dry_gulcher

I hear that, I think the solution is "get both"

try putting a few drops of oil into the bolt itself as well, between the 2 pieces of it that rotate, until they feel smooth - mine was having a hard time rotating shut, but after I oiled it, you can ease the bolt carrier forward, let it go at the point that yours jams, and it will still lock up now

I found a trajectory calculator. It looks like if I'm zeroed at 25 yards, and 1.2" high at 50 yards, I'll be zeroed at 200 yards. http://accurateshooter.net/Downloads/pejsa...nballistics.xls is a pretty good ballistic calculator, as long as everything's supersonic. On something with the scope mounted so high, you might want to try just putting the scope on line of sight with the barrel - so you're always shooting low - it makes shooting on slopes a lot easier, and once you get used to it, isn't a disadvantage at all, with a scope like a POSP

cheaper than dirt has some of those flechettes, I think: http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/AMM005-57714-1395.html I'm no physics major, but wouldn't a higher velocity call for higher chamber pressures and a faster burning powder to get the same amount of energy by the end of the muzzle? even if it is for a shorter amount of time too much thinking...

I had the same problem with my AGP mag, usually it wouldn't be able to strip the last round off, or close on an empty mag. I'm not sure what happened to make it go away, but it's gone away - you could talk to AGP about getting a new follower too if you wanted to, but like everyone's said, just let it break in. Some guns need it more than others. If you have a large recoil buffer installed, take it out, and see how it does, or if you have a thin one too for that matter - sometimes they can make a big difference, especially with lighter loads on the heavy load setting. edit to add: any A

This isn't an official site, but I'd guess that if they don't have the transcripts here, they'll at least have links to them - SCOTUS Wiki. I know I'll have an eye on it most of tomorrow!

Definitely +1 for this site, as well as CDNN, when I was looking to order one a few years ago ($225 picked up from the gun shop for a 12 ) Might want to add one for videogames too, I know it's at least in a Battlefield game, and that could have drummed up a bit of interest

Thanks for the quick replies! I opened up the mag today, and I think I've got a better idea what's causing the catching. When I push down towards the front of the follower (at the front part of that orange line), it catches (I think the back bottom part of the follower digs into the bag of the mag body), and won't go down. If I push down in the middle, however, it goes down as easily as my 5 rounder, which I'd guess is why it's only the last round or an empty mag that gives me crap. I couldn't really find anything sticking up to sand, and all of the surfaces felt smooth, maybe I'll try put

Hey all, not too long ago I picked up one of the new 10-round AGP mags from Mississippi Auto Arms, and I've had one consistent problem with it so far that I don't think will go away as it gets broken in. The bolt catches on the mag follower (towards the front, before the steeper angle down) and can't close all the way. It's never been able to close under its own power (and I don't really feel like forcing it just to see how hard I have to push). This occurs whether the bolt has picked up the last round in the mag to feed into the chamber, or if the magazine is just empty. I'll put up some

Is that buttstock from BRG3 too? the metal plate's a pretty addition.

haha... i just looked at mine... and it's possibly worse than that. guess i'd better buy another

same here, mine cycles the cheap winchester stuff on "1", but the last round in the mag gets caught in the bolt about 70% of the time, which is OK i guess, makes reloading a lot easier, and no need for BHO! it does the same with the wolf target loads.

umm... unless I'm missing something, the "2" setting is for light loads, and the "1" setting is for magnum loads/all loads if you're lucky. you can double-check this by taking out the "1"/"2" position selector (it's threaded and unscrews) and looking at how its inside is cut. This is also addressed in the saiga forum's FAQ ( http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=262 ) It's not to great for the rear of the reciever/bolt carrier, especially on magnum loads, do you have a recoil buffer? if not, i'd highly recommend one, all that pounding can degrade performance rather quickly. edit:

sweet! thanks guys! I think i'll probably try the trap first - my gun's a fixed full choke. I like how quick and easy the Saiga comes to bear on targets, for me at least. A couple of times i've used it while on my uncle's ranch in Montana, spotlighting from the pickup truck. I enjoyed how well it handled, and I often got off the first (and usually last) shot before my friends could get their semi .22's up (yes, all that's legal out there). I was disappointed though - after getting 4 jackrabbits and a little cottontail, I packed up and hopped in the cab so my friends could have some fun, and ab

Hi everyone, a couple quick questions: I've got one of those 22" saiga-12's with the woodtech finish from CDNN (if it makes any difference) and noticed that if you ease the charging handle forward, instead of letting the spring slam it foward and closed, it closes most of the way, but not all the way, and the bolt doesn't rotate far enough to lock in. When you pull the trigger, the hammer hitting the bolt carrier is enough force to lock it down (i know, it's a bad thing to dry fire a gun), but i was just curious - what would happen if i tried it with a shell in it, would it lock before the sh