Salmonaxe

I just took of the front and rear sights on my Saiga 12 in order to install an Ultimak rail system. Front sight has two flats on it and unscrews. I used a small set of pliers with a flat nose. Rear sight is to be driven out to the right. (Muzzle end pointing away from you.) I'm pretty sure that the dovetail on the rear sight has a slight taper to it. At first I tried a brass punch like the instruction said, but the brass absorbed too much of th impact. (Too soft) I then put Electrical tape on the trunnion to keep it from getting scuffed up and used a 1/3" diameter steel punch.

Well, mainly I really really like Aimpoints. I probably have 5-6 of them on various rifles and on my Saiga. The Aimpoint has really good battery life, a simple design and can take a lot of abuse. With the micro, it has that same level of battery life and durability in a WAY smaller package. Yet, it only has a tube diameter that's about 3/4 the size of a standard Aimpoint M2. I really value the durability of my optics since I live in a wet climate. On top of that, the micro should sit even lower than a standard Aimpoint and weighs considerably less. This should be a great combination f

Just an FYI to all you folks out there. If you want to use one of the new Ultimak rails for your Saiga 12, the Larue throw lever won't work. Larue's throw levers need clearance below the rail. The Ultimak rail juts out and blocks the Larue from fully closing. Even though I don't like ARMS mounts, they fit. So I'm using that instead. I tried a QRP and that also worked. Also, this rail system is quite nice. It sits even lower than one of the low Kvar mounts. (About 1/2 inch lower.) Currently I've got an Aimpoint Comp M2 mounted in an the ARMS M68. I'm thinking that it might be ev

Are Saiga 12 AOW's possible? I'm pretty sure AOW's need to be made from a virgin receiver or a factory pistol gripped shotgun. Has anyone produced a USA made Saiga 12 receiver? FYI No SBS's in my state, only AOW's. That's why I'm asking.

Well, I'm not talking about stuff I heard, just my own personal experience. I know that I like to hear peoples experiences with accessories, especially if they are bad. It sucks to drop $$$ on junk. I don't baby my firearms, and I expect them to be able to pass a drop test. Both my AR-15's have accidentally fallen and have no loss of zero (and definitely haven't fallen apart). And I expect the reason for this is that the price of these optics reflect their quality. Naw, you can keep your $20 I'll find some sucker at the gunshow who will pay more.

I got a PK-A Reddot with a Bulgy AK I bought, and I thought I'd try it out on my Saiga-12. (w/ 2 3/4"slugs) Big Mistake! I made it fairly tight on the side rail and after a couple of shots it popped off. So then I tightened it some more and sighted it in. I decided to run it at my rifle league and after 2 shots it came flying off the rifle again and I had to run the entire course with irons. (which leave much to be desired since they aren't all that adjustable). The scope didn't retain that much damage considering it was launched about 6ft onto concrete. Just a couple of scuf

Well, some Chinese AK magazines have a follower that has a tab that sticks up on it and holds the bolt back on the last round. I think they are for some special chinese gun, but they also work in a standard AK. I'm guessing that this could possibly work with a Saiga 12 mag, but as soon as you remove the mag the bolt will end up flying forward. So it's kinda pointless. And personally, I'd actually prefer 8rd mags. More specifically exact duplicates of the standard saiga 12 8rd mags. Ishmash surely had to do a lot of bug testing on these mags, and reliability is the MOST important aspec

One of the fastest (and probably goofiest looking) ways I've found to load a fresh magazine and also maintain a good cheek weld is to: 1) Make sure you have a good cheekweld and the butt is placed firmly in your shoulder. 2) Maintain a good grip on the forearm with your left hand, then pull and hold open the bolt with your right hand in the way that is strongest for you. (for me it's with my index finger like I'm holding a bicycle handlebar. Specifically at base of my finger and with a closed fist) 3) Let go of the forearm with you left hand. (You should have a nice triangle of s

I think something like that could work, but I don't see the reason why... I'm pretty sure that this grip nut, from a milled reciever gets it's strength from fitting into a slot which keeps it from moving from side to side. But on a standard stamped reciever grip nut, the strength is retained by having large flats on the grip nut pressing on either side of the grip nut hole. This gives the nut an even distribution of pressure on 2 axis. (like a cube) It looks like the grip nut in your picture would only really give an even distribution of pressure in 1 axis. (like a domino on its side)

