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Found 7 results

  1. I've run into this quandary a bunch of times lately. I go buy a few tools to do a job, and I use them once. Like ever. Now, here I am again. I want to cut my .308 Saiga barrel down from 22" to 20", reface it, put an 11 degree crown on it, then thread it in 5/8x24. I'm still on the fence about moving the FSB back and repining it. I'll likely never use the iron sights, so why bother. But I'm going to end up dropping like $250 on it, then using it once. After that, it'll sit in my roll away collecting dust. I wish this site had some sort of tool exchange where we could borrow each other's tools and share the love. I'm sure there are members out there who have every tool I need, but most people wouldn't just loan tools to a guy they don't know, and would worry about damage. If we had a system where we could pay a deposit, then get the money back when we were done with the tools that would be sweet. Well, because the golden rule, I do have a die, tat, and handle for 14x1LH if someone wants to borrow them. they'd have to cover shipping both ways, though.
  2. I have a Saiga 7.62 with a 20" barrel which I'm going to cut down to 16" and thread it for a flash suppressor. It seems like most folks I see on the internet just use a 14 x 1 LH die and thread alignment tool to accomplish this. However, I've read elsewhere that the maximum barrel diameter for an M14X1 die is 0.560". I measured my barrel with a caliper and it is 0.575". I know that the right way to do this would be to use and annular cutter to reduce the barrel OD before threading. I just wanted to know if anyone had successfully threaded their Saiga barrel using just the die without reducing the barrel OD first. I'd like to avoid dropping $75-100 on the annular cutter if possible, but I don't want to screw up a $35 die and end up having to buy both tools anyway. Oh and I've already decided on a combination gas block / FSB, so a 24 mm threaded FSB is not an option.
  3. So, my AR-180B needed to be made a little bit more evil, so I decided to cut down the integral brake and thread the muzzle for a flash hider. If you haven't seen the tool in action, I took some video!
  4. Hi All, I have been contemplating threading the barrel on my 7.62 for a Muzzle Brake. However, in an AR forum I frequent, several members have tested accuracy with an array of barrel accessories. To a man, they report that the addition of any front-end accessory hinders accuracy. Many of them have removed the stock A2 brake in favor of a simple thread protector. What say you?
  6. I finally knocked my .308's FSB off and found that I have a 0.670" diameter underneath it. I've read Dinzag's tutorial on the subject, which says: But, if you'll excuse what reads like a child's temper tantrum, I don't want 17x1mm muzzle threads. I want a Battlecomp like Jim Digriz. I'd at least prefer the option to use any of the many, varied muzzle devices made for the 5/8-24 threads. So here's the question, is the conventional wisdom that a 0.670" muzzle cannot be threaded in 5/8-24 just a guideline, or is it a sure thing that I'm going to screw something up if I try it? I don't have access to a lathe, nor can I be arsed to hire the job out to a gunsmith. Paying for shop time to remove two hundredths of an inch from the barrel's radius just seems profane. If 0.670" is fatally wide, can I draw file some shallow flats on the muzzle, gradually connecting them to form a polygonal profile roughly approximating a circle of the correct diameter? I envision draw filing at 12 o'clock, 6 o'clock, 9 o'clock, and 6 o'clock before rotating the barrel 45 degrees and continuing the same pattern. If I use the same number of strokes each time, I imagine the end result will be close enough to circular that the die, indexed to the barrel via TAT, will round off the vertices.
  7. I just got my new Phantom flash hider in the mail from CSS. Now I'm not sure how to proceed with the barrel threading. The thread depth on the Phantom is 9/16 of an inch. The depth to the stopping point or wall is 11/16 of an inch. Do I need to cut my fsb back enough for the barrel to screw completely to the inside of the phantom, or do I just need to go the depth of the threads and index it where it needs to line up on the outside? It seems like to me that it would need to flush fit to the full 11/16 of an inch. But, that would cause problems when indexing it, right? Does it matter if there is a little pocket space between the barrel and the inside wall of the Phantom? Thanks for any help you can give me. P.S. In case anyone is confused or doesn't know what I am talking about when I say wall, Inside the flash hider is the threads, then a small space, then you have a wall with a hole in the middle which the bullet passes through, then it opens up to the rest of the flash hider.
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