skiboatsp

Yes hard chromed

Hey, let's get this straight. I put it against the tree because I'm a big puss. No, I put it against the tree to reduce the forces on the front mag catch. All of those videos of me firing off of a tree was with prototype mags of greatly reduced strength compared to production mags. I did it to keep them from coming apart and breaking, even then it didn't prevent it all the time. The rest of this isn't pointed at you either but just some answers on the question. Weight does matter. First, how a gun is held will affect the function of the gun regardless if it is gas operated. In theory

The dremil is turning way too fast You have probably work hardened the steel also No worries, get the best quality drill you can, lowes will work. Take the old one and let someone measure it for you. turn the drill no faster than about 200 RPM, use oil and use a moderate pressure to get you thru the hard surface, than ease up and let the drill cut. Get a couple drills because when they turn dark blue or brown / black their toast. When you get the speed right your can drill many holes if you're not sure on the speed, and you can't use a drill press, use a varible spe

"These are mine, not work solicited from saiga 12 forum" this is an official disclaimer to protect the innocent I create a weld prep around the outside of the plate Then fit the plate to the inside of the reciever I weld the plate with .032 wire using a .0625 tungston electrode, and fill the groove only letting filler material wash onto the end surface of the reciever, careful not to let it roll over the edge. This allows for a crisp straight edge so you can't tell it's been welded

Yes Yes You funny guy Now I don't see how your response helped answer sharpsjoe's question Oh I see now It looks like you did'nt even weld your own sights own? here was my initial respone "I usually square up the gas block to the reciever, then tweek the top cover to fit correctly or as best possible. I then place the rear sight on and align with reciever, then set front sight and check with laser. Then tac on rear, check with laser, tac on front and check again. Also depending on your attachment design, rosette weld vs bead on out side, as you weld it can pull

That's odd I remember you saying you eyef#*k yours on before Eye F%*k sights on The barrel, receiver, trunion, top cover and everything else on the gun is not square or parrallel with anything. Jigging the front sight up never works worth a shit. It's best to just eye-fuck it from the rear.....at least that way, the front sight LOOKS straight to the shooter. No one gives a shit if the sight is square with the barrel, square with the trunion, square with the receiver, or whatever.....if it doesn't LOOK straight, you're fucked. This was posted after I tried to explain a very lo

When you grind the weld down flush, can you see an outline of one side of the hole on any of your welds? If I spend enough time no. After hearing from you I can see you are much the same a perfectionist as myself. To do it right it takes more than a few minutes Be sure to post pics when your finished!

27/32 is .8438" you ned .842" for 75% thread. If you can hold .8438 plus 0.0 you should be OK

On metric it's easy Subtract the pitch from the O.D. .75mm - 22mm = 21.25mm divided by 25.4 = .8366" round up to .837 inches It's hard to hold precise sizes when drilling plus this is a fine thread and needs a smooth bore to hold a consistant thread percentage. My first choice would be Boring on a mill or lathe, or milling by interpolation Second would be drilling and reaming (this would require an adjustable or custom made reamer) Third would be drilling by carefully sneaking up on the final size with slightly smaller drills If you move too far from these d

No problem I was only referring to you by your experience you posted. No disrespect on either parties and thank you

Why? It can be repaired!!!

Increases the value if you can't easily see it's been modified. I've seen some really rough jobs and this is why I say the finish work cannot be rushed. I spot mine with dykem or a sharpe, then grind to just flush without touching the reciever, then file untill smooth. This assures you won't see any evidence of repair. The reciever is flat and smooth.

"The video of the bolt closing the last 1/2 inch is awesome" Most of the time the draging is acually due to the extractor spring resistance not the bolt camming or what not. Just remove the extractor on a stock, unmodified bolt and try it. I believe some builders use a weaker extractor spring or modify the original.

A sight to behold!! That's what I'm talking about!!

I'm sure it can be repaired

Yes Skott was one of the early pioneer's His weapon is still one of the best ever in my opinion. There is a ton more info out there now SVDS folders and their differences plus installing the russian magwell with the folder

Holes...not quite The parts are peened in place otherwise you are correct Sir I bow to your superior knowledge. It's been a few years since I've helped replace a piston, and have yet to do it myself. Forgot it was just peened in. it's fun when we all learn!!

You are correct it seems they use what ever parts are in the bins I personally like the small triangle look

Just analyzed it .022" pleanty of material because it's a hole Yes the russian version has a catch I have done these mods on many saiga's and this geometry works It requires close tolerence work and everything fits perfectly

Holes...not quite The parts are peened in place otherwise you are correct Sir

It looks like a small tab of sheet metal is need to be tig welded into the "extra long" front of the magwell opening. Is that correct? Acually its where material is removed Also you are correct the russian saiga TG is shaped like your example but the 030 has another slightly different shape By the way your build looks Great!!!

The reciever requires some machining for this MW The front is attacked in a slot in the reciever using screw with a slotted head.

I haven't really checked out pics involving the Russian magwell, but, would it be easier to just press out the front trunion and install the RSB, trunion and barrel on a standard Saiga 12 receiver? I'm not too concerned with keeping the LRBHO. I was thinking about it yesterday. Swapping receivers with a standard S12 receiver could be an option for folks like me who don't need or want the magwell or LRBHO and have an extra Saiga 12 laying around. What's your opinion on this, saigatechusa? From what I've read the 030 truniun is different than the s12 and may require even more mods. I