skiboatsp

Yes hard chromed

Hey, let's get this straight. I put it against the tree because I'm a big puss. No, I put it against the tree to reduce the forces on the front mag catch. All of those videos of me firing off of a tree was with prototype mags of greatly reduced strength compared to production mags. I did it to keep them from coming apart and breaking, even then it didn't prevent it all the time. The rest of this isn't pointed at you either but just some answers on the question. Weight does matter. First, how a gun is held will affect the function of the gun regardless if it is gas operated. In theory

The dremil is turning way too fast You have probably work hardened the steel also No worries, get the best quality drill you can, lowes will work. Take the old one and let someone measure it for you. turn the drill no faster than about 200 RPM, use oil and use a moderate pressure to get you thru the hard surface, than ease up and let the drill cut. Get a couple drills because when they turn dark blue or brown / black their toast. When you get the speed right your can drill many holes if you're not sure on the speed, and you can't use a drill press, use a varible spe

"These are mine, not work solicited from saiga 12 forum" this is an official disclaimer to protect the innocent I create a weld prep around the outside of the plate Then fit the plate to the inside of the reciever I weld the plate with .032 wire using a .0625 tungston electrode, and fill the groove only letting filler material wash onto the end surface of the reciever, careful not to let it roll over the edge. This allows for a crisp straight edge so you can't tell it's been welded

Yes Yes You funny guy Now I don't see how your response helped answer sharpsjoe's question Oh I see now It looks like you did'nt even weld your own sights own? here was my initial respone "I usually square up the gas block to the reciever, then tweek the top cover to fit correctly or as best possible. I then place the rear sight on and align with reciever, then set front sight and check with laser. Then tac on rear, check with laser, tac on front and check again. Also depending on your attachment design, rosette weld vs bead on out side, as you weld it can pull

That's odd I remember you saying you eyef#*k yours on before Eye F%*k sights on The barrel, receiver, trunion, top cover and everything else on the gun is not square or parrallel with anything. Jigging the front sight up never works worth a shit. It's best to just eye-fuck it from the rear.....at least that way, the front sight LOOKS straight to the shooter. No one gives a shit if the sight is square with the barrel, square with the trunion, square with the receiver, or whatever.....if it doesn't LOOK straight, you're fucked. This was posted after I tried to explain a very lo

When you grind the weld down flush, can you see an outline of one side of the hole on any of your welds? If I spend enough time no. After hearing from you I can see you are much the same a perfectionist as myself. To do it right it takes more than a few minutes Be sure to post pics when your finished!

27/32 is .8438" you ned .842" for 75% thread. If you can hold .8438 plus 0.0 you should be OK

On metric it's easy Subtract the pitch from the O.D. .75mm - 22mm = 21.25mm divided by 25.4 = .8366" round up to .837 inches It's hard to hold precise sizes when drilling plus this is a fine thread and needs a smooth bore to hold a consistant thread percentage. My first choice would be Boring on a mill or lathe, or milling by interpolation Second would be drilling and reaming (this would require an adjustable or custom made reamer) Third would be drilling by carefully sneaking up on the final size with slightly smaller drills If you move too far from these d

No problem I was only referring to you by your experience you posted. No disrespect on either parties and thank you

Why? It can be repaired!!!

Increases the value if you can't easily see it's been modified. I've seen some really rough jobs and this is why I say the finish work cannot be rushed. I spot mine with dykem or a sharpe, then grind to just flush without touching the reciever, then file untill smooth. This assures you won't see any evidence of repair. The reciever is flat and smooth.

"The video of the bolt closing the last 1/2 inch is awesome" Most of the time the draging is acually due to the extractor spring resistance not the bolt camming or what not. Just remove the extractor on a stock, unmodified bolt and try it. I believe some builders use a weaker extractor spring or modify the original.