Leo.Kermes

Viking Kitty Armory, Inc. Mailing Address PO BOX 2557 Tallahassee, FL 32316

Last night I used the kit, and it works great. The handle is spring loaded and hold just the right amount of pressure on the cutting head. the carbide cuts effortlessly. Pricy, but well worth it

well you would have to remove the stock, drive out the pivot pin holding the retaining spring, pull the spring out the back. Then remove the two froward pivot pins, switch out hammer and sear, and then put it all back together. Yeah you're right its less work .

well you could put in the hammer and the disconnect from tapco w/o converting, but the amount of work it is you might as well do it all.

You have to love russian consistency

The captain of a charter boat I worked on as a kid had a 10 gauge. my shoulder still hurts twenty years later.

it should come right off move the lever up alittle more. or back. its just a small spring that hold pressure to the block.

I do most of my shooting off a sand bag rest. So I just use the factory mag, when the water melons attack the south I use a surefire. And when the SHTF I have some of the older all steel Surefire mags

20ga because the gun is cheaper, and available Ultimak make a rail, and polychoke is avalable for it

Someone told me that the grooves work in a way similar to the dimples on a golf ball the pressure equalizes around the grooves and helps to keep it centered as it travels. Same as the puck pistons on the shotguns. I am thinking to speedup my production I will add this piston to my guns and then keep the original russian hammer. shaping and re-case hardening the tapco hammer is a pain. How are you case hardening the hammers? I've never done an AK hammer, I case harden flintlock frizzens. For small parts you can get away with a mapp gas torch for heat, rather than more expensive ace

Someone told me that the grooves work in a way similar to the dimples on a golf ball the pressure equalizes around the grooves and helps to keep it centered as it travels. Same as the puck pistons on the shotguns. I am thinking to speedup my production I will add this piston to my guns and then keep the original russian hammer. shaping and re-case hardening the tapco hammer is a pain.

we got a set of them at our shop, they survived our torture test and work with out error. they dont require any modifications to the gun. The only negative is that there are no metal inserts for the catch.

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?s=&amp...st&p=213585

I looked in to investment castings, but the cost is too much. http://www.precisionmetalsmiths.com/

Stainless Steel, lighter, better concavity, I think Tapco wins. Your thoughts?

I really want to shoot at it.

Take the dust cover off, push in the recoil spring assembly in, and rotate it clock wise a few times to get the little dust cover on the assembly to sit flat against the bolt carriage. Put the assembly back in the groove and put the dust cover back on.

This would work for the missing pivot pin. http://www.k-var.com/shop/product.php?prod...=302&page=1

that is fucked up

nude Saigas

Isn't it nice to have a photo showing the differences.

I would take a part the bolt, clean up the damage with a file and then case hard the bolt http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/pro...ail.aspx?p=7626 if the shelf doesn't match your other s12 then reshape it to match, also harden that surface as well. that wear looks excessive.

Can you post a photo?

I find that the police like the warsaw kvar stock for when they are in body armor.

Tapco vs Kvar