Rustynuts

Kind of a cold parkerizing. The phosphoric acid will microscopically etch the metal, adhere and form a great base coat for the "paint" (moly resin is technically a coating) to stick. The phos also acts like Naval Jelly and eradicates any flash rust you get after blasting and cleaning prior to spraying. Flash rust is a given here in Florida!

Considering the Tromix is $45, I have to agree it's too high. I guess since they've got some of the odd calibers and not just the S-12, they can charge what they want!

You basically loop the dental floss several times for strength through the circle in the spring and then down through the BHO slot in the receiver. While you are juggling three things with two hands you simultaneously pull down on the floss to get the spring circle lined up for the pin to slide through. When it's in you then simply cut or slide the floss free. You can also try to bend the end on the spring leg so it doesn't fall off the BHO lever so easily. Look here. http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=24599 I think the floss method also has a video on Youtube somewhere

I thought it was fairly common to notch the BHO. Haven't done mine yet, but thanks for the photo! I hadn't seen any photos of the "notch" before, so I was going to have to check over my gun to do it.

I left mine off. You hardly notice the holes with the Ace block backing them up. I may do the tapped hole thing as mentioned later. Seems like the better way to go.

That Ace fits together nice, BUT it still looks weird all stretched out.

I used a 4" cutting wheel on my angle grinder to get it down to 1/4-1/2" and then went at it with a metal flat file. No wonder they call them BASTARDS! What a pain.

Probably a Tapco set. Mine wasn't modded and I had to grind it. I think you can just use the old one no problems. My next one I did it right and bought a Tromix FCG.

Thanks, I think I'll try the drill method first. I usually grind off the guard and mill the rivets from the outside. Need to save the guard this time!

What is the "12C" configuration, and is it worth $3,500! Check this auction. http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=109559621

What's the best way to remove trigger guard without mangling it? My milling bit won't go all the way into the receiver on my drill press. The chuck will hit the receiver before the bit does its thing. Do most just drill them out, or are those rivets too hard? Use a full diameter bit, or a slightly smaller one, then punch the remainder out?

Unfortunately, on my 20, I used the grind off method and milled the rivets from the outside. Much easier that way, but the guard is destroyed in the process. No problem with my 12 since I just used the Tromix. Didn't realize the 20/410 guards were so scarce. I'm going to chop up a Tromix guard for my 20, but I'm about to start a 410 and want to see if the guard on it needs saved.

Without the vertical grip, looks like it would be painful to shoot!

Does everyone re-use the stock guard? Who has replacements for a 20 & 410? Use a normal AK guard?

Yes, on the block, a little off the top, and a little off the bottom! For the tang, it was a bit of elbow grease with a metal file. To get most of the tang off, I used an angle grinder VERY CAREFULLY! Then went to town with the file. I used some blue painters tape around the receiver during most of the filing. For the last little bit, you have to remove the tape and be careful until it good and flush. Touched up any stray marks with a bluing pen. Probably took me the better part of an hour to get the tang done.

The argument is not on the protector itself, it's the THREADS. By having them there, you "could" pop on a muzzle device in about 30-seconds. A bit similar to carbine AR-15's with the 14.5" barrels. The get to the "legal" 16", the muzzle device has to be affixed PERMANENTLY. You can't just thread it on. Same argument by the BATF, if it's not welded/pinned, you could take it off in 30-seconds thereby making it an SBR.

I know this is always contentious, but I thought a threaded Saiga HAD to be converted to slap a 10-rd mag on it based on parts count? This looks bone stock with an AGP slapped on! http://www.gunsonthenet.com/Auction/ViewIt...?Item=109035850

Possible, it was all pretty fast. But I think he may have even said pistol after Saiga though? Maybe it was "Sig pistol" or something.

Delete, dup post. Forum is acting flaky.

Got my Ace folding equipment on with the Ace internal block, and a new Tromix foregrip. Clearance is great on the folder. I was worried about it blocking my trigger finger as I wanted left fold and I'm a lefty. No problem as you see. Probably even room for side optic mount. Need to get rid of the Tapco PG later. Still need flash hider and new sights. The Tromix grip is MUCH better than the Tapco crud. The Ace internal block is right up there with the Tromix DIY trigger guard as an A+++ product. Once you get past filing the tang off, and fitting the block a little, snugs up solid with

In the beginning sequences an FBI agent's gun gets taken away before a raid. After the raid the other FBI agent then says he gave it to the foreign officer as a gift. I swear the first FBI agent then says "You GAVE him my Saiga!" Can't be sure though, could be hearing things. Does Saiga (Izhmash) make pistols, or Hollywood mistake?

+1. And next time I take mine apart, the BHO is getting notched so I can slide the selector in over it.

Easy solution, Tromix branded mags!

For the record. I just did the Ace Internal block conversion on my S-12. Slapped on an Ace push-button folding mechanism and an Ace 8.5" folding stock. Works great! No problems with clearance for the trigger finger and the mechanism holds the stock out far enough from the receiver that I think I can even use the side optics mount still. Have to get pics up later.