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Gunfixr

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Everything posted by Gunfixr

  1. Well, the guns are already gone, and I'm not going to post pics or details until I decide whether I'm going to market it or not. First, I want to be sure that there won't be any problems with the original developer, as it's not originally my design. He did it about 10yrs ago. It does require permanent modification to the receiver in front of the magwell, and there's no going back w/o welding once it's done. However, it works. Just shove the mag straight in, and it locks, and no mods to the mag. I couldn't try it with a drum, as it has sides, which act as a magwell, and prevent a drum
  2. Well, except for directly copying my design, and then selling it cheaper. We'll wait to see what happens with this plug, as I have been playing with one also, and know the problems they can have. If he's addressed those, great.
  3. I currently have two S12s with just such a setup in the shop now for conversion, although one has been finished, and the other will be here shortly. They will be gone soon. They both do have side guildes, sort of a magwell. No, I didn't do them. The fellow who did more than likely won't be doing any more, as he has suffered a serious injury, and can't do much now. I haven't yet decided whether or not I will do any. I do think it needs a bit of improvement, although it works as is. The mags require no modifications. Drums won't work, but should if the guides on either side were
  4. Yeah, at the time,I wasn't really thinking about the short guns. Mostly, it was about more efficiency, and the ability to adjust without tools. My new one is also a bypass design. I have one, 2 actually, but a newer prototype, and there is the rub. It works in a regular gun, but put it in a short gun, and it's spotty. Still tinkering. I don't have much time to mess with it, though. Too much other crap going on, and I'm way behind.
  5. Unless there's something wrong with the plug itself, ie, it's defective, then there is another problem. Are either the ports blocked, or is the puck missing? The Gunfixr plug still uses a puck. To see if the plug is defective, draw a line down the side from one of the gas channels in the end where it meets the puck to the handle end. The shallowest one is #1, and the deepest one is #3. Screw in the plug until it locks into the detent. If you drew the line from say the deepest one (#3), then when the detent with the number 3 is at the spring loaded plunger, your line should be at the bottom
  6. I looked into a patent, and it's rather more expensive than it appears. Actually, my plug is quite different than the factory plug, not just an improvement. They're both plugs, and that's pretty much where it ends. The size of the ball end mill is the same used on both plugs. Setting 3 is identical on both plugs, they primarily differ on the depth of setting 1 and 2. I don't think Tac 47s plug has the cuts going as close to the center as I do, but really that doesn't have a whole lot of effect on performance.
  7. Interesting. I knew you had done one, and more or less shelved it. I also knew someone else had done one similar to mine, before mine, but with more positions, and shelved it. If either of you had marketed yours, I probably would've never marketed mine. I actually only made me one for myself, and everybody wanted one, so I marketed them. I believe my other one is simpler, I need to finish it.
  8. They are not, period. Either your programmer doesn't know what he's doing, no one checked the parts to see before starting the run, or you're just lying. Pick one. I would say your encoder needs replacing, but then if it did, the machine wouldn't cut threads at all correctly, so it's not that.
  9. Since your threads start randomly, and the gas block threads start randomly, how can this even be possible??? Simply, it's not, and the gas block tests I did proved that out.
  10. So soon we forget. I'll show you where you made claims about my plug versus yours, and you can see for yourself. I'll have to resurrect your original thread.
  11. I'm not sure what's with the personal jab. Trailer park ??? I don't live in a trailer park, and haven't in about 18-20yrs. There aren't any trailer parks anywhere near 64 where I live, so again, your info is off. You claimed that your plugs are all threaded the same, and they are not. The alignment is determined by the relationship of the spring loaded pin detents to the gas channels. You claimed that your plug aligns perfectly in every gun, unlike mine. It is rather clear by your statements that you aren't quite sure how it works, only that it does. You simply focused on getting it to wo
