[Stock from Battlerifle3(grip and handgyuard Not incl)]

I have just the shoulder stock made out of Hondurian Mohagoney made by BR3.I am using the pistol grip and the handguard. I am asking $60.00 plus 6 dollars for shipping and Insurance.In the picture it is in the right hand corner. I have not refinishished it it is ready for your finishing. Perfect condition no waiting.I can supply more pics if you needAny questions please let me know

 

Also have 250 rounds of Noble LE OObuck fresh 2 3/4 inch 120.00 plus 20 shipping

250 S&B 2 3/4 120.00 plus 20dollars shipping

 

1 mag 20 round brand new never used AGP newer mag 45dollars plus 5 shipping

 

Thanks alot

Ken

954 326-2877

[Mags and Ammo for sale]

I have 2 mags brand new latest version AGP 10 round 12 gauge $45.00 each no charge for shipping-never used

also have S&B 12 Gauge 2.3/4inch oobuck boxes of 10 total of 250 for sale for $120.00 20dollars per 250 shipping

Nobel LE oobuck 2.3/4 12 gauge 250 rounds 120.00 20 per 250 shipping

 

No trades but would take a brand new .410 gauge Saiga for all

 

Can send pictures if interested......

Ken I am in South Florida

 

I have a .410 with the original box but I will vouch that is not been fired. I haven't fired but I can only represent it in like new condition, no scratches. I believe it has a 19" threaded barrel and rifle styled sights. It also a scope mounted on the left side of the receiver. Can furnish you with pictures but it not be before Monday. Charles

 

I meant to say I cannot vouch that this shotgun is unfired condition.

 

 

 

I have sold one mag. I would have only wanted a new .410 but cant do it anymore

 

Thanks

Thanks, Charles

[Mags and Ammo for sale]

I have 2 mags brand new latest version AGP 10 round 12 gauge $45.00 each no charge for shipping-never used

also have S&B 12 Gauge 2.3/4inch oobuck boxes of 10 total of 250 for sale for $120.00 20dollars per 250 shipping

Nobel LE oobuck 2.3/4 12 gauge 250 rounds 120.00 20 per 250 shipping

 

No trades but would take a brand new .410 gauge Saiga for all

 

Can send pictures if interested......

Ken I am in South Florida

[Mike Davidson????]

Anyone Actually seen any of the "Mike Davidson" stuff??? Is this guy for real.... seems to offer all WE want... then the "delays" excuseses, I got a double charge on the drum and he could'nt refund it.... so I cancelled the whole mess...now we have the mag well, BHO, come on COBRA, Have you ACTUALLY SEEN THE STUFF??? Mike

 

 

Mike you have got to be kidding me. I think you are the one who seems to be thinned skinned IMHO. You were double charged and didnt have the patients to work it out? You do understand this is a new PROTOTYPE PRODUCT and a new company and new products take time and I would guess this one is worth waiting for. I was new to this forum 6-7 months ago and Mike Davidson helped me in so many ways from helping me figure out what I was doing as to the build of my S12 and has offered on many occasions to lend me parts until I could replace them. This guy has my vote. I think you have mis judged him and possibly got off to a bad start.

 

Ken

[New Wooden Furniture Need help]

Don't want to cut in on your action sKott, Ironwood Designs has some excellent dying and finishing tips on their site...

 

I went with Ironwood once for a slant cut ak. If I had to do it again I think I'd try http://gripsnstocks.com/index.html (pricy, but beautiful).

 

 

John thanks for the lead to grips and stocks he is gonna finish my furniture.Great lead.

 

Ken

[Finishing wood furniture part 2-need assistance]

I think I got enough info now-THANKS TO EVERYONE

I will post the finished product soon.

And I promise NO more questions(grin)

 

 

 

Ok here are the steps I follow when sanding a new stock.

 

1. Using 180 grit paper lightly sand the entire piece until smooth. be very careful around corners so that you do not sand away too much material.

 

2. When you are happy with the results after the 180 grit sanding step up to 240 grit paper. sand the same paying special attention to the corners. When sanding with the 240 grit you will start to see dark areas (figure or grain) in the wood - this is good. sand and every now and then wipe off the excess dust with a towel.

 

3. After you are happy with the 240 grit results, get a wet rag and wipe down the stock. You do not want it dripping wet but coated with water. let it completely dry. this raises the "hairs" in the wood. when dry the stock will have a "fuzzy" feel to it.

 

4. Again with the 240 grit paper sand the stock until the "hairs" are gone. the stock should now be smooth. Wipe off excess dust with a towel.

 

5. Break out the 0000 Steel Wool. (Use the stuff that is at the hardware store next to the sand paper - not an SOS pad from the kitchen). press hard and "buff" the stock to a extra smooth polish.

