mscottrogers

Doesnt look like you have a problem. It looks like you may have 4 vents and thats lined up better than most of mine. You need to take into account the angle you're looking at and shadows. Do as mullet man says. Your vent is normal

If you are familiar with ak47 then this is very similar. The gas system is different. The end where it's adjusted comes out for service. Take it shooting and see how it functions. Field strip it and look for cracks in the normal areas(trunions, carrier, receiver around rivits, etc). I've got one that's a single shot because it has no gas holes. It's a simple enough fix.

All the way in is less gas on the factory plugs. When one of mine was new I had to back it out a full turn. You can either but a lot of buckshot and slugs and have at it tp break it in, which is fun or search for polishing the fire control group, etc, to speed up the break in procedure. Good luck, have fun.

Wd is mostly fish oils. I use rem-oil pretty liberally. Its a good preservative. Not so good lube

Its a Saiga not a nice Browning. I would be concerned about areas you cant see. Getting rain on it wont force water anywhere penetrating oil can't get to. Strip it down and clean your parts. Use a silicone water displacing protective spray on all those parts. Spray a good penetrating oil into the barrel/trunnion mating area and where the rear trunion meets the receiver. It will be fine. Deep breathe.

Can you have both?

Vepr rifles use thicker receivers, probably with the shotguns as well. More options as well. My opinion is that veprs are of a better quality. My Vepr rifle has a thicker barrel than regular ak style rifles. I dont have a shotgun to compare to my saigas. My opinions, others may vary

Definitely, before buying any corvette join a club or forum. I'm on the corvetteforum.com and they have a list of 10 things to know or look for before buying a vette. The birdcage is the biggest culprit and its the subframe which is bolted to the chasis which holds the windshield, the passenger compartment, and the doors together. It may be different on a C4, I'm not sure, but you definitely need to talk to someone that is familar with the year you are interested in.

Hagerty's values an 86 daily driver at 4,000, the next grade up is only 6,000. Craigslist in my area have them from 3k to 10k so there is a good selection, some have low miles too.

C4 are the cheap ones currently. In Massachusetts C1, C2, are in the 20k+ for project cars the probably arent running. C3 project steel bumper non matching number cars that arent running are around 3k, 6k running, 10-11k for drivers, 18k+ for good shape that need minor work, 25k+ for restored that need a little work. All matching number C3 cars can start as high as 10k not running. Plastic bumper C3 are cheaper as they get closer to 82. Craigslist has a great selection around here, good cross section of ranges. Corvetteforum is a good source for local prices.

I agree but I dont have a garage or a budget that big, maybe someday. Im working on the garage next spring

Exactly. I want it to look stock but run better and be more reliable than stock. Of course I lose some value but I like my guns the same way. I buy stuff to use it, not stick it in the corner to look at

Ya life can be tough on some people. Haha.

Cool thanks.

Are you PA Patriot over there?

That's what I was looking for. So once I do the FCG conversion, will any AR style stock work then? Either it will be a AR style stock made with an AK trunion style mount or you can buy a back plate that can be bolted or welded on that can use an AR buffer tube.once the trigger is moved tbere are lots of options from tons of vendors. Shop the vendors that support this forum first

I joined there about a month ago when I started looking for a vette. Thanks. I'm rescue Rogers over there It is. It makes me giggle like I'm 18 and have my first hot rod, just not as stupid.

After you replace the fire control group you wont be able to use that setup. Replacing the trigger, etc moves it forward and makes room for pistol grip. You would be just wasting $80. Thats the mod they speak of. If you plan on the upgrades right away I wouldnt buy it. You can test fire it and have all the info you need in a day, and then be able to start swapping and polishing that night. And save your old trigger, hammer etc because you will need them for reference and a backup for the EOTWAWKI, lol.

Thanks! It has some upgrades. The suspension is a newer performance package, the sidepipes, and the engine was swapped out for a 72 LT1 350. The rest is stock. I would have prefered a numbers matching original but it would have been another 10 grand on top of my price and that would be for something that neeeded alot of work. Im happy with it.

It needs a few things. Alittle work here and there, but its soooo fun

If you mess with it first you won't have a baseline to judge from. Remember to write down how far each different type of shot ejects so you can tell what each change has done. Somethings you want to change can mess with the cycle rate. Fore grips can if they impinge on the gas system. Fire control groups can if the hammer isn't profiled correctly or the trigger doesnt sit in the hole correctly. Scott metimes the mags and drums may be the problem. Do you still have the factory five round, its good to have it to set a baseline as well

Who did he buy it from???? My friends shop will take back and either fix or replace unmodified weapons. As lng as its not obviously been tampered with.

Shoot it first before you screw around with the internals. No sense in screwing any type of warranty you might have before knowing it will function. I still have one that had 1 round through it that has no gas holes at all. Waiting for a rainy winter day before I start any conversion on it.

Do you have a factory round.. if so and it seats, check your case overall length,measured tip to base. Maybe size a case and chamber it empty, could be your shoulder is off if the size die is improperly adjusted. Just because your crimping on the canular doesnt mean the length is correct. Bullet shapes can affect seating as a sharper o-give can seat further into the rifling before it hits the edge of the bullet. But usually seating too long will give you trouble in the magazine. What is the plunk test?

You could buy a spot welder from habor freight, the 110volt one. Fix it yourself, then, having a new tool that doesn't have a purpose, have to buy some AK flats and weld on the rails with it and start buildng AKs