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Found 25 results

  1. Looking for someone's annular cutters.anyone have any. 9mm. 45. 308. 17 Or 223
  2. Fellow members and visitors… Do to some extreme health issues, I’m getting out of my SAIGA .308 hobby. This is a package deal for the whole thing… I don’t really want to attempt to part-out the various items… REDUCED WTS - $1,000.00 + shipping This weapon is the 4th .308 Saiga conversion I’ve done. It was completed about Five (5) years ago. I ran ~20 rounds through the weapon to verify function and safety, and then put it away… my go-to-weapon in case of zombie uprising… The basic weapon is a Saiga .308, 16”. It has a T-6 stock installed. I had Cobra install his “T6-buffer” in the stock to reduce recoil.. It has a G2 trigger group from Dinzag along with a pistol hand grip and forward hand guard brace. All in all a nice, basic modification. I also did the modification to the stock magazine to convert it from 8 rounds to a nine-ten (9-10) round capability. Photo is of weapon as it sets today. See below for additional modifications done/started… I am also including three (3) Surefire magazines (two have been used in previous weapons, one is new), and three (3) Pro-Mag magazines that have been loaded but never used. NOW… I decided about three and ½ years ago to do some additional modifications to the weapon, as the photo shows. I decided to change the rails, sights, etc. on the weapon. I wanted to give it a longer and more accurate sight picture using the open sights, sorta the SIG or POF look.. I removed the front and rear sights (they are included), in plastic zip-lock bags. I removed the cover and installed one with the full top rail. It mounts into the rear sight area and screws into the top of the rear stock mount. It seems to be very solid. I installed a flip up rear sight on this rail. I then modified a quad-rail made for the AK 7.65 x 39. It fits the weapon very tight and also provides the mount point for the flip up front sight. This modified unit HAS NOT been coated where I did the modifications. I would suggest some “final fitting” and then a good coat of color for the unit. I purchased the DIE and a Muzzle Break from Brian to thread the barrel and add the muzzle break. This is when I had my major health issues… The threading is NOT completed at this point. The DIE and Muzzle Break are included in zip-lock bags There are other spare and misc. parts included… BARSKA 1-3x30 IR (Multi Rail) scope, Dinzag modified fire/safety lever with the BHO (Bolt Hold Open) modification… Dinzag modified regular BHO lever with the spring, never installed.. Stock BHO with spring. Extra Hammer Spring… Factory sling (never installed)… Receiver cover with rings and Weaver Rail on top… Factory oil can, brushes, etc. Factory rear stock… There is an over-size hard case included with this weapon also. I expect the shipping to be about $50-$70 total, ground UPS… I can only ship the weapon to a FFL dealer and will need a signed copy of their license. BE SURE they will accept shipment from an individual (non FFL). I can ship the weapon (with minimal parts) to the FFL and the balance of the parts (bulk) directly to the purchaser. Insurance will be added (at buyers cost) if you want it. Thanks for looking…
  3. With you just joining today I encourage you to post a FOR SALE item in the for sale section. ALSO...read the rules page found here: http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?app=forums&module=extras&section=boardrules Very respectfully, GySgt New River
  4. Here's some more praise for these guys. I was having some issues with some older Csspec 20 round mags. Out of warranty. They had about a thousand rounds a piece through them. Just minor feed issues. I sent them back and they put new springs in and adjusted the follower angle a bit. They run as good as new. Thanks again Mike!
  5. video update of it in action. First time wife had ever heard it!
  6. Hi All, I'm finally doing a conversion for my 2 .308s and have been trying to find a good forearm setup. I'd like to have rails for both rifles, but would like something for a two-piece setup (already converted with tubes from Dinzag). It's not clear to me what options are available - looks like everything's for stock setup. Any pointers to rails that may work? Thanks, Rip
  7. I loved my stock .308 but wanted to make it more exciting. I have owned only a couple of guns, but have never really made one "mine". Gun Started off stock, simple, great. The only non stock thing I had were the 24rd Magazines, and some cheap ass hunting / plinking ammo. The OAL length was never a problem, and gun performed flawlessly during hunts. Nosler Ballistic Tip dropped this 260 lb Hog with 1 shot. Whole right side of face blown off where arrow pointing. (Nosler) For reference purposes: Nosler 30 Cal I was also able to drop two 115-135 lb Doe 20 minutes later with my Hornandy Hollow Point All 3 shots accurate as hell. I have had great results with cheap (Tula, PMC) ammo and expensive hunting rounds. However, Federal Power Shok has given me some trouble for some reason. After getting some good use out of the gun, Bored of its look and simplicity, I decided to spruce things up a little bit. I know the kush conversion is a personally preference, But I liked the look and wanted the shorter OAL. So I ventured into doing it.
