Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

111 Good

About skiboatsp

  • Rank
    Executive Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  1. Hey, let's get this straight. I put it against the tree because I'm a big puss. No, I put it against the tree to reduce the forces on the front mag catch. All of those videos of me firing off of a tree was with prototype mags of greatly reduced strength compared to production mags. I did it to keep them from coming apart and breaking, even then it didn't prevent it all the time. The rest of this isn't pointed at you either but just some answers on the question. Weight does matter. First, how a gun is held will affect the function of the gun regardless if it is gas operated. In theory if the gun was able to recoil at the same speed of the bolt carrier all of the energy of the gas would be for nothing. The bolt carrier wouldn't even move rearward from it's position because the rearward moving gun would move with it at the same speed. This is in theory and the saiga-12 doesn't kick that hard even if it was floating in air completely unsupported. I know we say a loosely held gun causes energy loss but really that is a bad way to state it. There is energy loss of cycling potential but all the energy is still there, it is just cancelled out but the movement of the platform holding the mech. Next, over all weight of the gun, assuming all moving internal parts are the same weight... If your gun weights 30 pounds vs 10 pounds it isn't going to change a thing if the gun is completely stable with zero rearward movement possible. But that isn't how we shoot these things, they do kick. So with that into account a 30 pound gun is going to kick less than a 10 pound gun and there for less of your cycling energy of the carrier will be lost (canceled out). It takes more energy to get a 30 lb object moving than a 10 lb object. But it is not practical to weight down a gun to account for a weak running system and I am sure that some of these guns would still have problems even if you eliminated all recoil movement of the receiver. Weight of the moving parts; bolt carrier, bolt, etc... Changing the weight of the mechanical parts is going to change things. But this is where it gets really tricky with a gillion variables to consider and I won't be going into them all and my human brain can likely only calculate partially without exploding... If you add much weight to the carrier you are going to make more energy required to move it. If you remove weight you are going to reduce the energy required to move it. This can have varying effects. It might take more energy to move a 30 lb object than a 10 lb object but this doesn't necessarily mean reduced weight is good. The carrier is only pushed for a very short stroke. The rest of it's movement is dependent on the transferred energy to it (kinetic energy, inertia). A moving 30 lb object is going to carry a hell of a lot more energy than a 10 lb object moving at the same speed. If you reduce the weight of the carrier will it have enough of this stored energy to finish the cycle against the springs? If you increase the weight of the carrier will it get enough energy to get it moving? It is a delicate balance. I will say this though and please note before hand that I am in no way tied to Ohio Rapid Fire, but when they were working on their galil project this is what the found... The galil charging handle knob... They made some to put on the carriers... They first tried to make these solid without hollowing out the knob... Their guns were failing to eject. They hollowed out the knob and the ejection issue was solved. If you know the size of the knob you know that the amount of material removed to hollow it out is very minimal... In this instance the minimal added weight was enough to make or break the cycling. It is my GUESS that adding weight to the carrier is not ideal and will hurt the cycling some unless you are going to compensate it with increased gas flow or something. It would be easy to test adding weight buy removing the cover and clamping varying weights to the carrier. It would also be easy to test reducing weight to the carrier but might not be as easy to undo this test... I am not recommending anyone try this. It is on our list of test to preform but just haven't got around to it yet... That's exaxctly why I hollow out my charging handle for the most authentic look and light weight.
  2. The dremil is turning way too fast You have probably work hardened the steel also No worries, get the best quality drill you can, lowes will work. Take the old one and let someone measure it for you. turn the drill no faster than about 200 RPM, use oil and use a moderate pressure to get you thru the hard surface, than ease up and let the drill cut. Get a couple drills because when they turn dark blue or brown / black their toast. When you get the speed right your can drill many holes if you're not sure on the speed, and you can't use a drill press, use a varible speed drill motor and turn it slowwwwwwwwwwww. remember slow, use oil, and let the drill cut. Good luck
  3. "These are mine, not work solicited from saiga 12 forum" this is an official disclaimer to protect the innocent I create a weld prep around the outside of the plate Then fit the plate to the inside of the reciever I weld the plate with .032 wire using a .0625 tungston electrode, and fill the groove only letting filler material wash onto the end surface of the reciever, careful not to let it roll over the edge. This allows for a crisp straight edge so you can't tell it's been welded
  4. Yes Yes You funny guy Now I don't see how your response helped answer sharpsjoe's question Oh I see now It looks like you did'nt even weld your own sights own? here was my initial respone "I usually square up the gas block to the reciever, then tweek the top cover to fit correctly or as best possible. I then place the rear sight on and align with reciever, then set front sight and check with laser. Then tac on rear, check with laser, tac on front and check again. Also depending on your attachment design, rosette weld vs bead on out side, as you weld it can pull to one side or the other. Unfortunatly for most enthuiast, if you could install dozens you gain experience and the installation gets better and better. Never give up, and don't be too hard on yourself's, doing it yourself makes this project very rewarding and pushes people to learn and gain new found skills!! " I have allways tried to help and motivate people on this forum It never seems to amaze me when children start posting on forums
  5. That's odd I remember you saying you eyef#*k yours on before Eye F%*k sights on The barrel, receiver, trunion, top cover and everything else on the gun is not square or parrallel with anything. Jigging the front sight up never works worth a shit. It's best to just eye-fuck it from the rear.....at least that way, the front sight LOOKS straight to the shooter. No one gives a shit if the sight is square with the barrel, square with the trunion, square with the receiver, or whatever.....if it doesn't LOOK straight, you're fucked. This was posted after I tried to explain a very logical and easy to follow explaination? I've never tried to contradict him or make him look bad? What's up?
  6. When you grind the weld down flush, can you see an outline of one side of the hole on any of your welds? If I spend enough time no. After hearing from you I can see you are much the same a perfectionist as myself. To do it right it takes more than a few minutes Be sure to post pics when your finished!
  7. 27/32 is .8438" you ned .842" for 75% thread. If you can hold .8438 plus 0.0 you should be OK
  8. On metric it's easy Subtract the pitch from the O.D. .75mm - 22mm = 21.25mm divided by 25.4 = .8366" round up to .837 inches It's hard to hold precise sizes when drilling plus this is a fine thread and needs a smooth bore to hold a consistant thread percentage. My first choice would be Boring on a mill or lathe, or milling by interpolation Second would be drilling and reaming (this would require an adjustable or custom made reamer) Third would be drilling by carefully sneaking up on the final size with slightly smaller drills If you move too far from these deminsions you loose your optimal thread persentage of around 75 - 85% very quickly.
  9. No problem I was only referring to you by your experience you posted. No disrespect on either parties and thank you
  10. Why? It can be repaired!!!
  11. Increases the value if you can't easily see it's been modified. I've seen some really rough jobs and this is why I say the finish work cannot be rushed. I spot mine with dykem or a sharpe, then grind to just flush without touching the reciever, then file untill smooth. This assures you won't see any evidence of repair. The reciever is flat and smooth.
  12. "The video of the bolt closing the last 1/2 inch is awesome" Most of the time the draging is acually due to the extractor spring resistance not the bolt camming or what not. Just remove the extractor on a stock, unmodified bolt and try it. I believe some builders use a weaker extractor spring or modify the original.
  • Create New...