wooofad

thanks guys for the replies. I did install a 7.62 brake on my .223 through dinzag, but I am looking for something more effective. I will probably call up one of those companies listed and see if they can do anything. As an aside, I participated in a carbine comp last weekend. Some of the AR guys let me shoot their guns, and wow, they had virtually no recoil or muzzle rise. IT was rediculous. They had brakes from JP enterprises & triangle shooting sports.

does anyone know of a .223 brake that will fit this thing? I have already threaded the barrel for 15x1. IF there is nothing available, who can make a custom one?

OMG...I just did this for the first time....what a PAIN in the A$$

I have a bunch of target loads (2 3/4 dram, 3 dram) laying around. 7 lead shot. Are these ok?

Nice Job. This site really should be endorsed by dremel.

Thats great! Thanks for the prompt response. My move will likely come in August '08, so I am not quite ready with any specific questions, but your post has quelled some of my fears. It looks like there are fun times to look forward to.

Hello everyone. I already have an x39 and a .223....and I recently ordered a S12 (it was only a matter of time). I am considering to move to nothern VA. How gun friendly is this area? I read another post on some gun laws about shotguns with folding stocks and drums which may affect the S12. In particular, I am interested in participating in IDPA, USPSA and 3gun matches. Are there places to go for these type of events? What do ya'll think?

My bolt doenst feel spring loaded. But I have a .223 and the firing pin is clearly spring loaded. If so, what can i do? can this lead to slam fires? It makes me concerned, because a round could go off if dropped or something.

For some reason my kobra red dot site wont turn itself off, even if I turn the on/off knob back and forth. Very annoying! Not to mention that It wouldnt dial in low enough. Any suggestions!?!?!

They are fun to change out. You have to hold the spring in place while you replace the pin. This takes two people or 3 hands. The pin is just peened in place, it can be driven out with a punch. When you're done swapping, just knock it back in and repeen it. What is the best way to do this?

I have both a .223 and a x39. If I switch the mag catches, it would work out perfect. The wrong mags fit perfectly in the wrong guns. How would I go about Switching the mag catches????? Pop rivet?

Still needs a refinish & someone to weld those holes!

that's key.. and vjor got all the offical stuff outta the way so.. so you guys use bore cleaner on everything? I use it on the barrel, bolt and the end of the gas rod, even though I cant get the gas rod spotless. I use rem oil on everything else...is that a mistake?

http://www.cross-conn.com/Saiga_Conversion/ this site shows you how, all you need is a drill with cobalt drill bits. The site shows how to convert a .223, the .308 is easier becasue it doest have any rivets holding in the trigger.

thanks, I called up the shop and they suggested the standard trigger. looks like either one will work.

Im assuming its the one that says 7.62 ak, but I just want to be sure. Thanks in advance!

what is the size of that group & what sights were you using?

It is supposed to be a 1 MOA dot, I think.

I went to the range today to test out my .223 (new conversion). At 50 yards with a bushnell holosight (same as eotech n-cell) I got about a 2 inch group with monarch .223 from academy (cheap stuff). Is this an acceptable grouping? I didnt really get any consistent groups at 100 yards because I was adjusting...I will need to try again some other time. If I had to guess, my groups would be about 4in-7in at that range. What kindof groups are acceptable at 100 yd with monarch ammo? I will need to get a scope on this rifle to see if I am really aiming in the same place at 100 yd. Th

Thats ultimately what I ended up doing. I think you are right in that I just needed to take some off the top. I didnt mess with the hammer, and I dont anticipate doing so unless I see some undue wear. I think im gonna add a buffer, which should shorten the cycle enough to reduce serious wear.

Here are some pics of the .308 bolt and a .223 bolt. The top one is the .308. You can see the "notch" im talking about, whereas the .223 is just flat on the bottom. That notch was adding extra resistence due to depression on the rsa hammer at the very end of the cycle. (but now im ok with it) Also, you can see the place i ground the trigger down on the RSA trigger because that same notch was catching there as it was going to the rear of the gun. This is the original problem I had. I dont see how one can get the gun to function properly without this grinding.

Which RSA trigger group did you use? I used the one for the VEPR .308 & have had no problems with it (I've got an s-308)... Can you post pics? I just went shooting today with Monarch ammo and the gun shot fine. I made the right choice by buying this gun and converting it. The recoil is very controllable and accuracy was good with iron sights. I will post some pics by the end of the week to show everyone what im talking about. I did grind the trigger, and now it works fine. Frankly I dont know how people get it to work without grinding the trigger. Eventually I might gri

i just shot some Monarch from Academy, got decent accuracy and no jams. And it only costs 7-8 dollars per box of 20! fun stuff

Unfortunately I tried messing with the screws and it did not change the situation. It looks like the bolt carrier & bolt need to travel about 3/4 of an inch more to hit the back of the gun. OK...so I ground down the trigger and got it to go to the rear of the gun. The gun now performs its minimal function, but a new issue has come up. As the bolt goes to the rear of the gun, after the bolt carrier pushes down the hammer, the bolt face pushes down the hammer just at the end of the stroke. It does not feel too smooth. \ I looked at the bolt and compared it to the bolt in my s

Unfortunately I tried messing with the screws and it did not change the situation. It looks like the bolt carrier & bolt need to travel about 3/4 of an inch more to hit the back of the gun.