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Found 9 results

  1. Crossposted, first timestamp gets it. Please do not PM me here, email is best, see sig. Fits Vepr, Saiga, and Bulgarian. It is used and shows some signs of wear, but is in great condition. 26.5mm rings and has 1" inserts. (reduced) $100 shipped, USPS MO only. Item will ship same or next business day upon receipt of funds.
  2. Looking for a Bulgarian Ak74 gas tube. I searched the net for hours but could not find one. If you have one please let me know. Thanks
  3. Need some help Identifying a magazine I stumbled across today. The gentleman in the old time gun shop had (4) AK47 magazines, he ALLOWED me to purchase only (1) magazine, for $25. I chose this waffle pattern, clear/smoke 30 rounder plastic with no identification on it, anywhere. Is it Bulgarian? No circle 10 marks.... Is it Tapco? or Promag? I thought they all were marked as such..... Any help would be appreciated!!
  4. How many people have used the bulgarian .223 magazines with good results in their saiga .223?
  5. Hi people. There are many things that I am ignorant about.fine woodwork is nearly one of them. So I have Bulgarian Surplus AK 74 wood that I bought from MarkW1. I bought two sets. One was refinished and is beautiful, I just need to make a matching wood pistol grip and clone his finish. The other one is the what I want your help with for now. This is going on a gun with a magwell and a very non-standard grip. I intend it to be suitable for 3-gun or similar, whether or not I ever get the chance to take it to an event. Since the style of traditional wood doesn't really match the modern features on my gun, I wanted to deliberately go non-traditional with my colors to emphasize this. I had thought of going with a light green stain or color matching the blonde buttstock to the hazel colored fore-end, and staining the grooves and contours in green. Now I think I am inclined to go with my first plan and Stain both Grey/ Charcoal, and make the grain pop as much as possible. I want the parts to match as much as possible, and am ok if dings get highlighted. This will be a gun to use, so I will apply a durrable finish and aim more for matte than gloss. I am open to all of your suggestions. I cleaned all the shellac off with denatured alcohol and sanded first with 100 grit and then 400 on both. I may need to get some intermediate paper and remove some crossgrain scratches that showed up on the forend, then redo the fine paper. I will do steel wool too if that is advisable, but I was just working with what I had onhand. The process I expect to do unless you guys recommend something better is as follows: 1) touch up the sanding a little better, moisten them with a rag of warm water, and sand a little more. Then 0000 steel wool. 2) get some dye at least black or grey, and brown if needed to get the stock to match the forend. I read here http://milsurpshoote...ay#.TxvWDW9rN2A that dye is better than stain and more controlable. a) do a light coat on the stock only and let it soak in of brown if needed.Repeat until underlying tone is comparable to the other piece. use black or grey stain to get an over all Charcoal tone on both pieces. I want the grain to stand out if feasable. Do this in multiple stages so as not to over do it or get mismatches since the wood is different. 3) after the above seems good and dry, Use a paint brush to apply a durable urethane finish. Aparently the thing to do is several coats before it cures fully and steel wool near the end. Here are pictures for reference: Stock Before: I am told that beech was a common wood for Bulgaria. This appears to be beech. Fore-End Before: I do not know what kind of wood this is, but it reminds me of mahogany but harder and darker. Both together after sanding: Close ups of grain (The beech looks really good, and I wish they matched): More pictures in reply: Continued even further:
  6. So, after falling in love with my 7.62 Saiga, I caught the bug to buy Saigas, but unfortunately, I was having a hard time finding them as at reasonable* price, so I decided to pick up two 5.45s. Little did I know, mags at a discount price are difficult to come by, for just about any variety (polymer, steel, Tantal, Bulgarian, ect, ect). I stumbled across two different types of Bulgarian "Circle" Mags...Circle 10s and Circle 21s. I know that Circle 10s seem to be heavily favored around these parts, but I'm feeling from the sticker shock. The Circle 21s seem to be identical to the Circle 10s I've read up on (Polymer, 30 round, Bulgarian, ect). What are the differences between Circle 10s and Circle 21s? I've tried to get info, but I seems to be scarce. Any experiences, insight, comparisons would be much appreciated. And yes, I tried the search function, Google search, and can't find anything definitive. Thanks all!!!! * highly subjective based on income level, purpose, usage....
  7. Howdy there everybody! Working on putting together some 74 builds and I have everything except the barrels. Need 4 but if you only have 1 I'll buy it. US made or Bulgarian, virgin or ancient, fresh chromed or pitted.... whatever. Price negotiations based on condition, I'm a fair businessman. Wide variety of payment methods. PM or reply in this thread and I'll get right back to you.
  8. I saw Aim Surplus sent out a flyer selling Bulgarian surplus 7.62x39mm ammo by the spam can. Does anyone have any experience with this stuff? I'm especially interested about bullet weight and muzzle velocity. With the exception of its copper washed cases, the other features--bimetal jacket, lead core, corrosive primer--remind me of Yugo surplus.
  9. Somewhere I read someones post about pinning the FSB on, and they recommended "sighting it in" first, at the range, then marking it and pinning it in place. Kinda like bore sighting a scope I guess. I can't find the thread, but had a question about it. Was that only for a saiga that originally had a pressed on sight, where you have to drill pin holes yourself? My factory FSB was pinned, so it already has holes, so am I correct in assuming that i'm not gonna be able to budge it from where the pin holes are anyway so might as well pin the new one where the pins line up, and just drift the windage to correct for any slight cant it could end up with ?
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