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Got the build bug. My wallet is trembling.


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Hey Everybody:

 

There's a new gunsmith near my town who is setting a very good reputation for his custom builds. It's made me get the crazy idea to do a custom bolt .308 rifle. I have some questions since I've never done a build before, and I'm not totally sure yet about doing this project. So far, it sounds like a big money pit.

 

Assuming I already have a barrel, a stock, an action, and maybe a new trigger too, where do you go from there to get it all assembled? What factors have to be considered?

 

I'm thinking about using a Remington 700 SA action & bolt from Bud's (they cost less than Savage's actions), and I like the MacMillan A-4 stock. It just looks really cool. It appears to take more work to make MacMillan's A-4 stock accept a Savage action. Remingtons pose no problems. A Timney trigger seems necessary too. I'd like to have a heavy, straight, untapered bull barrel with a recessed crown - perhaps 1" in diameter or a bit more - and at least 24" - 26" long with a 1:10 twist. Is there a name for the typical flat black finish of barrels? Is chrome lining needed?

 

I just like the looks of untapered barrels, and I appreciate how they dampen (or eliminate) barrel harmonics and take much longer to get warm. This has been reinforced by how cool custom .22 builds look that I've seen on MidwayUSA using .920" Green Mountain barrels and Boyd's tacticool stocks. I assume a .308 barrel of the same style would need to be a bit thicker. Thus, 1" or maybe 1.25" outer diameter. What do you guys think would be an appropriate diameter?

 

I've heard a lot about bedding a stock or using pillars to help with accuracy. Is one better than the other? Are both needed? What exactly do they do? I've heard bedding helps keep the stock from touching the barrel. I've never really understood that since you're taking-up space in the barrel channel with the bedding - so there's less clearance for the barrel. Pillars seem to be a newer technique. I've never heard how or why they work. It sounds like they support the barrel. Yet you don't want anything touching the barrel (???). Macmillan offers to add pillars to their gunstock.

 

Another thing I've always wondered about is how do gunsmiths take varying barrel diameters into account for matching actions? I understand how if I got a new factory barrel for my Remington 700 ADL .30-06, you'd take off the old barrel and the new one matches the action. It seems like if you use a barrel with a larger diameter like with a bull barrel you'd need an action with a larger diameter too. How is it rifles with different barrel diameters can use the same action?

 

I just want to get more informed before I go to this guy's shop. I don't want to sound like a complete idiot - only a partial one. I assume there's a lot more involved than just buying the components and putting them together. For example, I've heard you need to make sure Remington actions are trued or squared to the chamber (or something like that) before putting on the barrel. What other issues need to be considered for ensuring an accurate gun? I've heard about torque settings too.

 

Sorry this is so long. I appreciate any gunsmithing education you guys can offer. I know what I'd like to do, I just want to be able to discuss with a gunsmith it in a more informed manner. Ultimately, I'm simply infatuated with MacMillan stocks. I really like the A-4 stock. I'm not a Marine sniper wannabe, it's just a really cool looking stock in my opinion. They say it can take up to a 1.45" diameter barrel. Geez ... that's huge!

 

Anyway ... my goal would be to have a very good target rifle - not a hunting rifle. I intend to buy one component at a time as my finances allow, and (of course) have it drilled & tapped for some sort of mil-dot scope. At the very least, an SWFA scope.  

 

How are Shilen barrels?

 

Thanks.

 

 

 

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Love a good build, but a quick question for you...How invested are you .308? If you are going to drop the kind of coin you are talking about, and starting from scratch components, I would strongly consider 6.5 Creedmore. Better ballistics, widening market, and probably more valuable down the road if you ever wanted or needed to sell the rifle. I have not made the jump since I have a lot of .308 stuff and have stocked up on the caliber. If you want to stay in .308, there is a lot of stuff off the shelf that will get you sub MOA or close right out of the box for a lot less. I like Savage over Remington, but that is my preference. I have a Savage 10 FCP-SR in .308 that will print 1/2" groups with hand loads straight from the factory. I don't want to mess with it, but if I was going to, it would go into an XLR Industries Evolution Chassis.

