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Found 15 results

  1. Want to sell or trade for Miculek comp in 1/2 - 28 (used or new): used Manticore NightBrake 1/2" - 28 tpi (AR/SIG55x threading) Very good condition. Does great job of taming the muzzle rise and recoil. I'm not a fan of increased flash, though. New comp sold for $57.95 retail plus shipping. http://www.manticorearms.com/NightBrake-for-1-2x28-tpi-MA-1228.htm My price: $37.50 SHIPPED. Contact for details or trade offer (again, trade is for Miculek comp only; used or new). Will include brand new crush washer. Review: Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! P.S.: Actual photo (as installed):
  2. Common Russian Muzzle Attachments for Saiga-12/Vepr-12 Review Copied from here for Saiga-12 users Short review of different muzzle attachments, that are used with Vepr-12/Saiga-12 and some other shotguns by Russian shooters. The muzzle attachments in the review: Flash hiders (FH), Muzzle Brakes (MB), Compensators (C), Muzzle Brake-compensators (MBC), chokes & paradox (Chokes). Efimov design MBC The most common MBC in Russia are models based on the same idea, now well known as "Polygon Muzzle Brake-compensator", that was suggested by Russian IPSC shooter Efimov Eugeny. His device has two cambers: first one works as Muzzle Brake, second one as Compensator. Molot Chief Constructor Mr. Sergey Urzhumtsev told me that first dosen of them was made by Molot and one still used during test-shootings. Then production of Efimov design Muzzle brake-compensator was moved to "Polygon" LLC in Chelyabinsk, and became known as "Polygon MBC". Pics of Original Efimov MBC for Saiga-12/Saga-20 made by Polygon The pics of Original Efimov MBC, that was modified by Vsevolod Ilyn. He added the additional holes for Up and Right compensation + increased the window in the second chamber for more Up compensation. Later "Guns Tuning Laboratories" started to make their own version of MBC based Original Efimov MBC (Polygon). I talked to the owner & Technical Director of "Guns Tuning Laboratories" about their PSH-2 several years ago. Their main business is to repair Trucks engines & transmissions, making Muzzle-brakes is a kind of hobby due to the Owner has Saiga-12 and likes shooting. They told that "Polygon" design was taken for their PSH-2 but they used Computer based Math models for the Hot Gases for their design, they recalculated the volumes of the first and the second chambers, increased the "window" in the second chamber & improved the "gills" as in number as in geometry making them like nozzles. As everybody knows, nozzle are more effective then standard outlet. The pic of Guns Tuning Laboratories PH-2 The pic of Guns Tuning Laboratories PH-4-S-12-MR The same time Eugeny Efimov improved his own design, adding a couple of gills in the first chamber, and redesigned the second one splitting it for tree compensation chambers. Here is the pic of Improved Efimov MBC with 4 chambers. Ilyn design MBC One of the best MBC on the market based Efimov MBC is GK-01, designed by Vsevolod Ilyn. This Muzzle Brake-compensator does not have a completely new design, but has the most improved "Polygon MBC" design, like Russian T-34 tank is the most improved version of American Christy tank. Using his huge IPSC practice experience for his design, Ilyn used first chamber of Polygon adding 10 similar to PSH-2 MBC or Improved Efimov MBC instead of 8 on "Polygon MBC" & redesign himself the second chamber of "Polygon MBC", that now has a completely new design. He also switched from Steel, that is used for making "Polygon MBC" & "PHS MBC" to Aluminum for his GK-01. Ilyn MBC GK-01 now are made in Russia in cooperation with Vsevolod Ilyn by Molot, Molot Arms, IZHMASH, and in US by CSS, as well as, NoName in China - without. Molot Arms, as well as, IZMASH use D16T Al alloy rods for making their GK-01, Molot , before making their GK-01, prepare Al D16T for production forging Aliminium pigs, as forged aluminium wheels maker do for changing a structure of metal and increasing its safety factor. Now this MBC is well known in US as "Molot GK-01 muzzle brake/ Molot brake", and in Russia as "Ilyn Muzzle Brake-compensator". The pic of Custom Ti Ilyn MBC GK-01 made by Molot The pic of Ilyn MBC GK-01 made by Molot Arms (Al D16T) The pic of Ilyn MBC GK-01 made by IZHMASH (Al D16T) There are some other models of MBC based on Efimov MBC on the market in Russia, here are pics of some of them. The pics of MBC designed & made by "Cheaply" JP design MB There are some models based on JP MB. This are "pure" muzzle brake. The pics of JP adapted for Vepr-12/Saiga-12. The pic of JP MB that was modified by Vsevolod Ilyn for working as MBC. On this pic is also Efimov MBC modified by Ilyn and Compensator for Vepr-12.
  3. From the album: First Conversion Going Good So Far!

    Love the classic Slant Brake look and think it looks good with original wood furniture setup! Hard to believe the transformation! Very happy with the outcome! Loving my home-grown Arsenal equivalent w/out the sticker shock, lol!
  4. From the album: First Conversion Going Good So Far!

    Tapco Slot muzzle brake, top rated for minimal muzzle climb and recoil! Can't wait to try it out!
  5. Have a Saiga IZ-332 and an Arsenal AK-140US muzzle brake (Bulgarian reproduction for 7.62x39, M24x1.5). The brake does not screw all the way back to the detent pin. Isn't it supposed to ? This rifle came with what looks like a threaded Bulgarian FSB with detent pin. I just had to remove a barrel shroud to get to the threads. The brake stops right before the pin. It appears to stop when the threads end. I can easily push in the detent pin while screwing on the brake -- the brake still doesn't go any further. Tried screwing on this M24x1.5 conduit panel nut. Maybe I don't fully understand how nuts and bolts work, but I expected the panel nut to make it past the threads to the front-sight. The nut stopped in the same place. Seen quite a few forum topics that state that most muzzle devices will never screw all the way on to a Saiga, but I wasn't sure if that applies to an IZ-332. In all of those cases, the barrel had to be threaded and/or the FSB had to be added. Again, isn't that just a Bulgarian FSB ? meant for that kind of muzzle brake ? Did I damage the threads ? What is happening to keep the nut from making it all the way to the front sight ?
  6. IYHO How much louder is the perceived dB level w/ the 24mm muzzle break(like on the Arsenal 26-61) than the normal noise level perceived by the shooter of 45 Slant style flash hider or even standard end?
  7. Having been recently smitten by the Saiga-12 bug I finally succumbed to its allure, so, ... here I am... Hi, Everybody! Right off the bat I knew there were a few things I wanted to change about a stock Saiga to better suit my idiosyncrasies (actually, my wife calls it my 'need to tinker') and, of course, this forum was THE place to research my ideas first. Although I have a bit of experience with firearms, none of it included anything in the AK/Saiga world, and not wanting to be just another noob on the forum (with all due respect for noobs everywhere), I read just about every post, and followed every thread I thought may have been pertinent, prior to buying and building MY Saiga. This post is to share with those that may be interested how I went about MY build. Yes, I realize some of you might have made different choices, and you probably would have had great reasons for doing so for YOUR build. I welcome any constructive criticism or questions from anyone and promise to reply as may be appropriate. Now here's my story. As I learned on the forum, the Saiga-12, as imported into the US, has had a few changes over time. Looking at the date of a post helped me put into perspective its content as far as the vintage and the importer relative to applicability for MY intended build. Also learned that some posters just repeat stuff they heard/read somewhere but lack personal experience, knowledge, common sense, or some combination thereof. This observations helped explain some of the apparent conflicts in facts and opinions, enabling me to make better use of the information. I will stick to providing factual details, evidence-based analysis and opinion, and verifiable references. The first building block is a NIB, current production (March 2012) IZ 109, imported by RWC and purchased at retail. The intended use is exclusively for high-power slugs, maybe some ocassional magnum loads of buckshot for hunting hogs - not tactical, not skeet, not urban warfare, not PD, not 'zombies', not inexpensive plinking fun, etc., just hogs. This meant I would disregard 'low brass reliability kits', flash hiders, CQB and door-breaching accessories, and other such useless (to me) items. The following list shows the functional objectives, the selection criteria, and the chosen solution. Comments or other clarifications are included as I felt warranted. Objective Criteria Solution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Reduce muzzle climb Consistent, reliable, JT Engineering brake installed with and perceived rugged, compatible a barrel lock nut, both steel, from recoil for faster with all full-power loads, Carolina Shooters Supply (CSS) and second shots low or no maintenance LimbSaver recoil pad from WalMart Comment: This brake includes crenellations for door-breaching which I don't need and will machine off in my lathe and then refinish. Multiple Picatinny Same as above Billet Tri-Rail and rear sight rails for lights, dovetail rail from CSS lasers, red dots, forward grip, bipod Comment: The rear sight was staked in the dovetail. Using a small cutoff wheel and a hacksaw I made a vertical cut on top of the sight to within a few thousandths of the bottom and then tapped