  8. cSnells


    Finished Product
  9. I have seen other threads regarding the .223 kush JB weld picatinny mount (which was gorgeous by the way, and awesome green color). I was wondering if there have been any updates or new ways of mounting a picatinny rail on the gas tube of the .308 without interfering with piston. Gun is about half way built. Have red dot, recoil pad, side rail mounts, lasers flashlights sling ect ready to go. Just need tangs sawed off, picatinny rail on tube and dremel around magazine release. (Screws are out in pic) Does not sit flush because of Mag release All comments and suggestions are greatly appreciated, thanks
  10. cSnells

    .308 Kushnapup

    Just finished sandblasting, cerakoted matte white. still need to dremel back near mag release so it fits flush. Tangs chopped, and gas tube picatinny mount. any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated
  11. I'm converting a Saiga .308 and I'm at the step where I need to remove the trigger assembly. I know that I can't just pound the pins out- I have to drill out the shoulder. The issue is that I put one of my bits from my set into my drill press, set my Saiga down, started drilling, and before I knew it I had ground my bit down to two thirds it's length, and my trigger pin shoulder had an indention of less than 1/8th of an inch. Clearly my bits aren't going to go through that shoulder any time soon. I'm about 4 minutes away from a hardware store so I'm thinking I'll head down there and buy a couple more bits. The trouble is that I'm not sure what bit to get to drill through the Saiga's trigger pines and the trigger guard plate rivets. I'm guessing the rivets are easier to drill through, but I'm not sure. I'll also need to use my Dremel to reshape the bottom of the receiver box to fit my new trigger and pistol grip. I'm thinking a metal cutting blade will work... but you guys are the experts. Thanks so much.
  12. I'm still a little mixed up on importers and what they did to them once they arrived here in the states. Did some importers mill new receivers on some of these rifles and reassemble them before passing them on, or did they come that way from Russia? I am now seeing a FIME type/importers version of a Arsenal in 7.62x39 (I know, I'm crossing forums, I posted in both... hope you don't mind) and something about Arsenal phasing out some/all of it rifles. I know its tough, but could someone school me in Importers/setups reliability and desirability (.223-5.56-7.62 or even .308)? I am going to do both builds at the same time, and I absolutely want to start with the right caliber/platform on build two. IYHO and why.
  13. I'm still a little mixed up on importers and what they did to them once they arrived here in the states. Did some importers mill new receivers on some of these rifles and reassemble them before passing them on, or did they come that way from Russia? I am now seeing a FIME type/importers version of a Arsenal in 7.62x39 (I know, I'm crossing forums, I posted in both... hope you don't mind) and something about Arsenal phasing out some/all of it rifles. I know its tough, but could someone school me in Importers/setups reliability and desirability (.223-5.56-7.62 or even .308)? I am going to do both builds at the same time, and I absolutely want to start with the right caliber/platform on build two. IYHO and why.
  14. I have been hunting around for my next gun. I thought it would be the springfield armory .308 M1. since everyone has gone crazy these aren't even available, and at 1800-2000 if they are. I found a site that has .308 vepr supers in stock. they look nice with the thumbhole stock and the full wood. Is 1219 an ok price? pre craze i see people talking 1100 so it doesn't seem that bad. Looking around the site i see that people say scope mounting is tough on these, or better said the scopes are high. any advice? also the one im looking at says nothing about the side claw mount. does it come with that typically? last how about accuracy of the veprs and the super. i think 400 yards is within my ability what kind of groups should i expect?
