Cavediver

That's what I don't understand. I did not touch the disconnector hook at all. I only polished up the contact faces fo the hammer and trigger hook, plus the back side of the hammer and the bottom of the bolt. It just does not make sense. After I reassembled everything, I checked operation fo nearly 10 minutes. Of course, I can't duplicate the amount of force that occurs when firing, but I don't see how that could have any impact. I'll take it apart again next week, make sure there are no burrs or hang-up points on the trigger parts. I also need to check and make sure that spring and t

Actually, I didn't do the grinding for the BHO yet. I wanted to make sure the basics were in an functioning before I messed with it.

Last weekend I installed a new G2 trigger. Last night I took it to the range to check it out. The first 2 trigger pulls resulted in 2 shots each... After that things seemed to work fine. The trigger pulls were slow, complete pulls. The rifle was tight against my shoulder, so no bump firing. I did polish some of the trigger surfaces, but only enough to remove the paint and take the sharp edges off. My only guess is the disconnector missed catching the hammer, maybe it was not rotating properly on the pin? The good side is that the trigger was nice and smooth If anyone has

It's just a big roll pin, look at it, find the side with the smaller appearance and use a flat headed punch to knock it out. I tried a plain punch with no success. I had to resort to a nail set to bend the flanges of the pin inward a little. While the original pin is trashed, I was able to get it out and recover the spring. Thanks for the advice! I looked over the tutorial that I had printed out, it appears I missed the page with these same instructions.

Really? I tried to disassemble the old trigger, but I could not get that sleeve out. Do you have any helpful hints? I'll go back through my research material and see what I can find. Yeah, I'll have it replaced before I take it to the range. I just needed a temporary fix to check function. No way I'd shoot it without replacing that spring

I decided to give it a bit of help. Using pictures provided by gunnysmith as a guide, I pulled out some sharpening stones and smoothed out some of the trigger connection points. While I was at it, I also lapped the bottom of the bolt carrier. I did sort of a half-assed job, afraid to grind too much off. Once I take it back to the range, I expect there will be some new wear marks to direct me as I finish the job. The new G2 single hook seemed to be better/easier/smoother than the stock Saiga trigger. After I lapped and polished the connection points, it was even better. I was a littl

So I just finished installing my new trigger group. Is this really normal, and can I shoot the gun like this? It seems like it will work fine and that it will probably smooth out after a while, however, I'm new to rifles and want to make sure it's really OK... Thanks

That's the one! Thanks!

Somewhere on this forum, I read that you have to grind down one side of the hammer (?) before installing a new trigger group. Does this apply only when keeping the BHO? After a bit of searching I still can't find the correct post. Is there a specific diagram / measurement that I need to hit (assuming that I do have to grind the trigger...)? Sorry for the repetative question. I know the info's there, I just can't seem to lay eyes on it... Thanks!

Hand drill??? Hand drill!!!! Blasphemy! I figured I could get away with a hand drill for most of this conversion. However, I've got a small drill press (and a new vice ) that need to justify their existance... I'm hoping to do the PG and stock conversion this weekend. With any luck, the guide will be here sometime next week, and I'll be shooting the week after.

I ordered the feed ramp just so I could buy a milling vice for my drill press Even though is seems intrusive, there's no reason you couldn't remove the feed ramp and return to using stock magazines (at least not one that I can see...).

FWIW, since several people reported sucess w/o a feed ramp, I ordered several different types of magazines over the last two weeks. Pro-mag .223, Bulgarian 45rnd and The Galil orilites. The Bulgarian fit after a little filing, no-go on feeding w/o a ramp. It's still a little tight; I need to do a little more shaping before it's good to go. The Pro-Mag fit out of the box, no filing. It's got some side to side play, but I doubt it will be a problem (as long as I don't use it for a handle). Also a no-go for feeding w/o a ramp. The Galils should be here today, I expect they'll fi

Nice! I've been looking for some trigger info, this looks like most of the info I want. What did you use to do the polishing? I've got all sorts of materials, tools, and equipment available, but I've never tried this and don't want to screw it up... I hear people refer to it as "stoning", and I'm assuming they are using sharpenng / polishing stones, but that seems a little impractical for some of the surfaces.

Ridge Runner, Less than a month ago, I bought a Saiga .223. It's my first rifle. I'm seriously thinking about buying another couple of Saigas, another .223 for my wife and perhaps a .308 just for fun. Buy it. You won't regret it. Even if you decide to upgrade later, this can go to the back of the safe for rainy day fun or emergencies. The internals are pretty simple, it's easy to take down and clean, and it's an absolute pleasure to shoot. The only downside is that you must do the whole conversion process if you want to use higher capacity magazines (it comes stock with 10 r

Hoping this would work for me, I bought a Bulgarian 45 round waffle mag from Cope's. Unless I'm missing a couple of grinding areas, I will need a feed ramp to make it work. I don't know if the 45 round mags are different than the 30's, but I doubt it. I also ordered a pro-mag, but they're on back order right now.