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mtjccmotel

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About mtjccmotel

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    Oregon
  1. Looks good! Nice to craft the stocks custom to the user.
  2. If you have a good quality tap set already, I'd use the quality tools that you know. Can't comment on the tap that comes in the kit as I have never seen it.
  3. I would thread the barrel to 5/8-24 as you will have more options for brakes/flash suppressors. My barrel was .671" I originally started with just the die and lots of cutting fluid for 5/8-24 but didn't like how much force it took to cut the threads. I removed the die and filed/sanded the barrel down a bit took it to .640" then finished cutting the threads to 5/8-24. Just go slow with a file and keep your round profile of the barrel and you'll do fine. Use a light cutting file preferably one that doesn't have cutting teeth on the side. I also took a 14mmL AMD brake and rethreaded to 5/8-24
  4. Another inexpensive solution (not mine, but I do use it and it works) the foam pipe insulation you pick up at the hardware store that is approx 3/4-1" pipe insulation has outside diameter of approx 2" works pretty good for getting good cheekweld. Just cut a piece the same length as the stock. and stick it on. Duct tape helps hold it in place. You can buy a more expensive cheek riser when funds permit, but at least you can shoot the riffle comfortably in the meantime.
  5. Can't comment on flash reduction as I have not shot the gun in low light with the brake on, but with the 21" barrel there is normally little fireball. I tend to shoot reloads which also reduces muzzle flash. Will post a pick of low light shooting as soon as I can. Patriot thanks for the advice on the top ports. I think I'll start with two holes that are 7/64" (if I remember correctly I think the bit is what I used for the 3mm FSB pins) and move up from there, but I'll take your suggestion regarding 90 degrees to bore and chamfering. Will keep you all updated with progress. On another not
  6. Thought about drilling the brake haven't decided, but if so I will start small. While I am at it I may angle the holes a few degrees toward the shooter and see if I can get more recoil reduction. The nice thing about modifying this brake as it is not an expensive loss if it becomes a paperweight.
  7. Got a chance to shoot last week with the recent modifications. As far as handling and balance is concerned not that much difference with the modified AMD brake. There is definitely less muzzle jump, can't really tell if there is less recoil as the 308 recoil never bothered me before. I notice recoil based on my mood and how focussed I am on proper shooting techniques. Fired a few shots without ear protection and while it is a bit louder it is not so bad that it is painful. The brake is not quite effective enough to control the muzzle jump to the point that you can watch your bullets impac
  8. I second, Indy's response. I reload my brass the dented cases are not an issue. I believe they would be if they were going back into a precision bolt gun. I can't document any difference in performance from the AK based on the dent vs. non-dented case. They also shoot just fine out of my daughter's custom Winchester Model 88 (lever action).
  9. Don't know how it shoots yet as just completed today and between kids coming home from school and the poor weather of the Pacific NW haven't got chance to take it out in the woods. I plan on reporting back as soon as I do.
  10. I finally completed the modification of an AMD-65 Brake and attached it to my S308. Bored the brake out on a lathe increasing the diameter from the 14mm left hand thread and tapped the brake for 5/8"-24. Used lathe to create a TAT out of aluminum which was rather interesting as the aluminum did not like threading on the lathe very cleanly, but no worries since the 5/8"-24 die cleaned it up nicely. After moving my FSB back my barrel was .670". I started threading my barrel with the die but didn't like how much pressure was put on the die removing as much metal was required to thread the .67
  11. I have a Lee Loadmaster and while it is great when it is up and running it takes time to set up and get dialed in. What ever progressive press you end up with take the time to make sure every step is set up and operating correctly. Develop a consistent accurate routine and stick to it. As far as powder goes I like Hodgdon Titegroup for the pistols. I would also make sure to get carbide dies. Also should have good dial caliper. Berry's Mfg makes good copper plated bullets that are relatively inexpensive when bought in bulk.
  12. Last I checked the regulations for Oregon minimum caliber .22 Centerfire for Deer. Went ahead and reconfirmed my memory. Oregon 2012 Large Game regs lists on page 30 .22 cal Centerfire legal on all mammals with exception of .24 Centerfire minimum cal for Elk, Mt. Goat, and Big Horn Sheep. http://www.dfw.state.or.us/resources/hunting/big_game/regulations/docs/2012_big_game_regs.pdf
  13. Lee Precision is a top rate company at reasonable prices. I have used their presses and dies for almost 10 years now. I prefer their dies over RCBS.
  14. Good point I will dummy up as you suggested, as my friend has a machine shop cutting it down in the future would not be a problem.
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