MikeV

Hello all, I am in need of a little help. I am building my own stock adapter to use a Ace or Tromix stock but I don't know where to drill the holes for the mounting screws. If anyone out there can measure their backplate or stock and tell me about where the holes should be drilled I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you for any help. Mike.

Thanks for the info Cobra. I do prefer poly over steel in most all mags but in the case of the AK mag I just don't feel poly is strong enough for the rear catch, but from what I read the Bulgy mags are steel reinforce which is the best of both worlds. I am not dead set on the Galil mags by any means but I like to tinker with things and they are cheap. If they had worked that would have been great but since they don't I'll try some Bulgy mags next. Just to make sure we are talking about the same thing are these the Bulgy Circle 10's? http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx

Well today I played with the feed lips a little and ran a full mag with no problems. I know that this does not mean much reliability wise but I'm still playing with it. Cobra, I might end up going with the Bulgy mags but I like steel mags over plastic, plus the Galil mags are half the price. Of course that does not mean anything if they don't work 100%. With the bullet guide I made the bottom end of the guide drops into the mag well, by doing this I have to file a little off the top of front catch of what ever mag I use so they are super tight with no play at all. What is the conse

I only bought one steel mag as I did not want to waste money on mags that would not work. I compared the feed lips on the steel Galil with the one on the Tapco Galil and the Tapco mag has a smaller gap. Tomorrow when I get home I'll close the feed lips on the steel mag and see what happens and I'll try the Tapco Galil.

Double post some how. Mods delete please.

Hello all. I've been wanting to use cheap mags so I had to break down install a bullet guide. I made my own to tighten up steel Galil mags as they are the only cheap mags that I trust to not break. I broke my Tapco Galil mag just by hitting the bottom with a little force. Anyway I got the guide installed and fed to rounds through by hand and everything worked great, but when I loaded up a mag and fired it I had problems. I fired 5-6 rounds and had the weapon jam. I got to looking at what happened and it looks like after the bolt strips a round off of the mag the bolt carrier also strip

Hello all. I've been wanting to use cheap mags so I had to break down install a bullet guide. I made my own to tighten up steel Galil mags as they are the only cheap mags that I trust to not break. I broke my Tapco Galil mag just by hitting the bottom with a little force. Anyway I got the guide installed and fed to rounds through by hand and everything worked great, but when I loaded up a mag and fired it I had problems. I fired 5-6 rounds and had the weapon jam. I got to looking at what happened and it looks like after the bolt strips a round off of the mag the bolt carrier also strip

Ok I got enough time today to take her out in back and see what she could do. First off I mounted a semi-cheap scope to see what kind of accuracy I could get from a "sandbag". (The target is just left of the Evergreen tree) I was able to get it sighted in at 100yds in less then 10 rounds using Wolf 55gr and was fairly pleased with the accuracy.(1.5-2.0MOA) Then I tried some Remington 55gr FMJ from wal-mart and was surprised with the result. (3 shot group) This was the best group I got that I could not do a second time.Every other group that I shot (3-5 shot)

Thanks for the info guys. I think that at this point my buddy is going with the long barrel and then maybe cut it down later. Thanks. Mike.

that does look good! how much you want to the original skeleton stock? Thanks guys I can't wait to get some more ammo try her out. Sorry Sarduy, I already sold the stock to my bro. Mike.

I finished the rest of my conversion today and thought I'd share.(The pics suck I know) -ATI Strikeforce folding stock. -Tapco SAW pistol grip. -Tapco G2 double hook FCG. -Surefire 30rd .223 mags Before. After. Not too shabby for a first conversion I guess.

Hey everyone I was hoping that could help me or rather my friend. I got a buddy who is looking at getting a Saiga in .308 but has a question about barrel length. What he is wanting to know is what is the optimum barrel length for the .308? Not a long barrel VS. short barrel question.( well kinda I guess) I understand that the 16" is more accurate because of the barrel harmonics and that the 22" can "whip" making it a little less accurate? I also understand that the 22" has more velocity then the 16" because it is longer. Does anyone know what the best barrel lengt

Mike, Yes it locks in the closed postiion. As for the muzzle brake, wait until next week. We are getting the production run of the muzzle brakes and flash hiders that do not require threads. Scott Thanks Scott, just what I wanted to hear about the stock as I the ordered the stock kit and conversion parts yesterday. I guess I should have checked here before I ordered so I could have waited for the muzzle brakes, oh well I guess I will just have to order one later. Thanks. Mike

Thanks for the info all. Once I get the time to start making a FH I will just take pics from start to finish to prove that I made it. Thanks again. Mike.

From what I understand about 922r if I want to put a "muzzle device" on my soon to be converted .223 it has to be U.S. made to keep my parts count low enough to use high cap mags, but I was wondering if I can make my own flash hider on my lathe at home and still have it legal? It would technically be made in the USA since I, well, live in the USA. It would be nice if I could do this and save myself $30. Thanks for any info. Mike.