Buzz

Practice makes perfect. One would hope. My only regret is that it took me thirty years to find something better to do. Come to think of it, it was only 27, so that is better. BTW, does anyone recall whether the Surefire modified Weigers were reliable?

Thanks. I've heard it both ways. That's one of the problems. The thing is that rounds from a Weiger hand cycle smoothly into my S223. The bullet height in relation to the chamber seems to be about ideal. I suppose actual fire cycling could be different. You're basing your theory on one magazine? Get the bullet guide. It'll save you some heartache. I have no theory. My comment about hand cycling was merely an observation based what I have seen with my three mags. I also checked my records and these are Weigers that were modified by Surefire. AHA. They'

Thanks. I've heard it both ways. That's one of the problems. The thing is that rounds from a Weiger hand cycle smoothly into my S223. The bullet height in relation to the chamber seems to be about ideal. I suppose actual fire cycling could be different. You're basing your theory on one magazine? Get the bullet guide. It'll save you some heartache. I have no theory. My comment was only an observation based upon what I have seen with my three mags. BTW, I checked my records and the Weigers were modified by Surefire. I understand about the desirabilit

Thanks. I've heard it both ways. That's one of the problems. The thing is that rounds from a Weiger hand cycle smoothly into my S223. The bullet height in relation to the chamber seems to be about ideal. I suppose actual fire cycling could be different.

Thanks. My own search on this question turned up that thread, and while useful in terms of the 223 mag options, it does not answer my inquiry whether a bullet guide is necessary for Weiger mag use in my S223 (which does not have a bullet guide). I've researched this issue and have never seen a clearcut definitive answer to the question. Yeah or neah?

To use Weiger mags in my S223 is it necessary to have a bullet guide?

Dang, the Ruskies invaded Georgia? I'd best grab my shooting iron. Heck, I haven't heard a single shot all day or seen a single tank. Must be down state.

BTW, as it turns out CLP will only remove an extremely light hazing of paint (barely any on a white rag) and the look of the paint surface is unmarred. With as many coats of paint as I have on the covers they should be good for years at which time I'll re-coat them with Alumahyde. I woudn't use the Duplicolor on anything else other than the receiver covers as I'd want as permanent a finish as possible, and it will be impossible to avoid getting more caustic chemicals on other parts of the rifle.

Thanks for the suggestions. If the Duplicolor doesn't work out I'll strip it and go with the Alumahyde II. An epoxy base is a good start. I've let the Duplicolor painted Romanian covers sit and cure for a good while so I'll try wiping them with gun oil. I'm not so concerned with solvents as when I clean an AK the first thing that happens is that the receiver cover comes off. If regular lubricants messes witht he finish, or when I go to refinish, I'll go with the Brownell's. For now I'll see how "oil-resistant" the engine block enamel is. BTW, Saigas look great with the ribbed cov

Just as an FYI, I went ahead and picked up some Low Gloss Black 500 DupliColor Ceramic Engine Enamel and applied it to the two Romanian receiver covers. I'm very impressed. It covered beautifully and I'm happy with the amount of gloss, which is very low. As the Engine Enamel is gasoline and oil resistant I think that it might fit the bill. I'll be happy if I can wipe the rifle down with a silicone cloth and not disturb the finish. The receiver cover comes off anyway before any cleaning is done, so rough chemicals shouldn't be an issue. I'll follow the five day cure time before putting th

Found this (thanks Cobra 76) and it sounds good: 500* DupliColor Ceramic Engine Enamel.

Does anyone know what kind of paint IZHMASH uses to paint the Saigas? I prefer the ribbed receiver covers over the smooth Saiga's, and just picked up some ribbed Romanian covers that need refinishing. I much prefer the ribbed covers, and the Romanina covers are a perfect fit on the .223 and .308, and I would assume the 7.62x39. Right now I have them painted with a flat black Rustoleum high temp paint, but I would like something for them that is more chemical resistant. I know that a Molycoat or Duracoat would work, but is there something more readily available at the local big box?

It isn't ll that difficult although I didn't do any venting. I used a Dremel. All you need to do is watch out for the metal towards the front. If I recall correctly I used a magnet to figure out where it was.

Yup, that's what I always do with a de-cocker. You can also put in a fresh snap cap and see if there is a strike to the primer. The de-cocker works.

While we are on the topic of the CZ-52 safety, does anyone know whether there is a way to permanently de-activate the de-cocker while retaining the use of the safety and firing pin block? BTW, here is a photo of my "new" CZ-52: