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I'm new to the St Louis area and I am trying to figure out where all the gun ranges are and what they support. I've visited quite a few of the indoor ranges and as expected, they don't allow steel core ammunition, does anyone know of any ranges in the area that allow it? I have all sorts of steel core or bi-metal jacketed ammunition, but I haven't seen a place that is willing to let me use it. The three outdoor ranges within 1hr drive were the hopefuls, The Busch and Jay Henges ranges don't like steel and the last hopeful in Arnold, MO (Arnol Rifle and Pistol Club) is invite only. Sure, these spam cans will last for another 40 years no problem, but they are my only realistic means until I get some spare cash for bullets/brass for 5 different calibers. Sidenote, anyone have any favorite .54r or .308 rounds for deer hunting? If all else fails, I have a German K98 that shoots like a dream with Remington Core-Lokt.
gunfun posted a topic in Tech SectionHi people. There are many things that I am ignorant about.fine woodwork is nearly one of them. So I have Bulgarian Surplus AK 74 wood that I bought from MarkW1. I bought two sets. One was refinished and is beautiful, I just need to make a matching wood pistol grip and clone his finish. The other one is the what I want your help with for now. This is going on a gun with a magwell and a very non-standard grip. I intend it to be suitable for 3-gun or similar, whether or not I ever get the chance to take it to an event. Since the style of traditional wood doesn't really match the modern features on my gun, I wanted to deliberately go non-traditional with my colors to emphasize this. I had thought of going with a light green stain or color matching the blonde buttstock to the hazel colored fore-end, and staining the grooves and contours in green. Now I think I am inclined to go with my first plan and Stain both Grey/ Charcoal, and make the grain pop as much as possible. I want the parts to match as much as possible, and am ok if dings get highlighted. This will be a gun to use, so I will apply a durrable finish and aim more for matte than gloss. I am open to all of your suggestions. I cleaned all the shellac off with denatured alcohol and sanded first with 100 grit and then 400 on both. I may need to get some intermediate paper and remove some crossgrain scratches that showed up on the forend, then redo the fine paper. I will do steel wool too if that is advisable, but I was just working with what I had onhand. The process I expect to do unless you guys recommend something better is as follows: 1) touch up the sanding a little better, moisten them with a rag of warm water, and sand a little more. Then 0000 steel wool. 2) get some dye at least black or grey, and brown if needed to get the stock to match the forend. I read here http://milsurpshoote...ay#.TxvWDW9rN2A that dye is better than stain and more controlable. a) do a light coat on the stock only and let it soak in of brown if needed.Repeat until underlying tone is comparable to the other piece. use black or grey stain to get an over all Charcoal tone on both pieces. I want the grain to stand out if feasable. Do this in multiple stages so as not to over do it or get mismatches since the wood is different. 3) after the above seems good and dry, Use a paint brush to apply a durable urethane finish. Aparently the thing to do is several coats before it cures fully and steel wool near the end. Here are pictures for reference: Stock Before: I am told that beech was a common wood for Bulgaria. This appears to be beech. Fore-End Before: I do not know what kind of wood this is, but it reminds me of mahogany but harder and darker. Both together after sanding: Close ups of grain (The beech looks really good, and I wish they matched): More pictures in reply: Continued even further:
I saw Aim Surplus sent out a flyer selling Bulgarian surplus 7.62x39mm ammo by the spam can. Does anyone have any experience with this stuff? I'm especially interested about bullet weight and muzzle velocity. With the exception of its copper washed cases, the other features--bimetal jacket, lead core, corrosive primer--remind me of Yugo surplus.