LKB3rd
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Posts posted by LKB3rd
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Is it possible to get a picture of what you are talking about? I think I could help you out. Just want to know what parts your talking about.
I don't have a digi cam, but I'll try to be more clear. It is the hook that grabs the hammer, on the trigger part. As the hammer cocks, it is the piece just forward of where the hammer sits when cocked that hooks onto the forward part of the hammer. When I am trying to field strip it, after I remove the spring and attempt to push the bolt carrier all the way to the rear, I am pretty sure it is the bolt that is hitting the very top of the hook piece. If I depress the trigger, it moves it forward and down, and it clears it. Like I already mentioned, it doesn't seem to be hitting it when assembled, but that could be because the bolt carrier isn't allowed to travel far enough back.
I think that I could probably adjust it so that it sits more forward and down. I just wanted to know if this is common/normal, or if I should remedy it before my next range session with it. It has started happening recently, I noticed it after my last range trip when field stripping to clean.
I think I know what you're talking about. I believe I had the same problem with my conversion using the RSA FCG.
First thing you want to do is brush some white-out on the top of any part of the FCG that you think might be hanging up on the bolt. Then slide the bolt back and do what you need to do to field strip it. Then look to see where the bolt is hitting the white-out on the FCG.
I had to file down the top-most part of the FCG substantially. This top-most part of the FCG is the 45 degree elbow that sits above the sear. I confirmed with RSA that this was OK. I recommend you do so also. I filed down more than I needed to just clear the bolt for fieldstripping because I noticed from using the white-out test that the FCG elbow I'm talking about was being pushed aside by the bolt and was also causing a step of resistance when I pulled the bolt back all the way.
I dremeled and hand filed 5000th of an inch at a time. Keep testing with the white-out. I hope this answers your question. Good luck.
Yes it does. The white out idea is a good one, and I'll do that.
Thanks!
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Is it possible to get a picture of what you are talking about? I think I could help you out. Just want to know what parts your talking about.
I don't have a digi cam, but I'll try to be more clear. It is the hook that grabs the hammer, on the trigger part. As the hammer cocks, it is the piece just forward of where the hammer sits when cocked that hooks onto the forward part of the hammer. When I am trying to field strip it, after I remove the spring and attempt to push the bolt carrier all the way to the rear, I am pretty sure it is the bolt that is hitting the very top of the hook piece. If I depress the trigger, it moves it forward and down, and it clears it. Like I already mentioned, it doesn't seem to be hitting it when assembled, but that could be because the bolt carrier isn't allowed to travel far enough back.
I think that I could probably adjust it so that it sits more forward and down. I just wanted to know if this is common/normal, or if I should remedy it before my next range session with it. It has started happening recently, I noticed it after my last range trip when field stripping to clean.
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If I don't pull the trigger slightly, the bolt carrier hangs up on the piece on the trigger that holds back the hammer, during a field strip. I am concerned about it hitting it hard under fire and breaking off, and going into full auto slam fire mode. With the spring in, assembled, it doesn't appear to hang up when hand cycling. It is an RSA adjustable fcg. Is that what causes the trigger slap back I have read about? Should I adjust it so it sits slightly forward and clears the bolt, or is this normal?
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I also cut mine slightly further back than the factory cut, not on purpose. Turns out it works just as well, no problems at all.
So, there isn't an *exact* location it has to be to work. You can flex the trigger guard to fit a small range of locations, and as long as the trigger guard fits, and the PG doesn't hang off the back of the receiver, I think it will work fine. Mine does.
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what is the price of the fbmg mags?
$45 each for 20 round .308
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I just ordered 3 tonight using that number. Thanks Correia.
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I called them last week and they told me they weren't taking orders but their website would be up this week, and taking orders. I haven't followed up on checking their site.
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You could remove the old one and install it(pg) b4 you add the new fcg.
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1. No personal experience/your personal preference
2. see above
3. Yes, very easy. Hardest part is working inside the receiver. A pair of needle nose pliers pretty much solves that.
4. The two pins that hold a trigger linkage, just above the original trigger on a Saiga x39 are not present on the .308. It has the weird swept back trigger. Forward/AK trigger opening is under the plate on bottom of the receiver. Pistol grip nut cutout may or may not need to be cut by you.
5. It's the lever that allows you to lock the action open.
6. right
7. not a question
8. I don't have any experience with that
9. Piston is a compliance part, probably would need to be fitted for the .308. Not necessary unless you need more compliance parts. Replace the gas tube with one with upper handguard brackets if you choose to use regular AK front handguards. Needs to be fitted, or bought from Dinzag fitted by him.