it out. This allowed installing the dovetail rail. Avoid battering Same as above Tromix Full Power Recoil Spring damage from recoil and recoil buffer from CSS of regular full- power loads use Comment: After installing the recoil spring, testing showed the bolt carrier still hitting the rear trunnion; only then was the recoil buffer installed. I didn't know the pin retaining the guide rod to the return spring guide was slightly tapered - it only came out, and went in, one way (I mic'd it to be sure it wasn't just burred). Buttstock with Same as above but without ACE Hammer from Del-Ton. External adjustable LOP cutting off rear tang or Receiver Block Extension and Pignose and cheekpiece welding. Strongest made Adapter from CSS Comment: The bottom of the External Extension required drilling and tapping for securing to the bottom of the receiver using existing screw hole of the replaced stock. This precluded keeping the trigger there, requiring to be retro-fitted forward to its Kalashnikov-intended location (See next item). Greg Queen from CSS was very helpful in confirming this workaround and in responding very quickly to my emails asking specific product questions. I very much appreciate his prompt, knowledgeable, and candid answers. Without his help this whole project could have turned into a nightmare. Thank you Greg. Move trigger forward Use highest quality JT Engineering Main Spring, Axis components pin retaininjg plate, BHO kit, Tromix FCG, Carolina Trigger Guard, and trigger group hole plugs, all from CSS Comment: The instructions and videos from CSS were invaluable. I didn't use a 3/16 drill to drill out the trigger guard rivets; I center-punched the rivets, made a 1/16 pilot hole and then drilled out the rivet to its O.D. only, keeping the holes at their original size. I did notch the BHO lever for the spring but only after watching the video several times while playing with the parts to better understand why and how. I installed the main spring upside down at first, and it worked, but didn't look right. After I installed it correctly I tested it and found the trigger pull to be rather light; it tested at an average 2 1/2 lbs. That seemed too light for safety on a high- recoil shotgun so I chambered and cocked on a 12 Ga. snap cap. Multiple hard inline impacts on the butt and on the muzzle failed to allow the hammer to strike the firing so pin so now I won't be worried about a light trigger pull inducing accidental discharge. Rear pistol grip Same as above, non-slip, Hogue Monogrip for AK from local no pinch points, feels store good in MY hands Comment: The screw hole in the grip needed to be elongated to match trigger guard's. I used a Dremel tool to do it. It wasn't much, but removing that material made me feel like I had compromised the structural integrity of the grip's fastening so I built a thick rounded-rectangle-shaped washer to fit inside the grip's bottom surface to distribute the screw's tension over the entire surface and not just the thin 75% area beneath the screw head. This would increase the load-bearing capacity of the grip's mounting while allowing for a little more tightening torque on the screw; both important to me on a high-recoil shotgun (It might be a little disconcerting if the grip comes off while a disgruntled hog is charging at me). Other accessories on this Saiga include a Grippod, a green Beamshot, CenterPoint red/green dot scope, Ergo rail slot covers, fitted case, YHM 45 degree rail adapter with an AR grip adapter and generic AR pistol grip. Checking out this Saiga for 922r compliance found 9 foreign parts out of a max of 10. This is including the original 5-shot magazine which counts for 3 parts all by itself. I think I am OK there. The ammo intended to be used includes, in no particular order, the following: Ddupleks Hexolit 32 Sauvestre Balle Fleche Dan Arms Gualandi Nitro Company Gualandi and '200 Yds Slug BPI DGS Thunderbolt Hornady SST Lightfield Hybred and Commander IDS Remington Slugger Federal Fusion and Power-Shok Various domestic (US) buckshot loads in lead, and non-lead alloys and my own 600 gr. hollow-points I machine from copper stock, loaded in custom brass shells from Rocky Mountain Cartridge with Hodgdon Longshot and CCI primers... not for use by the timid or pain-intolerant (higher recoil, much, much louder than a church mouse). I am considering a couple of other possible tweaks as they may be needed. It seems, even with the recoil buffer, recoil impact on the rear trunnion is excessive; an even stiffer recoil spring, modified gas plug, enlarging the gas vent on the gas block, or reducing the barrels's gas ports, may be options. A low-profile scope side mount and a Hi-Lux EER 2-7X32 scope are also future options. A sling, and a rifled barrel are also subjects for future consideration. That's it for now... I can't think of anything else right now. Long-winded post... (Sorry, moderators) I tried to edit for brevity but couldn't decide on what to leave out. Ill try to be more succint in the future.