  16. So I wanted to share a little information I have found so far in hand loading for my Saiga .308. I have a converted Saiga .308 with a 16" barrel. I use this information to load in bulk. I am much more exact with bolt guns or when making hunting/match loads. Always remeber to approach max loads cautiously as each gun is different. Start low and work your way up being mindful of pressure signs. Due to the short barrel and my love for Hodgdon Extreme powders, I decided to try Benchmark which is the same powder I use in reloading for my .223/5.56 AR's. Benchmark is an extruded powder cut very short which allows it to meter VERY well out of my RCBS powder meter. It is somewhat on the hot side being about the same as H335 or just a little slower than RL-10. I tried 3 different bullets. For service type rifles including my M1A and Saiga .308, I prefer 147-155 grain bullets to ensure flatter trajectories and optimal ballistic performance. Generally, I like to keep my muzzle velocities >2600 fps so for .30 cal bullets greater than 155 gr., I use a .300 win mag :-). I do not check velocities for each group during the ladder. I shoot several groups, increasing in powder until I find the highest accuracy node that does not show over pressure signs. I then shoot several groups of that load and chrony them. 1st ladder test results was with the 150gr Hornady FMJ-BT with cannelure. Case: Remmington (R P) trimmed to 2.005 Primer: CCI-200 Seated to Cannelure with crimp. Starting Grains 41 Max Tested 44.5 Results showed that 43-43.5gr gave most accurate results of 1-1.5 MOA at 100 yards Velocity from chrony gave 2610fps with SD 15fps from 43 gr. Benchmark 2nd ladder test was with 147 gr. Winchester FMJ-BT with cannelure. Case: Rem (R P) trimmed 2.005 Primer: CCI-200 Seated to cannelure with crimp Starting Grains 41 Max Tested 45 Results showed accuracy node at 44 grains giving 1.25-1.75 MOA at 100 yards Chrony results gave 2642fps with SD 23fps from 44gr Benchmark 3rd ladder test 150gr Hornady SP-BT with cannelure essentially the same as the 1st ladder test results with same trim, primers, seating ect. Best results found with 43 gr Benchmark giving 1.5 moa at 100 yards and velocity of 2590. This is my hog hunting load.
  17. I finally knocked my .308's FSB off and found that I have a 0.670" diameter underneath it. I've read Dinzag's tutorial on the subject, which says: But, if you'll excuse what reads like a child's temper tantrum, I don't want 17x1mm muzzle threads. I want a Battlecomp like Jim Digriz. I'd at least prefer the option to use any of the many, varied muzzle devices made for the 5/8-24 threads. So here's the question, is the conventional wisdom that a 0.670" muzzle cannot be threaded in 5/8-24 just a guideline, or is it a sure thing that I'm going to screw something up if I try it? I don't have access to a lathe, nor can I be arsed to hire the job out to a gunsmith. Paying for shop time to remove two hundredths of an inch from the barrel's radius just seems profane. If 0.670" is fatally wide, can I draw file some shallow flats on the muzzle, gradually connecting them to form a polygonal profile roughly approximating a circle of the correct diameter? I envision draw filing at 12 o'clock, 6 o'clock, 9 o'clock, and 6 o'clock before rotating the barrel 45 degrees and continuing the same pattern. If I use the same number of strokes each time, I imagine the end result will be close enough to circular that the die, indexed to the barrel via TAT, will round off the vertices.
