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I use plates that I made to take FSB and GB off and another set of plates to install them with out bending the receiver on a 12 ton press. Plus a laser line or small cord to aling the parts on the gun. The hard part is not much taking the FSB or GB off as to install the parts back with out doing any bending on the receiver of the gun that is why I made my plates to avoid fubar the gun in any way. As pressing stuff back is not that easy as all the pressure have to be on the barrel with out putting any on the receiver. As you don't want to bend receiver or barrel as you

Nice, Really nice.

Brother , irons I do the old fashion way, bags of sand, first target at 25 meters, see if rounds are all on target and adjust the front until all rounds are were I want them and then move the target to 100 meters , you may need some optics to see were you hitting at 100 meters. One trick on targets I cover my cardboard on white paper and on top install my targets at long ranges you can see better were the holes are on the cardboard if you missing the target and use the shoot and see targets to help me see were rounds are.

Of all the bore sights I have use , from ones that look like a round to magnetic the best will be LaserLyte Kryptonyte Green Laser Boresighter 22 to 75 Caliber.

You guys want to really smooth the trigger pull and rust proof the FCG on one shot ? Plus extending life of for ever on the parts?

To this day I have never see a red dot cook on a ultimak and I have heat the barrels on the .223 and 7.62x39 to bacon cooking crisp. The PK-01 on both the .223 and 7.62x39 still there even if they have been abuse from heat to been under water.

I had the same thought last night about the 35 rounders. I think wobble could be reduced by adding a little bit of material toward the front in the top half-inch or so. And very little wobble has to be done away with to make them fully reliable, judging by the Orlites, and by the one steel mag that I can't induce a malfunction in by trying. By the way, how is feeding in your 50 rounders? Do they normally work reliably? Rather than make modifications to each & every mag, why not look at the receiver? Most Saiga receivers come without the 'dimples,' which are there to limit side-t

If is new yea, I have seen used ones for 750 to 900 and you don't even know if they have gazillion rounds true it. One thing they like 55 grain bullets and get good Ar15 mags for it if you get the gun. I guy I know has one and every year takes it to the range and well I have the pleasure to shoot it few times and look inside and they are built good the only bad thing is not imported any more

Duracoat all the gun, minus bolt and piston, plug barrel and gas block. As same as blast all the gun minus piston and bolt, plug you barrel and gas block . One think I leave alone is FCG no paint on it and polish the ear of hammer and under the trigger claw to a mirror finish or chrome looking finish. Use rubber or cork plugs.

Best of both worlds ar15 and akm. You can use ar15 FCG and for other parts look here <Link Removed> plus ace have a adapter to install any butt stock on it if you have tumhole stock on the gun. Just make sure if you get one is not wore out with a gazillion rounds true the gun. They are not imported that I know any more for a long time.

The man is right. I have play with a lot of muzzle brakes and some work and some don't. One thing the more working pressures you have on a gun the better the brake will work if you get a brake that works. But the gun will be loud as hell and people next to you will get a nice blast. On the other hand a good mercury tube can work good too, That is if you have a place to install it on the butt stock. Or install a recoil pad that will help you. You can try all 3 or any too see how things work. Yes installing more weight cant work, but how much and can you handle a gun that w

I see a problem, is never enough ammo, you go and pop 100, rounds and them you go and pop 200 and the more and more and never enough. Congrats on you addiction to saiga.

I really like it, simple and functional. Looking good

Years ago the ak builder used to sale tantal copies for the 7.62x39 you can call him and see if he still have some around.

No Brother, Thank you. And about the money, the shipping was cheaper and well always been honest about what things cost and a buck is a buck and you work hard for it as we all do for hour money well I send you the change back of the cost of shipping just been honest. Any way thank you for your business. Carlo.

You guys suck, I mean the guys that post the pics of the FAL, yea now I want one and have wanted one for a long time but cant do right now , nice guns guys. Yea the FAL they are good, they are bad , they are what ever you want to make them. I don't know I love the AK rifles but don't take me wrong I love Fal's too. Do they work , yes they do and do it right. Yea the Israeli military change the Fals for galils and the galils for M16, but the change from galil to M16 have to be more cause when the USA give military help to Israel the money lent have to be spend in weapons made i

I was looking into the hood front sight that ace sale and make it work on the existhing GB on the rifle no the pretties but can be reworked to look good if you put some work into it. As if you sit down and think stuff can happen as I have learn things can always be done one way or another. Damn I just find out that Krebs is making the SFGB again like the one on my .223 but I dont think is enough meat on the walls of the SFGB to ream it to fit the barrel of the .308 .

WOW that is nice and great work. Man you did a really god job on that gun , you should be proud of what you did as no to many can do stuff like that. Great looking gun .

That loos soo nice! What gas bloc/front sight is that? Hey brother sorry I dont saw you post and question, the one on the left the .223 is a Krebs FSGB that he used to made but dont it made any more the one on the right the 7.62x39 is a bulgarian FSBG combination used to be sold by k-var FSBG the threads were machine out by Dinzag same as the index sleeves on both guns.

Cool beans , really looks good to the bone .

Cool beans. Oh wait, you haven't see nothing yet, wait until you do some work on the gun, like installing a pistol grip and moving the trigger were it supposed to be and polish the inside of the claw on the trigger and the ear on the hammer and make them smooth as silk and you really will find your self loving the gun even more or if you unlucky you kids loving it even more and dad gun becomes the favor flavor and dad cant even use it cause the kids use it all the time. Any way Big congratulations on your new gun and enjoy it any way you like it.

Yup , same here used to be like that, but now since I got diabetes I dont procastinate things any more I do the do and if something is wrong I say, wring it on instead of trying to avoid stuff.

Guys I wish you the best of the best and really is not much I can say must than hope things go better and better for you guys and like some one told me long ago never say die and fight the good fight to the least even if the odds are 99 to 1 against you never give up.

Thanks man, I wish I could but looking for work right now. but one thing I will say, is really not hard to get a gun looking nice in a way. I have see a Saiga done really good with minimal work. The guy use the ace front side hood that installs on the gas block and use the saiga regular front hand guard, he send the hand guard to be drill on the front like that it will accommodate the screws from the easy ACE hood plus he remove the front sight block thread the barrel to accommodate a barrel nut and a flash hider, plus install a pistol grip were supposed to go and install a NAT

Well bro I have a blasting box that I use aluminum oxide but the gun on it took a crap and on this gun I use a pressure blaster that I got cheap ( 20 pounds pressure blaster) got play sand and let it dry for a while before use it as I have like 3 bags of 50 pounds drying in 5 gallon buckets as I was doing some machetes and knifes with cold bluing I have people told me that you cant get a good job done with cold bluing, well if you sand blast a carbon steel part and degrease good the cold bluing like oxpho-blue will give you a really good finish , a rich deep black that look reall