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vjor

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About vjor

  • Rank
    DEUS EX MACHINA
  • Birthday 02/17/1966

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    Male
  • Location
    Florida

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  1. I use plates that I made to take FSB and GB off and another set of plates to install them with out bending the receiver on a 12 ton press. Plus a laser line or small cord to aling the parts on the gun. The hard part is not much taking the FSB or GB off as to install the parts back with out doing any bending on the receiver of the gun that is why I made my plates to avoid fubar the gun in any way. As pressing stuff back is not that easy as all the pressure have to be on the barrel with out putting any on the receiver. As you don't want to bend receiver or barrel as you press away. Good luck.
  2. vjor

    My Russian Princess

    Nice, Really nice.
  3. Brother , irons I do the old fashion way, bags of sand, first target at 25 meters, see if rounds are all on target and adjust the front until all rounds are were I want them and then move the target to 100 meters , you may need some optics to see were you hitting at 100 meters. One trick on targets I cover my cardboard on white paper and on top install my targets at long ranges you can see better were the holes are on the cardboard if you missing the target and use the shoot and see targets to help me see were rounds are.
  4. Of all the bore sights I have use , from ones that look like a round to magnetic the best will be LaserLyte Kryptonyte Green Laser Boresighter 22 to 75 Caliber.
  5. You guys want to really smooth the trigger pull and rust proof the FCG on one shot ? Plus extending life of for ever on the parts?
  6. vjor

    Ultimak heat & optics

    To this day I have never see a red dot cook on a ultimak and I have heat the barrels on the .223 and 7.62x39 to bacon cooking crisp. The PK-01 on both the .223 and 7.62x39 still there even if they have been abuse from heat to been under water.
  7. vjor

    more .223 magazine woes

    I had the same thought last night about the 35 rounders. I think wobble could be reduced by adding a little bit of material toward the front in the top half-inch or so. And very little wobble has to be done away with to make them fully reliable, judging by the Orlites, and by the one steel mag that I can't induce a malfunction in by trying. By the way, how is feeding in your 50 rounders? Do they normally work reliably? Rather than make modifications to each & every mag, why not look at the receiver? Most Saiga receivers come without the 'dimples,' which are there to limit side-to-side motion of the magazine (IIRC). If your receiver doesn't have the 'dimples,' why not try adding a little aluminum pad to the inside of the receiver on each side of the mag well? Try epoxy at first to see if it works for you, and something more permanent if you're worried about the pads coming loose (assuming they work). I thought about it early on (my .223 does not have the 'dimples'), but the way I built it has my Galil Orlites locked in rock solid, so I never needed to experiment. No 'dimples' needed on mine... Same opinion of bad bob, I use galil orlites must of the time and they fit really tight on the mag well, as I open the well to fit the orlites with out any mods to the mags, on the other hand I use galil steel mags too and silver solder 2 small plates on each side of the well as no dimples on my guns. no wobble on the steel galil orlites. And yes 35 round steel galil and 12 rounders work on my guns.
  8. If is new yea, I have seen used ones for 750 to 900 and you don't even know if they have gazillion rounds true it. One thing they like 55 grain bullets and get good Ar15 mags for it if you get the gun. I guy I know has one and every year takes it to the range and well I have the pleasure to shoot it few times and look inside and they are built good the only bad thing is not imported any more
  9. vjor

    Duracoat

    Duracoat all the gun, minus bolt and piston, plug barrel and gas block. As same as blast all the gun minus piston and bolt, plug you barrel and gas block . One think I leave alone is FCG no paint on it and polish the ear of hammer and under the trigger claw to a mirror finish or chrome looking finish. Use rubber or cork plugs.
  10. Best of both worlds ar15 and akm. You can use ar15 FCG and for other parts look here <Link Removed> plus ace have a adapter to install any butt stock on it if you have tumhole stock on the gun. Just make sure if you get one is not wore out with a gazillion rounds true the gun. They are not imported that I know any more for a long time.
  11. vjor

    Recoil Reduction

    The man is right. I have play with a lot of muzzle brakes and some work and some don't. One thing the more working pressures you have on a gun the better the brake will work if you get a brake that works. But the gun will be loud as hell and people next to you will get a nice blast. On the other hand a good mercury tube can work good too, That is if you have a place to install it on the butt stock. Or install a recoil pad that will help you. You can try all 3 or any too see how things work. Yes installing more weight cant work, but how much and can you handle a gun that weights a ton.
  12. vjor

    Nobody told me the saiga would be so...

    I see a problem, is never enough ammo, you go and pop 100, rounds and them you go and pop 200 and the more and more and never enough. Congrats on you addiction to saiga.
  13. vjor

    Picture Post,lets see your 7.62x39

    I really like it, simple and functional. Looking good
  14. vjor

    Tantal muzzle brake on a 7.62x39 rifle?

    Years ago the ak builder used to sale tantal copies for the 7.62x39 you can call him and see if he still have some around.
  15. vjor

    A+ for vjor

    No Brother, Thank you. And about the money, the shipping was cheaper and well always been honest about what things cost and a buck is a buck and you work hard for it as we all do for hour money well I send you the change back of the cost of shipping just been honest. Any way thank you for your business. Carlo.
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