 

6. Using a Tack Cloth lightly wipe off the stock to remove any remaining dust - A word of caution here - the Tack Cloth contains wax it you press too hard the wax will transfer from the cloth to the wood (You do NOT want this) the idea it to lightly drag the cloth over the stock so the dust sticks to the wax on the cloth.

you can also use an air compressor and nozzle to blow off the dust - just make sure your compressor doesn't have any collected water in it.

 

7 If you want to use a stain now is the time to use it. follow the directions on the can. I would recommend a dye or oil stain - not a 2 in one or gel-stain. let dry before moving to the oil.

 

8 On my stocks I use Formby's Hi-Gloss Tung oil. They do make a semi gloss - Your choice. using an applicator pad apply the 1st coat of tung oil. - rub it into the wood much as you would wax a car - only smaller circles. you want to give it a good coat but not dripping. Let it dry 24 hr before the second coat.

then give it a 3rd and a 4th. - be sure to let it dry between coats. some people lightly buff with steel wool between coats. (I have tried it both ways and can honestly say I could see not difference - plus it gives more opportunity for trash to end up in the work.)

 

9. when it is finished and everything is completely dry... If the stock is "Too Glossy" for your taste you can lightly rub the stock with the steel wool to "Matte" the finish. otherwise reassemble.

 

Hope this helps

 

sKott

[Finishing wood furniture part 2-need assistance]

We just sanded it a bit then oiled it. We have sanded it and re oilied it once last year but it still looks good.

 

 

Thanks alot looks good.whas it honduran mohoganey?

[Finishing wood furniture part 2-need assistance]

Ken

We just put about 4 coats of tong oil on this one

 

 

 

Thanks did you put any wax coating? Did you sand it down once you put Tung oil on?

 

I was thinking of a sanding before than tung oil once I am happy with look of the Tung I will use Myland wax and then to finish itoff

I will use Carnuba wax. Did you find with each coat of tung oil that it got alot darker? What kind of wood did you use?I am learning as I go and trying to do this right!

 

Thanks for your help!!!

[Finishing wood furniture part 2-need assistance]

OK Heres what I was thinking of doing...Please let me know what you think.

1)Sanding clean before starting with Tung OIL

 

2)100% Tung Oil 2 or 3 coatings (maybe more coating air drying inbetween and then buffing)

 

3)After I am happy with the look

 

4)Waxing with Clear Carnuba wax or some other wax.

 

Does this sound like this will work?Or am I leaving out alot of steps....

 

 

Thanks

Ken

[New Wooden Furniture Need help]

I like your handguard and want something as nice. I would like to work with TUNG OIL(?) I am interested in your help. I have also sent you a private message

 

Thanks again!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is a pic of my Updated Saiga 12 -I could use someone who can help me FINISH the wood like a professional job . If you know someone who can do a quality job please let me know.Also please take a look at this beautiful Saiga.

 

Ken

 

 

Ken,

I can either do this for you or tell you how to do it. - It's not hard. I will have to know a few things before so I can give you some direction.

 

What type of wood is it? What color do you want to end up with? What type of sealant (Tung Oil, Varnish, Polyurethane) Hi-gloss/Low gloss? Where are you Located?

 

This is a handguard set from one of my AK's: (African Padouk with Tung Oil finish)

 

 

 

Let me know

 

sKott

[New Wooden Furniture Need help]

man that looks sharp. is that from battlerifle3. What kind of wood? some woods do not hold a stain well at all. I got some walnut grips for my Walther P38 but the look I wanted was closer to the reddish tone of the plastic bakelite they came with in WWII. The walnut would not take the stain. I got min wax merlot stain and mixed it in min wax satin polyutherane and kept doing multiple coats with foam brushes until I got what I wanted. Just keep stretching it out not to leave any brush strokes and real light sanding between coats. Then I finished it off with some just clear coats. The color is real similar to some of the AK stocks and would look good I think.

 

 

Yes it is BR3.I really like it also.thanks for the feedback

[New Wooden Furniture Need help]

Here is a pic of my Updated Saiga 12 -I could use someone who can help me FINISH the wood like a professional job . If you know someone who can do a quality job please let me know.Also please take a look at this beautiful Saiga.

 

Ken

[VIDEO!!! Saiga-12 Magwell, Bolt Release, LRBHO, Extended M]

Are you going to be installing these choice goodies(magwell,extended release etc) for people who dont have a shop or the tools to do the conversion??

 

If not please let me know someone who could and if you are please put my name on your list!

 

Mike it looks fantastic REALLY DOES

 

Ken Forman

[New Saiga 12 Owner]

I bought mine from Gilberts also.Please enjoy your new Saiga....

 

 

Have Fun

Ken

[Tech arms has 4 -12 gauge AT $420 plus 25 shipping]

Call Wayne 817-319-0798

In Texas

[Robinson Armament XCR]

REally Nice. I wanted one for sooo long but I wanted the Saiga 12 and and AR-15 and could do anymore at this time without being homless(grin)

Enjoy it.Please post how she handles.....

 

Enjoy

Ken

[Pics of my Saiga 12 Conversion!!!]

