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emr454

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Posts posted by emr454

  1. Oh, I don't know. I guess it depends on the condition of the barrel. $200 maybe?

     

    I wouldn't be bothered if it didn't have furniture either. I've already got a lower hg. Having both sight blocks, gas block, and gas tube are the most important for me right now. Let me know what they say.

  2. I would advise sheet metal for durability. Not that I really expect the kydex to fail, but a piece of metal retained by rivets or your PG nut isn't going anywhere.

     

    Glad it helped someone.

    I used the bolt at the rear of the trigger guard to hold it in, much like your washer pic. However when I did my conversion, I drilled the hole for the rear of the trigger guard a little too far forward, and I couldn't get a washer in there. I could easily make one out of sheet metal though.

     

    Eric

  3. People have been asking me about this a bit lately, so I figure I will try to shove all the info into one thread. I know for a fact there are old threads with lots of good pictures including some that show welded equivalents, and releiving clearance as is sometimes needed on Arsenal hooks....

     

    Anyway, here are some crummy pictures of an RSA trigger group. The bit you need to see is the silver washer that the trigger can rest on in the back. I could not get good pictures in the IZ108 with modified G2, because I used a square piece of steel painted black to match into the receiver. It is in the same place as the fender washer. Anything metal will work there if it is the right thickness and you have a simple way to keep it stationary. IMO the easy way is to use the rivet or screw that holds the back of your trigger guard on the outside to hold the spacer on the inside.

     

     

    attachicon.gif0229122122.jpg

     

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    I just did this mod today to my 7.62 and S-12, but used a piece of .060" kydex I had laying around. So far so good. May or may not replace them with washers or a sheet metal square.

     

    Eric

  4. Hell yes. Saveable. You truely don't need to weld and redrill. A good rivet squisher can fill the holes and make it solid. I would use it.

     

    weld the hloes that need welding, use it.

     

    Sweet! Now I need to get the rest of the parts.

     

    Do you or anyone you know do build parties? I have no AK building tools and I'm really starting from scratch on this one

  5. I got this Saiga receiver in a trade a few years ago and just found it again today. Not sure why someone would hack up a Saiga though?

     

    Anyway, when the front and rear trunnions were removed, the rivets weren't drilled on center, so some of the holes in the receiver are slightly out of round now. It doesn't appear that anything else on the receiver is messed with, so I was wondering if the holes can be welded and re-drilled? I've attached a few pics of the receiver, below.

     

    Anyone in the CNY area that has experience welding on guns/receivers? I'm about 30 minutes east of Syracuse and I wouldn't mind driving a bit if I can find someone that can fix this.

     

    Eric

     

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  6. I don't know if the BHO in the Saiga 5.45 is the same but im picking one up in a few week's if its still available and ill give it to you for free if i get the rifle.

     

    Sweet! I don't know for sure on interchangeability between 7.62 and 5.45, but I'd be willing to try it. Thanks man

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