10. FBMG and Surefire are the most commonly used aftermarket .308 mags for Saiga's. I am still using the factory 8 rounder, but I am going to order some FBMG 20 rounders shortly.
Good luck, I bet you'll enjoy the process *almost* as much as the finished product if you are anything like me, and apparently others here.
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Mine needed the hole to be cut. It needed to go right where the trigger cut was in the unconverted state, so I just widenened the trigger cut in the right place with a small triangle file that is meant for guitar fret filing.
ETA: woops. Did threads get merged, or did i answer twice lol?
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The denting happens when the spent casings are ejected. So far as I can tell, they hit the rear corner of the dust cover , and occasionally the charging handle.
I used "goo" in those two spots and it 90% solved the problem. Occasional small dings.
Others use automotive slip on molding, or a valmet ejection buffer for the same purpose.
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You've just got to be careful about violating 922R by sticking that foreign made saiga mag in a rifle.
But...I thought 'regular' AK mags were foreign made too?
You'd have to convert enough other parts to get it 922r compliant.
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http://www.blackjackbuffers.com/index.php?...104a0dbef84ddc8
.30 cal bore, 14:1 lh thread.
Isn't the x51 slightly larger daimeter than a x39? Will this brake work on my Saiga .308?
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I am purchasing my first Saiga, a .308, soon and am preparing to convert it. From my understanding under the trigger guard plate there is the hole for the new trigger, is this correct? Also, I have heard that not all Saigas already have a hole for the pistol grip nut. Does the .308 version have this cutout already?
1. Yes, the hole is covered under the plate on the bottom of the receiver
2. Mine needed to have it cut (pg attachment hole). I did it with a triangle file made for guitar fret filing, but it is easier I am sure with a dremel attachment of some sort. Not sure if all .308's need this cut or not.
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It's my understanding that the original finish is a heat resistant black paint, and that paint used on bbq gas grills works to touch up any bare spots.
Ironwood has wood stock sets for x39, but you'll need a new gas tube with retainers on it for the upper front, and a retainer for the lower handguard. I just got a 4 piece ironwood set installed and I got the hardware from Dinzag.
Pictures?
Don't have them yet. My finishing 101 class should be done shortly, and I am going to post pics in the .308 pic thread when I can.
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It's my understanding that the original finish is a heat resistant black paint, and that paint used on bbq gas grills works to touch up any bare spots.
Ironwood has wood stock sets for x39, but you'll need a new gas tube with retainers on it for the upper front, and a retainer for the lower handguard. I just got a 4 piece ironwood set installed and I got the hardware from Dinzag.
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I used some automotive "goo" on the spot on the dustcover that the cases get slammed into when they eject, and also on the charging handle, which I think they also occasionally hit.
I got the idea from a thread here where someone was saying "I wonder if 'goo' would work?" Well, I decided to see for myself, and it does work. It takes a beating over the course of a few hundred rounds, and looks like it will need to be redone at some point soon. Anyway, it keeps the brass undinged 90% of the time, and the 10% that get it have a pretty mild ding.
There is also a device called a "valmet ejection buffer" that is said to work pretty well, but you'll prolly have to spend some time finding it. I have seen them for sale from places I googled, but this goo method (that doesn't sound right) has worked pretty well for now so I have had that on the back burner.
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A butt stock the same length as the original one, rearward trigger placement will have around an inch or so longer butt to trigger measurement when you move the fire control group to the normal/forward position.
Hmm, good point. Hadn't considered that; perhaps this is the reason for the shorter, Warsaw stock. My lizard's brain is trying hard to imagine what physical effect moving the trigger up to accommodate the PG would have on how the gun holds. This is all uncharted waters for me. I think I'll wait til I actually have the rifle in hand to see how it feels with the factory stock and trigger rearward.
I went through the same sort of thoughts when I was choosing a butt stock. I even tried to hold it pre-conversion under the trigger guard in the converted position approximately. It ended up exceeding my expectations of how comfortably it would point for me.