Yes, it is exactly like the mag you have in your picture. The torture test I did was basically an all day trap shoot with my buddies on the 4th. I noticed that whenever I had a jam, it was on that specific mag and it was always a failure to feed. It usually was a pretty bad failure to feed, where I couldn't clear it very easily. I'm thinking, part of it was because the shell wasn't angled the same as the newer mags. This caused the bottom of the shell to catch on the lower "feed ramp" and deform really bad. The only thing I could really do was to lock the bolt back and remove

I noticed a couple people have gone through the trouble of taking 2 5rd mags and making one 10 rd mag out of them. I was wondering if any of those people kept their feed lips from the donor mag? You see, I have a old Saiga 12 mag that has a different designed feed lips and when I finally did a torture test on it, it turned out to be very unrealiable. I while back I posted a pic of this different type of mag if you want to see what I'm talking about. Anyway, I would be willing to pay for a replacement set of lips if anyone has some. Looking at the design, the lips should be interch

I'm with you on that! That mag doesn't look like the saiga swat mag, so it seems that the magwell could be custom... Maybe this an earlier version of the saiga swat? The extended mag release is really interesting.

LOL!! Gotta love the bunny suits!

I haven't had any problems with my saiga 12 except when I shot certain light loads with the magnum setting. Which should be a given(since it is the magnum setting), yet other light loads worked fine, and I haven't even broke mine in yet. I had a friend who supposedly had some problems with his saiga at a 3gun match, yet he didn't even remember them... some Benelli purist was saying he had all kinds of problems, but I think that was just BS he was making up because he has an un-natural hatred of AK firearms. All I know was that my friend did have the forearm on his Saiga come loose, due

I shot my converted 16" Saiga .308 w/ 8X PSOP this weekend and my best group at 100yds was Just under 4MOA... (I'm talking 8shot groups) This was with some south african surplus I traded for some austrailian surplus. Overall accuracy wasn't the greatest, but maybe with some better ammo it would be better. But, I'm convinced that with a better cheekweld, I would have better results. I'm thinking of getting a lace on cheek piece or something. One thing I noticed is that my groups tended to string vertically... so heat is probably causing the barrel to move and changing my point of impact or

Not only are they out, but they've been out since the 14th!!! So, if you placed an order after then, you're in for a LOOOOOONNNNNG wait. Site says that they expect to ship those orders placed after the 14th sometime in mid July... So, hopefully that means they expect a restock at that time. If they don't then we're SOL. The real kicker is that I placed my order on the 15th!!!! DOH!!!! Maybe you guys should think about pre-ordering?

Interesting... So, do you have a paradox choke? Is it a real pain to take off after firing? Buckshot thru rifling sounds fun. What kind of range do you get on that before it spreads too far to be effective? Thanks for the info.

I ordered a paradox choke recently. (Although I haven't received it yet) And I had some questions. Mainly it is in concern to whether or not I can use it with stuff other than slugs...? Like buckshot and the like. I want to know for convenience sake, more than function. It seems to me that once the paradox choke goes on and a shoot it a bit, the natural twisting motion of the slug going through rifling will really torque it down, and make it hard to take off. Is this the case? If it is, then it might be easier for me to leave it on when shooting other stuff like buckshot. This al

Are you using the stock hammer? If you are, I think that's a very bad idea... It's pretty obvious that the G2 FCG is different from the stock FCG, so you should use all of it's parts in order to have the most reliable function. I had the same problem as 6500rpm... and this may be your culprit. If the trigger bottoms out on the front side of the hole that is cut for the trigger, it won't move to its fullest extent. That will keep the front of your disconnector from touching the hammer, which is what gives you that 2 stage trigger pull. Look and see if there is enough of a gap betw

For that price, if these are reliable mags, I'd be in for at least 5.

Darn POSP scopes are always a bit too high because they allow you to still use the iron sights... I thought that with the sporterized stock it had an even worse cheekweld than with my warsaw length stock, but I tend to agree that the cheekweld still leaves much to be desired. My dad's Romak 3 was "okay" for cheekweld, but I thought that the pistol grip portion of the dragnov type stock was too puny and uncomfortable. Ak's aren't the most ergonomic of guns....

That's what I thought... Well, I guess the easiest thing would be to buy a new safety from kvar/blackjack/gunshow... Rook, if you have a conversion thread, you should get the moderator to make a sticky or something.

Ummm.... Who is "them"? I'd love to get some 8rounders.... heck even some 5rounders would be great