juancho 0 Posted April 26, 2006 Report Share Posted April 26, 2006 I just got my first saiga. I'd like to know what would be a good cleaning procedure for this kind of weapon. what should I clean ? I like to keep my firearms in good shape, but saiga's mechanisms are not the same that other rifles have. which one would be a good and cheap solvent that I could use in the whole rifle (bore, bolt, action, receiver, etc.) ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kresk 10,063 Posted April 26, 2006 Report Share Posted April 26, 2006 Always been partail to Hoppe's No.9 NitroSolvent here. Keep the gas ports clear. Would reccomend TS-70 Moly lubricant paste on all sliding and contacting parts. It's $20 for an 8 oz. tube but it wil last you years. Light gun oil or even some motor oils (without additives) are okay for corrosion protection, and it's cheap. Remember AK's weren't built to be massaged but to take abuse so they are very tolerant and reliable. Some of the guys here haven't cleaned them (at least the shottys) for thousands of rounds. No doubt opinions will vary. Just my 2 cents. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
44rdv4rk 0 Posted April 26, 2006 Report Share Posted April 26, 2006 it's an AK based weapon... swab the barrel and you're good to go! maybe clean the carbon out of the gas tube occasionally Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AK-treO8 0 Posted April 26, 2006 Report Share Posted April 26, 2006 (edited) In the makers own words.... "Even after lying in a swamp you can pick up this rifle, aim it and shoot. That's the best job description there is for a gun. Real soldiers know that and understand it," -Mikhail Kalashnikov, April 18, 2006. From: http://edition.cnn.com/2006/WORLD/europe/0...lashnikov.reut/ Clean it a lot to keep it pretty, or don't...either way it should prove to be a very reliable rifle. I use a bore snake on the barrel, wipe/brush out the receiver every once in a while with a little #9 and use a little bit of gun oil on the springs and contact points. Look at the standard cleaning kit new AKs (Saiga, Romanian, etc) come with...there's not much to it. Edited April 26, 2006 by AK-treO8 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunslinger308 0 Posted April 27, 2006 Report Share Posted April 27, 2006 ED's RED is a great cleaner, solvent, lube for your saiga and all your guns. It is cheap to make and will work on any gun. I use it on my saiga-308, ruger 10/22, SA XD-9, Baretta AL391 auto shotgun, sks, and all my other guns. I would use it on any gun I owned. here is the recipe: Ed's Red Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mckirdyp 0 Posted April 27, 2006 Report Share Posted April 27, 2006 Always been partail to Hoppe's No.9 NitroSolvent here. Keep the gas ports clear. Would reccomend TS-70 Moly lubricant paste on all sliding and contacting parts. It's $20 for an 8 oz. tube but it wil last you years. Anyone know a good type of shop that would carry this TS70 Lubricant locally?? I hate ordering tiny crap like that. Thanks! Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Birrdog 0 Posted April 28, 2006 Report Share Posted April 28, 2006 Always been partail to Hoppe's No.9 NitroSolvent here. Keep the gas ports clear. Would reccomend TS-70 Moly lubricant paste on all sliding and contacting parts. It's $20 for an 8 oz. tube but it wil last you years. Anyone know a good type of shop that would carry this TS70 Lubricant locally?? I hate ordering tiny crap like that. Thanks! Paul I am in the Dallas area and I would like to know where to get that TS70 moly lube also. I have looked but if anyone knows where we can buy it please let us all Saiga owners know. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Unknown Poster 5 Posted April 28, 2006 Report Share Posted April 28, 2006 (edited) You can order it from McMaster Carr Industrial Suppy Co. there on the net too. Just go to their site and search for anti-seize and about halfway down the page is a premium moly anti-seize they will send you TS-70 moly. I have used and tested moly since the 70's and i use it in all my guns rifles and pistols. In my Saiga's i put it in the receiver on the rails, bolt carrier/bolt, gas piston/gas tube(just a little moly) and on the trigger sear. It reduces trigger pull and smooths out the trigger too. The saiga will cycles faster and smoother too. Moly works it way into the small pores of the metal eliminating metal to metal contact its moly against moly thus no wear at all, no metal to metal contact means less friction too. If your not using moly and seeing wear your lube isn't working....and you should be using moly. I have used moly in my very first sks since the late 80's and the rails inside the receiver show no sign of any wear yet today. My gas piston is still snug too. You can hammer your Saiga without the worry of ever wearing it out, it brings the receiver/moving parts that would wear out in time to an even level with the chrome lined barrel and chamber so the gun will never wearout now for sure. The gun should last for my lifetime, my