  8. Hello! I am new to this website, but i saw the wealth of information that everyone provides, so I figured I would ask a question and see if you guys can help! I recently threaded the barrel of my saiga so I could attach a JTac47 muzzlebrake on it. However, when I screwed the brake on, it seemed to be on crooked. The brake is pointing slightly to the ground. I'm wondering how this could have possibly happened, and if there is anything I can do to fix it. It just doesn't seem possible that the threads cooke be angled like that.
  9. Hi All, After much research through the appropriate threads it's time for me to cut the muzzle fitting off the front of my Saiga x39. From the front of the FSB to the end of the barrel it measures a tick over 1-inch. The smallest pipe cutter I Have requires a minimum of 7/16-inch to the center of the wheel. Questions I have not found answers for in my thread searches: 1. Does anyone have a "thinner" pipe cutter to recommend? 2. If I use mine, will 9/16-inch leave enough thread surface for most muzzle brakes? 3. What should I expect once I've cut to the barrel? 3A. One thread said it will "pop" ...does that mean it will then simply slide off? 3B. If there is no "pop," how will I know when I've reached the barrel... by measurement alone? 3C. Although I am pretty sure my barrel is not threaded, if it is, will the cut piece unscrew? 3D. Once the pipe cutter reaches the barrel, how is the old muzzle piece then removed? Many thanks in advance of your experienced answers!
  10. SGM TACTICAL bolt on muzzle brake for the saiga .308 brand new in perfect conditition, im asking $100.00 shipped. Part sells for $169.00 plus shipping please pm if interested, paypal is an option
  11. Hi. Before I purchase, can you all verify if this is the correct Muzzle Brake for the IZ 332 (7.62x39)? Here's the link to Combathunting.com: http://www.combathun...31&product=8748 Thanks!
  12. Years ago, before the age of pointy muzzle brakes (back when guns were wood and fired stone balls) I taught LEOs things like room clearing and door breaching. We had seen various stand-off devices, some like a short spike bayonet, some that resembled a coffee can and were designed to catch flying debris. Most were seen as gimmicks, none really saw general adoption. We saw problems result when a person trained to rely on the weapon sticking to the door had the device slip or slide, often resulting in a wild shot, sometimes in injuries. Mostly it was seen that these devices were a poor substitute for adequate training and generally encouraged the user to get the muzzle way to close to the door. So, what is everybody's opinion? Practical tool? Mall ninja crap? Extra credit for anyone who has used one in training/play/practice Super extra credit for anyone who has used one in a real life situation.
  13. My intention for the IZ 332 was to keep the factory monte carlo stock and add a muzzle brake. What I didn't realize, till recently, is that if I add a muzzle brake, I would effectivley need to comply with the 922R regulation. From what I've read so far, I need 6 U.S. made parts to make this work. I would like anyone's opinion on how I could achieve this as simple and economical as possible. I have no metal fabrication skills so anything requiring precision drilling, cutting, etc, is probably not a good idea. My only idea right now is purchase the following U.S. made parts: - Muzzle Brake - Front Hand Guard - Magazine (counts as 3) The above meets 5 U.S. parts. I am wondering if anyone could recommend a 6th item. I am open to a different approach all together. Thanks.
  14. From the album: Variety

    With Miculek compensator installed. LHS view.
  15. recently made purchase on new saiga .223 n wanting to put on ak74 style muzzle brake http://store.carolin...KE-SAIGA/Detail by installing this i know that it'll trigger 922r...but my question is do i have to add bullet button as well??... i don't have pistol grip and not planning on it. as for conversion parts, i have surefire magazine (-3), muzzle brake (-1), planning on gas piston (-1), no pistol grip (-1)..so that makes 10 parts from 16 total... here's picture of my rifle
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