Jump to content
Disturbed

Low brass cycling issues..

Recommended Posts

Hello there, I'm new to this forum, and as I browse the comments I see im not the only one having these problems.. I recently purchased both the mka1919(1st) and then a few months later the Saiga 12. I bought the 1919 and realized that mag capacity was gonna be an issue, As I could not find high capacity mags, not the problem.. The problem is that my 1919 Will cycle high brass and anything really with a velocity of 1300 and higher with a 99% efficiency..but the bulk ammo Will not cycle the Winchester super is about the only bulk ammo that has over 1300( that I can find). I tinkered, cleaned and shot for a while, got annoyed, and moved on to calm down.. 

I then purchased the saiga 12, I heard a lot of good things about them and I own a few AKs and never had issues with any of them.. So I thought an AK 12gauge.. Holy crap DESTRUCTION..  So I get it home and grab a bulk box of Winchester ammo universal number 7 I think, loaded the mag went outside to play.. I fired about 4 rounds and it jammed every time.. So i adjusted the plug to the factory 2 setting and it still FTE every round. I took it inside cleaned it and checked the gas ports, there were 4 holes in the gas block?..cleaned all the carbon from the block, reassembled reloaded and got the same affect, feeling disgusted started reading forums, saw a lot of positive feedback on the reliability kits from Carolina I think it was, so I ordered that, as well and installed the kit, well the kit didn't help at all with the bulk ammo.. But like the 1919 it cycled better with the 1300 fps. But still ever 2 or 3 rounds it would FTE, from what I could tell it was short stroking. High brass and buckshot shot fine, haven't fired any slugs through either weapon. I'm a little disgusted to the fact we pay this amount of money for a weapon to half function, if these weapons can only fire high brass or heavier loads they should be advertised as so.. But guys any help with either of these weapons would be greatly appreciated..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

You need to learn about ammo. If you googled around this forum, you probably saw a lot of very similar posts, which usually included someone like me posting this: TjKmo2D.jpg

BOTH:

Find the minimum ammo your gun will run. buy stuff with that rating or larger. Notice how SHOT SIZE is not on the list? That's because it doesn't matter at all. You care about weight x velocity. 

If you refuse to learn that simple lesson, you doom yourself to a life of frustration with every semi automatic shotgun. It is easy. Learn the lowest combination of numbers that each gun likes, and buy stuff that is equal or greater. 

Saiga:

I would put back in your factory springs, and if you haven't look into polishing your rails a little, and more importantly verifying that the profile of your hammer face is right. Shape. Not polish. 

4 ports is fine, if they are big enough. IIRC, you should get reliable function somewhere between 4@ 0.082" and 4@ 0.093" going way bigger lets more crud in. I prefer 5 small ports, but 4@ 0.087" worked for me on one,  IIRC, but if one of my older posts says something different, I typed it when the memory was fresher. Each gun is a balance of gas power vs friction and springs. Put the mechanical bits back to factory, sort out the hammer face, and all that before you change anything with the ports.

Low brass kits are mostly hoaxy. i.e. they can make a tiny amount of difference by compromising important things. If your gun needs more than a tiny amount of difference, they wasted your money. Better to fix the simple things like I said. Then your gun isn't a barely running compromise.

MKA: My memory is pretty rusty, so if people correct this who are more into MKA's listen to them.

Firebird and tooth and nail offer kits for dealing with the MKA 1919. They have plenty of threads on the issue. It is easier to find them if you google this forum than if you use the internal search feature. IIRC there was an improved drive block, and a spring shim, or something along those lines. A lot of people only needed the shim until the mainspring broke in, and the burrs were polished off of the moving bits.

MKAs have a couple parts that are prone to fracture. Most of the companies that make stuff for them offer replacements for the drive block or whatever it is called, which resolves the key weakness.  You really don't want to feed them 3" loads very much. Basically, they want ammo right in the middle of the power spectrum.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Tromix - Lead Delivery Systems
Dinzag Arms
CHAOS, Inc
Mississippi Auto Arms, Inc
Cobra's Custom
Carolina Shooters Supply
R & R Targets
LONE STAR ARMS
SGM Tactical
Mach 1 Arsenal
K-VAR
C&S Metall-Werkes
American Specialty Ammo
Csspecs Magazines
Phoenix Technology
Evlutionz LLC


  • Chatbox

    Load More
    You don't have permission to chat.
×