L9X25

The biggest potential problem would likely be cutting the slot in the bottom of the receiver, if it is not already there. Otherwise, the BHO mounts on the hammer pin and the spring rides on the sear pin.

I used the G2 and it reduced the trigger travel significantly and reduced the pull from 6lbs to 2.5lbs. It required that I cut one additional small slot to accommodate the double hook but that is simple compared to the other steps required to convert the gun. The Tapco FCG parts fit perfectly and the only modification necessary was to clear the factory BHO. I could have left out the BHO and the parts would not have required any modification to install. For the stock I chose the Tapco M-4 retractible stock and it works fine but fits together loosely and rattles, it has a "cheap" feel.

An update on my conversion project to keep the 20ga section from dying completely. Thanks to Cobra and Dinzag I was able to convert the gun myself and get it back together and have it function perfectly on the first try. The bolt functions much smoother with the Tapco hammer (unmodified) and that seemed to make it more reliable with the Winchester promo 7/8oz loads. I also found that the gas block was not straight from the factory and was causing a slight bind between the gas tube and the op-rod. I aligned them a little better and the bolt seems to close a little smoother. The gu

I have only had 2 triggers, the stock single hook Saiga and the Tapco G2 double hook trigger, so keep that in mind. My saiga trigger was 6 lbs and had the longest tavel of anything that I have shot. This is likely (at least partially) due to the additional parts included to relocate the trigger farther back for the import legal version. When I converted with the Tapco G2, the trigger pull is now 2.5 lbs and the pull and reset are both very short. Frankly, the trigger is magnificent compared to the stock unit. I did not polish anything and merely oiled the parts and dropped them in.

Thanks a ton JG! I searched and searched but could not find that post. All of the conversion posts that I found did not mention the BHO or the spring. I really was careful and even took a few pictures on the inside before I pulled the pins out but the BHO spring is completely hidden by the BHO and did not show up in any of the pics. Finally, I can put this puppy to bed. A few comments, my bolt is MUCH smoother cycling with the Tapco double hook set-up, compared to the stock items. The trigger pull went from 6lbs stock to 2.5 with the Tapco. The trigger travel is reduced dra

I almost finished the conversion and realized that I had the bolt hold open spring left over and cannot see where it goes. Does is go on the hammer pin or one of the rear pins that are basically unused after the conversion. If anybody knows where there is a diagram that shows this it would be wonderful. Thanks

Thanks, I found his post and will use his measurements, I only want to do this once. Leo

Pretty disappointed in my progress toward getting this S-20 to run on the Winchester promo loads. I previously reported that it had gotten about 80-90% reliable after shooting a few boxes through the gun and I felt that I was sooo close to being 100%. I replaced the recoil spring with a much lighter spring and it had NO effect. It is still intermittantly stove piping (FTE). Put a few more boxes through the gun and feel as if I was losing ground since it was becoming less reliable as I continued shooting. It seems obvious that I am not going to get it totally reliable without enlarging

My understanding is that RAA is the importer and they ship to the distributors which then ship to the dealers. There are so many standing orders that, as the guns arrive, they are shipped to the distributors and then to the actual dealers that have the standing orders. Neither RAA or the distributors have any inventory since there are so many pre-ordered by dealers. My dealer always has a standing order for several (he knows that he can sell them immediately once they are in-stock) and I purchased mine from the last batch that arrived.

Not sure you can do it for $150 but the C-more is not that far off. I use them on 9x25 Open pistols and they last for years. I would expect that they would tolerate what a Saiga can dish out pretty easily.

Admittedly, I am a cheapskate, but I have been feeding my 1100 the Winchester bulkpack shells for years and it has always functioned 100% with them. So far, the only problem that the Saiga has had with them is that they do not always have enough power to completely cycle the action and stovepipe jams can result. The feeding has been 100% with proper magazines.

I think that a large portion of the problems that survive break-in are caused by folks that are using the stock 10 round mags with 2 3/4" shells. All of the 10 rounds mags, that I am aware of, are made for 3" shells and usually require modification to work reliably with 2 3/4" shells. Mine has fed 100% when using the correct mag for the shells. My only problem was "stovepipes" on the promo ammo while breaking in. I only have 50 rounds through the gun and it is almost 100% on ejection.

Yellow, Mine is about the same as yours with the Promo Winchester and Federal stuff that they sell at Walmart. We have 2 alternatives to solve the problem completely: 1 Experiment with reduced power recoil springs (they are identical to a 1911 Government model 16# recoil spring); 2 Increase the port sizes drilled into the barrel gradually until the gun functions. Since the recoil spring modification is easiest to do, and easy to reverse, I chose this method to try first. I replaced one of the recoil springs with a 12# 1911 spring and intend to try it this weekend and wi

It also matters who you talk to. I spoke to a guy at Poly-Choke about a month ago and he claimed that they were 30-45 days out. I e-mailed them a few days ago and received the "late this Summer" comment. While I hate to waste money, I may have to order the Mod choke from Oleg and then upgrade to the Poly when they finally come out.

Bud, When you purchase a new Saiga 20, it comes with a 5 round magazine for 2 3/4" shells and a 5 round magazine for 3" shells. All of the larger capacity factory magazines (that I am aware of) a designed for 3" shells. Since many folks want 10 round magazines, that are only available for 3" shells, and choose to run the less expensive 2 3/4" shells, the wedges are necessary to make the 3" magazines function reliably with 2 3/4" shells. Once broken in, the shotgun should work properly if used with the correct magazines for the shells. I intend to use mine exclusivel