it's going fairly well. I started out very strong, drilling out the first two rivets quickly. The safety didn't seem like it could come out before the nearby pin, so I played around with those parts for a bit and finally got them all out. The pin keeping the hammer/spring in gave me HUGE DIFFICULTIES! This one was really frustrating, but mostly because I wasn't thinking about it hard enough. I eventually ended up using a nail or something to brace the hammer/spring down into a cocked position, this seemed to relieve a lot of the tension on the bar which was making it hard to slide out. Moving onto the trigger guard and those rivets- The trigger guard spot weld I drilled slightly off, and I'm a little worried because the trigger guard metal is very thin on one side but hopefully it will work, because from what I've read a new trigger guard is not easy. I also drilled out the trigger guard / trigger plate back rivet to get the trigger guard free. I used an angle grinder to flatten the head of the rivet, then a center punch to center the drill. Drilling out this back rivet may have killed my bit, it is slaying alot less metal then it was brand new. I drilled the rivet down until the trigger guard started to wiggle, then I wiggled the guard until the rivet started to break free, allowing me to see exactly where the rivet was. After the guard came off I ground the rest of the rivet down and punched it on through. At this point my girlfriend got pissed at me for not hanging out with her over the weekend and I had to stop : ) So I've got two of the tough rivets left, and then I move on to putting it back together again!
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