  18. Does anyone know if a Tapco AK47/74 piston will fit in a Vepr .308 that doesn't have integrated sights? If not does anyone know who makes one that will? I'm trying to make it 922r compliant without changing out the factory stock. Thanks
  19. Hey guys, Just a quick question to the experts out here ... working on my Saiga .308 build, generally very happy with the rifle. I am curious though ... while researching specs there is some debate about the receiver thickness versus the VEPR model. Some claim it has a heavy barrel, some claim it doesn't, some claim the receiver is as thick as a VEPR, some say it is a standard 1 mm receiver thickness. Just trying to clear up some issues about S308 construction and durability. This guy on AR15 states: In the .308 version, both brands use the wider RPK-style trunnions (and thicker 1.5mm receiver sheet metal, IIRC). In all other calibers, only the VEPR has those two characteristics. So then, I decide to email Krebs of Krebs customs. He seems knowledgeable. He tells me (very graciously I might add) that the S308 is 50 thousandths of an inch and the VEPR is 60 thousandths of an inch thick on the receiver. Again, can't find anything to substantiate this. I would measure my own S308 but I don't have calipers to take such a measurement and I am currently having the front sight repinned and the barrel threaded. Where are people getting their info from? Anyone have any insight? I would greatly appreciate it. - Ken
  20. ManOnTheHIll

    I have learned a great deal thankfully to the brain trust of this great forum. I almost have enough dough to move ahead with my Saiga .308 conversion. I’ve already decided on the SGM bolt-on muzzle break and the Csspecs metal mags, again, thanks to all the discussions here. I love AKs and all the variants, and plan on making Saiga conversions my new hobby. I have a few questions. First off, I have an awesome Century Arms Polish AKM 60 (milled receiver). It didn’t come with a side scope rail so after much research, I installed the Samson mini-rail that replaces the leaf sights. It really works well for me and is also notched which allows for an iron site co-witness (which I have dialed in at 100 yards). Has anyone else used the Samson RSR1 to mount optics on their S308? Is the Saiga .308 leaf sight the standard AK size? Is there a standard size? What are some other favorite solutions to an optic mount that also allows a co-witness? I’d like to be able to shoot either way without removing my optic (which would probably be a 3-6x30 or something like that). Next, I’d like to get the right FCG kit with the trigger guard that will fit the same grip as pictured on my AKM (I have an extra, it’s a Mako AG-47S. Soooo comfortable) with little or no dremelling required. Finally, any input on a recoil reducing buttstock with adjustable cheek pieces would be helpful. Thanks in advance! This forum rules! -MOTH
  21. Hey folks, does anyone out there have any experience with the new Sig Sauer 716 yet? I'm shopping around for a .308/7.62x51mm battle rifle and needless to say the Sig 716 caught my eye. I've spent some time with the M14/M1A but it just doesn't really grab me, just I'm not into the ergonomics like I was expecting to be. The FN SCAR-H seems like a really cool, high-tech rifle that is worth further investigation, but it simply too overpriced in my opinion to be considered. I don't like that it uses proprietary mags either. I became quite enamored with the FAL platform after shooting a friend's and was intending to pull the trigger (no pun intended) on an 18" DSArms SA-58, however the Sig 716 has caused me to pause. I love that the 716 retains the AR ergonomics, is piston-driven (unlike most AR-10-esque .308 ARs) and uses PMAGs. I realize it is still pretty new, but I was just curious if there was anyone out there who has had some trigger time on the 16" Patrol version (might be the only version of the 716 that is available right now, actually) of these and can comment on its accuracy? Yes, I have seen the video on You Tube documenting the rifle that wasn't feeding right. The rifle is new, maybe it is having teething problems, maybe it is just that rifle in particular, maybe he didn't clean the all grease out that it comes packed in, who knows. Whatever the case, hopefully this was just an isolated occurance and Sig will make it right. Anywho, I welcome any thought and experiences with this rifle. I was all set to buy a FAL at the end of this month but I'm gonna wait a little bit and contemplate things further.
  22. Savage M10 BAS-K - .308/7.62x51 24inch Free Float Fluted Barrel with Muzzle Brake Adjustable Stock with cheek piece 10 Round Detachable Magazine Adjustable Harris Bipod Accu-Trigger SWFA SS 10x42 Scope with 6 Screw 30mm Rings ACU patterned padded soft case (drag bag) I'll throw some .308 in too to get you started. (FTF ONLY) She kick's like an AR and shoots .5 MOA at 200yds with Walmart Ammo. $1800 SHIPPED Will sell without scope and rings for $1500 SHIPPED or just the gun for $1400 SHIPPED
  23. From the album: Beastmode

    This is after I installed the Texas Weapon System Dogleg rail with peep sight..sick.
  24. Saiga .308, lightly used, well cared for. Adjustable stock, Tapco G2 trigger, Krebs retainer plate, 2-25 round surefire mags and 1-10 round factory mag. $800.00 shipped. Regards, Calen Smith
  25. I am having issues with removing the FCG from the gun. I talked to some friends who completed this process but it was a while back and couldnt remember how exactly they did it. All the videos i see on the net are for the 7.62x39 which requires two rivets to be drilled out. the 308 is a little different and it has some pins that seem to have a larger diameter on both sides of the left side opening and I was wondering if someone can shed some light on how to do this without ruining my gun. Ive attached two pics to show what i am talking about. Can anyone help??
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