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johnnymceldoo

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Everything posted by johnnymceldoo

  1. Im in Ohio. They do come finished with duplicolor semi gloss engine paint. These are baked after they are coated and are very scratch resistant and pretty close to factory finish. For questions you can e-mail at johnnymceldoo@yahoo.com
  2. IM curious to see how many saiga12 owners have the siaga with the polychoke and how many of you would have an interest in a flash hider that would screw onto the existing threads. This would be basically the same design as the set screw and 7/8-28 version I made only it would have the same thread size as the saiga polychoked shotgun. Here is what they look like if you hadnt seen them before.
  3. If I know what thread size and pitch I could make one but Id need your thread protector to make a thread gauge of some sort so I knew thread pitch was good. E-mail me for questions so we dont hijack the thread. johnnymceldoo@yahoo.com
  4. I dont know what m14 length is. There is no slot in the 12 o'clock position. I think if you milled slots into the barrel the shot would try go out the slot or at least enough to knick the edge and mess up the spread. These cost $70 shipped and can be threaded on or slip-on with two set screws. I have a die guide you can rent if you want to thread your own barrel to accept the threaded version. Tony Rumore also makes a FH that is a little cheaper. Theres a pic around here somewhere of it.
  5. Did you ever do a more involved test as to it's effectiveness as a FH? Nice stand-off weapon features. -P. Yes I did test the effectivness of the the FH and it works pretty good.
  6. I made some of these in my spare time. More of a FH than a brake though. Theres a handful of guys here that have one.
  7. EXCELLENT!!!! WHERE did you SCORE that handguard??? thats VERY COOL!!! Also... more info on the muzzlebreak??? how did it attach, and where from??? Thanks!!! The handgaurd is from tapco and was modified to fit. The FH is my own brew. They attatch either by two set screws or are threaded. If you want more info you can e-mail me. johnnymceldoo@yahoo.com
  8. This is a problem with just about any semiautomatic that uses gas to operate. Its an easy fix so I dont know what all the commotion is over. so then what is the easy fix?? Open the gas ports of course. I suppose there is a limit to the length you can cut off though until you have to move the whole gas system back as Tomy has done.
  9. This is a problem with just about any semiautomatic that uses gas to operate. Its an easy fix so I dont know what all the commotion is over.
  10. You made some good points and heat placement IS key. "Heating to 500 works if your burning a turkey at thanksgiving, but wont help in removal." I can only share what worked for me and heating it up did. I dont just make stuff up so people will try it and fail "You can pound on it with a hammer all night long, the results will be bigger forearms and thats about it." Again, I didnt use a press to get mine off and was able to carefully knock the block off once I had it heated up. Its no big deal provided you have the right tools. Some of you guys act like this thing has .01 press
  11. HAHAHAHAH REALLY? sounds a tad extreme to me ,dude! Yea? Well its either that or setup some sort of split plate base on a press or send it to a smith who will either press it off some way or beat it off.
  12. No you can beat if off. You just have to have a good hard mallet or peice of wood to hit it with. After I got it off I polished the barrel surface a little so it was easier to get off and on. Also, dont forget: heat makes metal expand. http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=2457[/iurl]
  13. I heated my gas block up to about 500 degress F so I didnt have to bag it so hard. This will make it easier for the taking of it.
  14. IVe got some left along with a threading tool you can use to thread your own barrel. So far everyone had had great success using the die guide.
  15. I opened mine up some more to .110" because light loads would not reliably cycle. I split one of the two hole locations creating a small space between them. I tested it over the weekend and it ran fine even with the light loads. Had it been too much I could have tigged the gap up letting less gas through.
  16. I used # drill bits. Ive actually enlarged the ports to .110 since the other day. I found that veryu light target loads did not want to fully eject whereas before they did. The only problem with stepping up to .110 is you can split the triangle shape of the ports(break through to another port hole) if your not careful. When I enlarged the ports to .110 the gap seperating one port to the next disapeared. This will let more gas in Im sure. If it lets too much in I'll have to fill it in via the tig welder but we'll see what happens. My goal is to barely get away with shooting very light loads
  17. Shucks it got deleted and I missed out on any comments or questions the poster may have had regarding my informative link. Oh well, Im glad I could help out.
  18. you should look at the actual law. if it says "clip" and not magazine.. then you are safe ;-) ROFL!!! smart ass! :-)~
  19. I see you just posted this today and I appologize for just getting to respond to your question. Ive been at work all day and therefore have not been online. http://www.cross-conn.com/Saiga_Conversion/ Again Iam sorry it has taken so long to get a response.
  20. I had a discussion with my foreman and shopowner about making a die to make steel mags. We specialize in building dies, molds, punches and gauges etc. We can build a die no doubt about it. The problem is the cost and uncertainty as to if it would be profitable. Lets face it the saiga 12 gauge is not a very popular shotgun right now but has enourmous potential now that the AWB is gone. I believe interests will increase dramatically so long as they keep being imported. But thats a whole other problem as well. Id love to see US mags too and especially be a part of building the machinery that
  21. I glad some of you enjoyed this post. Its nice to see pics and walkthroughs on things you havnt done before and not have to fret or figure out what to do next.
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