First, nice gun, good deal. Sounds like you got an excellent price on just the parts. The labor charge for that amount of work was way too low IMO. He must either really need the work or doesn't place a lot of value on his time. He should have made at least $100 to $150 more for that.

 

BTW before you can install the hole plugs you will need to drill oversized holes in your internal block to clear them where they spread inside the receiver.

 

 

 

LOOKS REAL NICE-Great price.Have you fired her yet???ENJOY

Ken

[Winchester Slugs Rangers LE ammo 2 3/4 12 gauge]

How does the Saiga 12 cycle with the above ammo. The slug is a 1 oz and I was concerned that the gun might have problems with this light of an ammo. Does it work well with the saiga? It says in the paperwork I received that 1oz ammo might not work? Anythoughts would be great.

 

Ken

[SElling an old shotgun in florida to an INDIVIDUAL]

[SElling an old shotgun in florida to an INDIVIDUAL]

I have a question if I wanted to sell a shotgun in my homestate of florida and if I find a buyer do I have to do a background check or keep records?

I looked thru the laws for florida. They have no registration and no permits to buy. There is no laws that I can find about buying or selling to individuals. What happens if I sell it and they do something illegal with it? Since I bought it from a dealer does it relect on me? What happens if I sell it and dont keep records and then 8 years from now it is used in a crime. Does anyone have any thoughts on this matter?

 

Ken

[How Do I finish my unfinished Wooden Furniture]

Happen to have a book on woodcarving/woodworking laying around.. It babbles something about using a grain filler before you apply a glossy finish, that if you omit it, it will end with a pitted uneven finish.. Says apply coats of varish, rubbing down inbetween until the pores are filled, says its hard work, that you can use a colored filler to make it easier, but to pick a color darker then the wood since the filler lightens up as it dries.. "Rub the filler onto the wood with circular strokes, using a coarse cloth to remove any excess filler, and let it harden overnight before sanding very lightly with a fine-grade paper in the direction of the grain."

 

Guess all that is for varnishing or shellacing it..

 

Oil and wax it says... Boiled linseed oil is good for small objects only, but it doesn't give a hard durable finish, and takes a while to dry.. Says Tung Oil, also known as China wood oil, is the most durable, shrugging off water and resistant to heat and alcohol (Good for that drunken duck hunting I suppose..), says it takes 24 hours to dry, but careful rubbing down with a very fine silicon-carbide paper between coats will produce a superb finish, apply 5 to 6 coats in all..

 

Hope that helps slightly, but I'm in no way a professional, just someone with a woodworking book that can look up what it says and spit it back out. Would hit up a friendly woodworker in your area, and test all this on a bit of the wood that wouldn't matter if it gets messed up, like maybe the inside of the handguard... Just to be sure it all comes out alright.

Thanks alot I am getting there.Appreciate it to all...

[How Do I finish my unfinished Wooden Furniture]

I used Boiled Linseed oil on mine. Tungoil works well also.

 

 

 

That came out great. You just rub it in and let it dry? One time 2 times? What kind of wood is yours?

 

Thanks

[How Do I finish my unfinished Wooden Furniture]

I could use some help or a link. I have no experience with finishing raw Honduran Mahogany. I got lucky(real lucky) and was able to buy an unfinished Mahogany Saiga stock set from the "MASTER"that was earmarked for another customer but (long story) its on its way to me. I really want it to be a masterpiece so I could use any help anyone could supply. The last thing I ever finished was a coffee table and it came out ok but this is definitely NOT a coffee table(grin)

 

 

Please help

Ken in Florida

Does anyone know what it would cost to finish the stock set professionally?

[South Florida shooters I have a question]

Try Markham Park, I think it is the only range that I found that should let you shoot the Saiga 12. By the way, they do skeet or trap at this range as well. The range staff will probably kick you off if you get a little fast on the trigger. I also have a Saiga 12 done up by Tromix but have not fired it yet, cuurently stationed in the Middle East. Below is a link to the range at Makham Park. By the way, nice Saiga 12.

 

http://www.markhampark.com/

 

Later,

Scott

 

 

Thanks alot for the heads up. I used to live close to MP but I was told that they changed there rules. I will call the today.

 

You be careful and give em hell.

[S-12 Conversion Opinions ???]

Jesus, Joseph, Mary and the twelve Apostles!

 

.... You've got THREE S-12s in with Tony for conversation....

 

**...can't think.... can't think.... unable to get over the shock...**

 

 

 

You should PM Jeaux E. I'm sure he would have a few fantastic suggestions for you since he owns several examples of Tony's exemplary work.

I am pretty new to this but Tony just sent my masterpiece back and if I could do another one or 2 (grin) I would make a nice SHORT Barrelled Saiga.My first thought when I opened up the UPS box from tromix was that the barrel was too long. I really like it but shorter would be ok. Also I really like the wooden furniture really makes it unique. Thats all I got for now.Hope you get some good suggestions...

Ken/South Florida