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Well, I'm 6'1", and a semi-flabby 220 lbs
The gun is primarily a SHTF weapon, that will be used for general plinking otherwise. From the above replies, it would seem that the NATO length would suit me better, especially since a PG will eventually go on it (?). The Tapco stock I had my eye on (linked in the OP) is apparently quite short, so I'm thinking its not a good choice for my size. However, Tapco makes a 1" extension that looks like it would work with that stock; I'll give 'em a call tomorrow. It's looking like, if I want to go with the traditional style stock, my options are limited.I have seen "recoil pads" that are also 1 inch extensions, made to fit standard ak butt stocks. Some even have a hole and fit over a standard butt plate, using the same screws, so you can use the toolkit trapdoor compartment if you have one.
" I called Tapco and the guy I spoke with said that the stock I linked to in my OP is 'the same as the Saiga factory stock." When I asked how it would work with their SAW PG on the Saiga, he seemed confused and muttered something about it not being designed for that gun."A butt stock the same length as the original one, rearward trigger placement will have around an inch or so longer butt to trigger measurement when you move the fire control group to the normal/forward position.
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I originally ordered a stock with a recoil pad/extension on it, but they made a mistake and sent me the regular warsaw length one. I am 5'11" average length arms and some extra ..ahem .. padding on my torso lol, and it turns out it works great. I may add a 1 inch extension at some point, but it seems like the shape and design of an ak is suited to a more compact buttstock.
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That linky stock appears to be a standard military ak/akm style stock, and should work well.
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I was able to make the PG hole in my .308 with a small triangle file. Labor intensive using that tool, but not difficult to do. It sat right where the trigger cut is/was, so I just had to widen it at the spot I wanted to bolt the PG down. I eyed up the placement with the pg mock installed, seeing where the bolt went through the slit, and centered the cut to that.
So, if you end up having to do that, i wouldn't worry about it being difficult.
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Hey LKB,
I keep looking at those KNS sight inserts. Is there anyway you could give us some pics of how that looks on yours?
Thanx,
HarvKY
Yea, I am going to borrow a camera later today and try to get some pics online. I'll link the the .308 pic thread from here, which is where I'll post em.
ETA: The camera I borrowed was new and didn't have a memory stick, so the pics are still a work in progress, sorry.
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Hey, glad to hear you are finding the info useful.
The part of your question about getting stuff from one source:
I originally planned to get all of my stuff from Dinzag, if possible, and he does have most of the stuff.. All of it for some styles of conversion. I emailed him about a wood stock set, and he sent me to Ironwood. I wanted to get his FCG, but the other parts I ordered needed custom fitting for the .308, and I wanted to start right away, so I got an RSA FCG. I got some parts from Midway as well.
Point being, finding parts kits or all of them from one vendor/builder is pretty tough, unless you are doing a basic/standard conversion. If you are, then you could probably get all of your stuff from Dinzag. I ended up ordering from 3 or 4 places to get all of the stuff for an old school wood furniture conversion.
Sounds like you are working on something good there! If you are done and don't mind showing a picture I would appreciate it. I have not ordered anything yet cause I am still overthinking the exact furniture I want. I think I am going to order the FCG this weekend. Thanks again
I don't have any pics right now but when I do I will add them to the .308 picture thread. I am finishing up the finish on the stocks right now. I ended up doing yellow, under gunstock brown with a cherry tinted topcoat. Ended up a dark cherry-chocolate.
Now that sounds pretty dam nice! Did the stock come unfinished? I am still undecided w/ the stock. I have my SKS on a Draganov stock and don't want twins so I am leaning to the T-6 but there seems to be a drop from the end to the stock itself so I am not seing a comfortable cheeck hold. They are good on the M-4 which is my assigned weapon, but alittle different from a .22 round to a 30 cal round. I also want to try to get ghosts sights put on and move the front sight post back to the end of the foregrips.
Yea the stock set came unfinished. I got the birch set, solid. He has laminated birch, laminated mahogany I believe as well as a few other choices. The butt is cut for the butt plate which has the little trap door for the toolkit. Very cool design. I still haven't found a military butt plate for it. The butt stock shape is excellent, and the hand grip cuts on the lower handguard are clean and very comfortable. I think the set is modeled after an AKM set. Clean lines and cuts all around.
I put a mojo micro click aperture rear sight on it and a front aperture that I got from midway with a little crosshair in it ( http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/...&t=11082005 ). Both made for a really noticeable improvement in sighting, and are very clean visually, no noticeable change from the normal ak look.
Hammer side to side movement
in Saiga .308
Posted
I have my .308 converted with an RSA fire control group. There is some side to side play if I move the hammer with my hand. It doesn't seem to do it under normal operation, but I am concerned that it will make for a safety issue, possibly breaking off the disconnector in the trigger piece.
What can I do to remedy this?