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Hunting? Target? money? now is the time to ask the questions.

bolt rifles are going for a song right know . I depends on how serious this is going to be.

I have a new Thompson Center Compass 308 scoped ready to go and a 1000 yard range to shoot it.

I also reload.

I would spend  as much or even more time reading  about bullets types that would be practical for you, this will help you choose the twist of the barrel.

do not be in a hurry and enjoy the ride.

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Just ask him what he recommends for your use and actually listen.

 

When he is done talking, you might ask him some of these questions if he hasn't beat you to it:

1- Is he going to true the action?

2- Which trigger does he recommend and why?

3- Which scope and scope mounting options does he recommend?

4- Which stock does he recommend?

 

+1 on the 6.5 recommendation.

 

I like the pillar concept better than traditional bedding.

 

Plan on paying nearly as much for some decent glass as you pay for the rifle. March makes some nice LR scopes.

 

 

Having said all of that, unless you are truly experienced at shooting long range, you will likely shoot about the same with a decent gun that comes in a box. I am that guy, lol. Give me a Savage with a decent optic on it and I am good for every range I have access to around here. I'd spend that extra money on a quality suppressor.

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Just ask him what he recommends for your use and actually listen.

 

When he is done talking, you might ask him some of these questions if he hasn't beat you to it:

1- Is he going to true the action?

2- Which trigger does he recommend and why?

3- Which scope and scope mounting options does he recommend?

4- Which stock does he recommend?

 

+1 on the 6.5 recommendation.

 

I like the pillar concept better than traditional bedding.

 

Plan on paying nearly as much for some decent glass as you pay for the rifle. March makes some nice LR scopes.

 

 

Having said all of that, unless you are truly experienced at shooting long range, you will likely shoot about the same with a decent gun that comes in a box. I am that guy, lol. Give me a Savage with a decent optic on it and I am good for every range I have access to around here. I'd spend that extra money on a quality suppressor.

Well said, it is cheaper to tweak a production gun and have just as much fun with more money.

as cheap as guns are you can buy a few and still be money ahead.

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+1

Also, production bolt gun offerings are not what they used to be. Manufacturers are starting to get it and their offerings are getting very close to what people would generally want to build. If they keep going at the rate they are, it will eventually hurt many of the companies who offer things that used to not have an OEM equivalent or it will force them to be suppliers to the bigger companies. OEM bolt handles are comparable in function to what used to only be available aftermarket, stocks are becoming keepers, many are being produced with a pillar arrangement, factory threaded barrels are becoming more common, OEM triggers are getting better, factory finishes (camo patterns) are what used to only be available at a custom shop, and mounting scopes is getting better. I almost finally want to buy a bolt gun because I can get one, slap a scope on it, and be done with it without throwing a bunch of time and money at making it what I really wanted.

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I think the most you have to do to a production rifle, is to fill an bed the stock as they tend to flex

The poly stock flexing more than a fiberglass or wood.

Depending on how far you will be shooting it may not make a difference. I got my new 308 Compass with a threaded barrel and have installed a nice break to tame recoil. 

Also some guns just shoot better or like a specific  round. All the more reason to start reloading.

The money you save on a rifle can be spent on reloading. Trust me you will enjoy the sport a lot more and you will have far more control over the shooting process.

If you take a box of good factory rounds pull the bullet and weigh the powder you will see what I am talking about as few will have the same load.

There is a ton of information on the net these day a lot of shooting reviews that give you an idea of what ammo a production rifle likes.

When you build your own you have to do the heavy  living yourself.    

Good luck and have fun, when the doctor releases  me I will breaking in the Thompson Compass starting a 100 yards the same day if possible.

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