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Showing results for tags 'flash'.
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A relative of mine is shooting my SIG556xi with Manticore Arms' NightBrake, using the .223 Federal American Eagle .55 gr FMJ. Holy crap, it's not even 5.56!!! Got to dig out and trim the video of XM193 NATO we shot next. I'm surprised my Range card still works there (i.e. I'm still OK to go back). Last "documentary" on this topic: it's been replaced with (my 3rd) Miculek .223 comp.
I just got my new Phantom flash hider in the mail from CSS. Now I'm not sure how to proceed with the barrel threading. The thread depth on the Phantom is 9/16 of an inch. The depth to the stopping point or wall is 11/16 of an inch. Do I need to cut my fsb back enough for the barrel to screw completely to the inside of the phantom, or do I just need to go the depth of the threads and index it where it needs to line up on the outside? It seems like to me that it would need to flush fit to the full 11/16 of an inch. But, that would cause problems when indexing it, right? Does it matter if there is a little pocket space between the barrel and the inside wall of the Phantom? Thanks for any help you can give me. P.S. In case anyone is confused or doesn't know what I am talking about when I say wall, Inside the flash hider is the threads, then a small space, then you have a wall with a hole in the middle which the bullet passes through, then it opens up to the rest of the flash hider.
I had an idea today and I wonder if anyone has tried it already. Everyone has seen the shark breaks and such that make a muzzle device such as a break or flash hider double as a sort of pronged bayonet-like weapon. I was wondering if anyone has grinded down the Vortex Flash Eliminator like so: My concern is that it would hinder the flash hiding ability. This would be unacceptable. In addition to grinding down the prongs to form sort of edged teeth prongs (probably sharpened), I was also wanting to grind down the extra thick neck because it seems thicker, and therefore heavier, than necessary. Tell me what you guys think.