Muzzle Break problem

[ATD 2]

I recently purchased a break for my Vepr k and about halfway through the first mag the thing blew off and landed about 30 yds down range. it's held on with set screws and I about broke the Hex wrench I used to tighten them with so I was wondering if anyone else had a problem like this and if there was some kind of glue or something I could use to hold it on. I don't want it coming off and I am getting tired of the $45 piece of metal sitting on my desk.

[Bvamp 604]

did you use loc-tite on the screws?

[ATD 2]

yup

made em a b***h to get out.

but even if I hadn't it should have stayed on longer than than 1 mag.

[G O B 3,516]

ATD

If you don't mind semi-permanant mount use red locktite between mount and barrell. Also check very carefully that it is on completly straight. A piece of 1/4 drill rod may help.The light from your borelight/flashlight should show the same cresent as you rotate the weapon around the bore axis.

 

G O B

[ATD 2]

Thanks I will let you know how it works.

[Bvamp 604]

i havent actually used red loctite. its always been blue or purple loctite (obviously mixed with red)....

Edited May 15, 2004 by Bvamp

[G O B 3,516]

Red loc-tite is also known as stud and bearing mount.It can still be removed,but it takes a lot more effort,and usually heat/hammer. That is why I only recommend it for semi/permanent work. There is also a green that is somewhere in between and can be used after assembly,as it'creeps' into threads by capillary action. However it is messy and STINKS! This might work for screws that need to be adjusted and then locked. Just use a plastic toothpick to apply sparingly, and leave in the garage for a day or two.Hope this helps.LOL

G O B

[tomme boy 0]

You will never get it to stay on with just the set screws alone. Look were the screws made contact with the barrel. You need to take a dremil and grind out a small depression in the barrel were the screws are goin to seat. Take the holes down about 1/16" then install and lock tight the screws. Or silver solder it on.

[Bvamp 604]

Yeh, what tomme boy said. good idea, but you MIGHT get away with using a hardened metal punch and just tapping (smashing really hard is a tap LOL) dents into your barrel where the screws are supposed to make contact too. I think maybe the number of set screws is an issue? how many are on it? also, try a torx bit on it. you might be able to get a better crank on the screw with the right one. dont strip it though....(obviously). another idea is, IF you have that kind of skills, is to weld a band that will fit between your screws, around the muzzle for something to grab onto. it would have to fit in there, but I guess you could shim like that and do a permanent weld to it too then?

[ATD 2]

silver solder?

whats that and where do you get it?

 

I don't really like the idea of grinding on my barrel too much but I like it better than smashing on it with a hammer

I have no problems with it being permanant and if I could weld it would already be on.

[Tengu 0]

Do what tommeboy said. Get hi-temp silver solder from Brownells.

 

http://www.brownells.com

 

Brownells tech support will tell you exactly what solder to buy and how to use it.

Edited May 22, 2004 by Tengu

[ATD 2]

what about JB weld?

do you guys think that would work?

it says it's heat resistant up to 500 degrees and it's used on engine parts so it should be able to take the vibration.

or is there something about it that just wouldn't work?

[G O B 3,516]

J.B. weld is too thick,and will not take the shock.For permanent mount use silver solder.Use quality materials-if you know someone with an acetyline or mapp gas torch this is fairly easy.Clean all parts shiny and use a good flux. LOL

G O B

[Bvamp 604]

parkerising is just "burnt right" by the way.

[ATD 2]

I can get map gas no prob, will I need more than an ounce of the solder?

and do I need to worry about damaging my barrel with too much heat?

[vjor 2]

silver solder hum , yes use silvaloy 355 , and ultra flux and get heat stop ( heat control paste) , you can get all at brownells , , this is the way , clean barrel of rifle , clean inside of muzzle brake to be install ( clean means, use emery paper or cload to clean

it ) put heat stop paste inside rifle barrel to avoid warp of barrel , put flux on barrel

put flux on muzzle brake and install muzzle into barrel , put some heat stop paste on barrel were you dont want it to solder and to stop heat transfer to the rest of the barrel , now that you got the muzzle brake on barrel use b-tank to heat barrel and muzzle brake to be solder ( small torch can be use , get mapp gas ( home depot ) ,heat parts to be solder even they will get ligth brown cherry , start to solder with silvaloy , make shure you do it on your back yard , or well ventilated area after soldering is done , clean muzzle of rifle and rifle . muzzle brakes for rifles need to be weld or silver solder to be stable on the gun , you can't use just any silver solder , on semy autos, heat of barrel will make low temp solder to melt and muzzle brake goes 15 yard down range.

by the way fumes are toxic and I mean toxic , this solder runs at 1, 117

and flows at about 1,200.

 

The rifle will need to be put on your oven ( home oven ) at 350 for about 30 minutes to cure the metal after the solder, to cure the metal and releas any stress on barrel and rifle, take small parts out of rifle .

 

good luck .

[ATD 2]

well guys I wimped out and went for tomme boy's first suggestion. I used a file to grind the notches, and used a bunch of loctite on it. it held for 25+ rounds so far, it moved a little bit but still seemed to work as well on the last clip as it did the first.