  12. Well, if they've issued a recall, aren't they offering to pay you your money back, or give you a replacement?
  13. Well, Tac 47 has come out with a gas plug, and is claiming that it isn't a copy of mine, which they used to sell, but their own design, and actually an improvement over my design. They have made some claims that seem a bit audacious about this plug. So, to see just what this is all about, I have acquired 2 of Tac 47s plugs, without telling them who I was. I paid for them with my own money. I did not install them in a gun, as this is not specifically a performance test. Although peformance can be roughly judged by the past performance of my plug, and the differences or similarities that these
  14. Got Wishbone's Saiga painted. He's a member here, and a personal friend of mine. We had done the conversion awhile back. The rifle was done in a frehand pattern, using 6 colors. Also done were 2 30rd mags and a 15rd mag, as well as 2 scope mounts with scopes, one a conventional scope, and the other a red dot scope, and a tac light. Not only do the mags, light, and scopes match the rifle, but they match the particular area of the rifle that they cover. Anyway, on to the pics:
  15. First, let me say that I'm not here to shit in someone elses thread. I have nothing against Tac 47, and copies of my plug were inevitable. Nobody copies junk, so it's a good thing in a way. So, on my plug, the original design is for the threads to start in the same position in relation to the gas passages and detent notches. They are supposed to be made that way. The problem is that the threads in the guns' gas block do not always start the same. You can put the same plug in different guns, and it will stop in different places on each one. To answer the o-ring question, the heat woul
  16. Just like Carolina SS said, screw it in all the way. Then, back it out to -1. After that is +1, 2, and 3. Each higher number gives more gas flow. The locking pin acts as a detent pin only, and will stick out more as you back out the plug. The "clicks" are the pin hitting the detent notches.
  17. I saw it, way back when it was on cable. I thought it was pretty good. It was fairly brutal, but that's how war is. I wouldn't mind owning a copy, but I wouldn't pay huge bucks for it.
  18. Yeah, it's called "Glock finger". Anyway, it's a pretty simple fix. You can do it in the gun, or remove the trigger/trigger bar first, it's up to you. Hold the little safety in all the way, bottomed out, and of course you'll see that it still protrudes some. Take either your dremel with a sanding drum on it, or some emery cloth on a dowel or half round file, and sand it down until it's flush with the trigger. If you want, you can sand the grooves in the trigger face down some, or all the way, making a smooth trigger. Your option. MAKE SURE THAT THE TRIGGER SAFETY IS FULLY DEPRESSED WH
  19. The internet may be big, but it ain't that bad. I know it's a gun forum. I have a pair already. I'm just tired of the bullshit. To me, this wasn't a joking kind of thread. Maybe for you the lines are a bit blurred. Since it's a GUN FORUM, maybe the "filler" could be saved for the "filler" section.
  20. If that's all it took to make you cry, I feel sorry for you. I am not an engineer, just guy who works on guns for a living. I know how the system works, and so tried to explain it in terms anybody could understand. Next time, I'll just stay quiet, and you can explain it. Between your crying, and others picking my explanation apart. Every time I log on here, I get more reasons to take a longer time before I come back. Further proof that no good deed goes unpunished.
  21. I used to shoot CAS, and load all BP cartridges. I washed all my brass in water to neutralize the corrosiveness of the fouling. Have left the brass in water for a month or so with no ill effects. Did it monthly for years. Unless it's pretty hot, the quickest way to dry it out is in the oven. The brass will get mostly dry, but the primer pocket wil hold water for some time unless it's been deprimed. In the oven, it'll all dry.Lay it out in one layer on a large cookie sheet. Put in the oven at about 220 degrees, for about 30 minutes. I just then turn the oven off and let them slow cool in the o
  22. It's a short-stroke piston system. The regular AK uses a long stroke piston system. The M1 Carbine, the M14/M1A, and the Ruger Mini 14 also use this system. The piston (puck) moves only a short distance, imparting a thrusting force to the bolt carrier. It then stops moving, having bottomed out in it's carrier, and the bolt carrier continues on from the impetus alone. Although not exactly the same, it is similar in concept to the swinging balls you see on peoples' desks. The one where there is a frame with several steel balls hanging in it on strings, and when one is drawn back and
  23. Actually, I had considered going back to the original, primarily to eliminate any possibilities of friction. Just haven't decided. It is interesting to watch this thread (d)evolve.
  24. I'll have to try the heat sink in the gas block. Don't know why I didn't think of that, use a heat sink when welding Mauser bolt handles, same principle. Definately TIG, as soldering means heating up the whole thing to temp. I very often drill the holes in the cover, and plug from the bottom. I've done the Tromix rail that way too. Shame Tony quit making those, but I understand why. I usually reshape the bottom of the front, and take a small amount out, to make it match the contour of the gas block better. I have drilled the sides of the front base, and plug welded that on, but the eha
  25. Annealing, or softening, doesn't involve quenching, but letting the part slow cool naturally after heating. At first, I cut them off with a Dremel, using a cutoff wheel, and going from inside the plate to not damage the trigger guard. Now, I drill them out with a 3/16" carbide end mill, then just twist it off. I use the hole to plug weld it back on later. I drill all the rivets the same way. I just cut down the heads flush, and tap the trigger guard and plate off. In less than 5 minutes, it's all done.
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