jamesavery22

I made this out of 6061 T6511 aluminum to mount onto a barrel with a diameter of 0.574". This was Type 3 hard anodized by US Anodizing. This replaced my front sight on my Saiga IZ-132. I mounted a standard height AR15 flip up front sight and used a adjustable rear AK sight. I'm also selling both the flip sight, the rear sight, and an Ultimak. Cost $75 just to have anodizing. Selling for $75 shipped USPS priority to CONUS only. Paypal gift payment only.

I'm parting up the rifle this was on. I've listed this in the marketplace:

M4 x 0.70 mm Thread. Mcmaster part number: 92137A303 can work if you don't use the sling swivel. If you can't use a pick to spin it out I'd press off the GB and drill it all the way out then press it back on. It's very easy to press off. Just make sure to mark how far to press it back before you press it off so the pin channel is aligned when you press it back on.

Mostly a mill. The stepped hole for the gas tube was done on a lathe.

I've always wanted a better way to put a light and an RDS on my S12. How my 10 year old shotgun started out: After recent upgrades: Had to make a new rear sight block out of 4140. Just got it back from Pete's Heat Treating Inc. yesterday. Parkerized and gunkoted it. This is the mounting point for a TWS dogleg. This also has a Glock rear sight dovetail. Actually had a tall ameriglo rear sight I got to throw on. The rear of the dogleg on an S12 is very tricky. Doesn't fit quite right with the AK74 folding trunnion with out some material removed and some added. Fro

That's a great read. Apples to oranges though. x39 being a lower pressure/velocity and barrels coming from different countries. Lucky's test is beyond a torture test. No one is going through 10K rounds in the time frame that they did. At 10K my rifling looks immaculate compared to their pictures of the rifling or lack of.

I'm in the same boat. Never counted but I know I've bought at least a couple of 1K boxes of x39 each year for the past 5 years. Sprinkled in there over the years was impulse buying of good deals on 640 spam cans. The IZ-132 has eaten almost all of it. I just ran a 10 person range outing beforce xmas. The IZ-132 had 500 rounds through it in less than an hour and that wasn't my ammo. That rifle is definitely over the 10K mark. Edit--- I do feel the barrel has taken a beating. Comparing that barrel to a relatively new x39 barrel(anything under 1K) the rifling is not as bright

12" TonyRumore had a thread that showed 28" - 12" has negligible velocity loss. There's a super old thread on another forum where a guy took a single barrel shotgun and cut it down to something nuts like 4" 1" at a time. At each length he measured velocity. Past 12" the velocity started to drop off rapidly. So for ballistics alone, 12".

For the most part I agree with you Matthew. In this specific case it is an exception. Anyone that handles any normal configured AK will prefer that to one that has one of these tapco "conversion" stocks. Putting the pistol grip two inches further back of the receiver does not help handling of the rifle. Unless you're Manute Bol I don't see making the rifle longer than the normal config a benefit for you. Ordnance, The guy in the background has a very basic converted Saiga. Yours would be very close to his if you did the true FCG conversion. In that config the rifle held u

As to where to grind all that matters of the bullet guide is the front edge. So if the BG is too high I'd mill down the entire top to the proper height. If you have a flat trunnion the bullet guide should be a right parallelepiped. No curves. I can measure the height of my dinzag BG when I get home. I have a flat trunnion. Is yours flat or rounded?

Thanks guys. MOE handguards needed some filing and a custom retainer: http://vepr.org/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=1432

Full write up at the vepr forum: vepr.org/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=1758

It'd be nice to have one but I've never seen a similar diagram for the 5.5 setup. That being said it's not needed. Cut enough so the trunnion can snap in. Regardless of which you have the top four rivet holes are in the same location. Use those to index the receiver and trunnion together. Then file down the extra material until the receiver's edges match the trunnion's edges when the trunnion's rivet holes match up to the existing receiver countersunk rivet holes. If you cut to the above schematics specs it will definitely work but you remove more material than you have to. Be

drill and ream... 7/64 drill bit then a 3mm reamer. That's if you have a virgin FSB. If your FSB already has pin holes drilled then it's a 7/64 end mill then a reamer. Need a mill for that work. Else the press fit is really all that's keeping the FSB from twisting.

I sent a M951 mount to him that was already tumbled and it was $25. The rail was painted and needed to be tumbled so that was $70.