kids lifetime and into my great great grandkids lifetime too. Lets face it if your seeing wear and not using moly thats unacceptable. Moly eliminates all wear, reduces friction and prevents galling too, plus it stays were you put it and it doesn't attract dirt too. Moly my guns never leave home without it. Edited April 28, 2006 by Unknown Poster Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SaigaShooter 0 Posted April 28, 2006 Report Share Posted April 28, 2006 I bore snake my x39, but i've heard of people dissasembling the rifle, putting the parts in the back of a pickup and taking it to a drive through car wash, and there is also the soak overnight with Break-Free, hose down, then oil method. Personally, I wouldnt want to risk rusting anything with the latter methods. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kyrinn 0 Posted April 28, 2006 Report Share Posted April 28, 2006 If I get back late from the range (usually), I just spray a little WD-40 into the barrel overnight. In the morning, I get my AK cleaning rod and kit and use Hoppe's #9, then follow it with BreakFree CLP. I put Permatex Anti-Seize Lubricant Advanced Formula on the rails, hammer-hump, sear, bolt/carrier, and piston, then rub it in with Q-tips or a paper towel, then am liberal with BreakFree CLP on those parts, as well. The Piston gets sooty (South Afrrican surplus ammo.), but wipes off with no effort. The internals never attract more than one Q-tip of soot, and they are still slick and good to go. The AK-47 brush is a nice snug fit, and so it gets all the crud out in the frist chamber to muzzle pass. CLP on the exterior metal, too, to keep it all nice and shiny. The Permatex was $4.49 for a 4 fl.oz. plastic bottle with brush-cap, at my local ACE Hardware. It is advertised to resist temperatures between -60 and 1600* Farenheit http://www.permatex.com/products/automotiv...Lubricant_a.htm I also use it on my AR bolt carrier (along with BreakFree CLP). Best, -Kyrinn Quote Link to post Share on other sites
juancho 0 Posted April 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2006 what about carb cleaner ? I've heard it's the best solvent you can get...but, will it harm the finish or any part ??? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Harpoon 0 Posted April 29, 2006 Report Share Posted April 29, 2006 Carb cleaner is good for getting stuff out of nooks and crannies where it is hard to reach with anything else. It does clean off all lubricants though so you need to relube. You should wear something like nitrile gloves if you get this stuff on your hands (I always get overspray), it is not good for skin contact. It will probably eat stock finish in a hurry. Don Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Makarovnut 0 Posted May 18, 2006 Report Share Posted May 18, 2006 My 2 cents, I have been using Seafoam's DEEP CREEP for my auto loading firearms as well as my machine tool. It seems to do pretty well on deposits, and leaves a light oil upon evaporation of the solvents. I have cans of it everywhere. Because only a light oil remains I will usually use another lube for the higher pressure areas in firearms. I am cheap and have had decent luck with anti-seize from Permatex. I am new to the Saiga .308 but think it's going to be a fun gun. The only thing I don't like so far is the lack of parts availability and that every piec of brass ejected is dented. Have fun, shoot your guns! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IndyArms 10,186 Posted May 18, 2006 Report Share Posted May 18, 2006 every piec of brass ejected is dented NO worries... EVERY SAIGA will do that, in every caliber... ( Rifles) I have several of each... and they all do it. Even my PSL ruins the brass beyond reloadability. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
snake54 0 Posted May 19, 2006 Report Share Posted May 19, 2006 Hoppe's #9 will remove the finish from the barrel. Ask me how I know this. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kresk 10,063 Posted May 19, 2006 Report Share Posted May 19, 2006 Hoppe's #9 will remove the finish from the barrel. Ask me how I know this. Ummm........that's why it needs to be used to clean the bore only.............. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted May 20, 2006 Report Share Posted May 20, 2006 The bore is chrome lined, and cleans easily. If you use synthetic oil you can practically wipe with a rag. G O B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kyrinn 0 Posted May 20, 2006 Report Share Posted May 20, 2006 every piec of brass ejected is dented NO worries... EVERY SAIGA will do that, in every caliber... ( Rifles) I have several of each... and they all do it. Even my PSL ruins the brass beyond reloadability. How much of a dent is too much of one for reloading purposes? The brass out of my Saiga .308 is in great shape with just a bit of a dent in the throat of the case. One I kept had no distortion at all that I can see. A .270 shell I picked up at the range has far worse throat bend. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IndyArms 10,186 Posted May 20, 2006 Report Share Posted May 20, 2006 A small dent in the rim of the case neck will come right out with the resizing die, thats not an issue. The problem is in the sidewalls below the shoulder... very small dents there can be worked with... but with larger dents and dings, due to the nature of the powder charges used for a particular load, some larger volume powder charges could cause you to get unstable pressure conditions, as your filling a smaller cartridge volume with the same amount of powder. I am not saying it will necessarily be DANGEROUS... It is just just that as the case will re-fireform upon ignition of the powder charge, that re-expansion of the brass in that spot stresses the case. It is already a weakened spot and potentially can cause a case rupture. Its just not a condition I want to mess with. Not to mention it will NOT give you consistent results when reloading for top accuracy. Many individuals that reload for extreme accuracy will cull even the minor defects from their brass, as to remove potential problems. If you have very small dents or dings, and reload for plinking rounds just to have it cheaper than factory... Chances are it will not hurt anything... My PSL brass, as noted above, though will have dents in the nature of 1/8th of an inch deep in the sidewalls... brass will actually be SCRAPED off leaving a burr... and the case necks so dented as to be 2/3rds of the way closed... Yeah... I probably COULD reload them... but I wouldnt want to shoot any of it... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kyrinn 0 Posted May 20, 2006 Report Share Posted May 20, 2006 Indy, My .308 leaves the brass in excellent shape (both MilSurp, and Black Hills), based on what you've described. I'm inching toward re/hand loading and I very much appreciate this kind of information. Best, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IndyArms 10,186 Posted May 20, 2006 Report Share Posted May 20, 2006 If you dont have any reloading equipment at the moment... I WARN you... it is just as dangerous as the Saiga bug, if you catch it... There are the issues of the press, and then dies, and brass, and bullets, powder, primers, sizers, brass trimmers, primer pocket cleaners, reamers, tumblers, micrometers, scales, more bullets, more powder, more primers, case holders, case lube, tools, dis - dat - de-uddah-ting.... and then some... It seems to be a never ending story of junk for reloading... Good luck!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
O.S.O.K. 0 Posted May 20, 2006 Report Share Posted May 20, 2006 If you dont have any reloading equipment at the moment... I WARN you... it is just as dangerous as the Saiga bug, if you catch it... There are the issues of the press, and then dies, and brass, and bullets, powder, primers, sizers, brass trimmers, primer pocket cleaners, reamers, tumblers, micrometers, scales, more bullets, more powder, more primers, case holders, case lube, tools, dis - dat - de-uddah-ting.... and then some... It seems to be a never ending story of junk for reloading... Good luck!! What are trying to do? Scare him off of handloading? Seriously, Indy is right - it can get just as expensive as the rifles themselves, but you don't need all the stuff Indy lists to get very satisfactory results. A Lee anniversary kit and a set of dies will do the trick to start with and not set you back much more than $110 at the most. Not necessarily recommening going this route unless you are trying to conserve $$ - otherwise, I recommend RCBS's rockchucker press or if you want progressive, go Dillon - or start with Dillion single stage and upgrade to progressive later. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IndyArms 10,186 Posted May 20, 2006 Report Share Posted May 20, 2006 What are trying to do? Scare him off of handloading? Umm... I think Kyrinn is a SHE... if I am not mistaken... And no... not trying to scare anyone... just letting them be completely aware of how the reloading bug bites... In all honesty, though.. many of the items I have listed ARE VERY HELPFUL if you want to get good results from reloading. A cheap lee anniversary press will do the job. A set of dies will run less than 30 bucks. powder is about 15-20 bucks a pound, bullets are in the area of 15 bucks a hundred, primers are inexpensive. Then you get to things like a powder measure, and case reamer... usually both come with a lee anniversary press kit. The scales and micrometer are aftermarket items, and I feel are very necessary tools to acheive accurate results. You GOTTA have case lube... or you are screwed... and case holders just make things easy... Reloading can be started very inexpensively...but with time, and new dies, and new loads... it just seems to snowball... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
O.S.O.K. 0 Posted May 20, 2006 Report Share Posted May 20, 2006 What are trying to do? Scare him off of handloading? Umm... I think Kyrinn is a SHE... if I am not mistaken... And no... not trying to scare anyone... just letting them be completely aware of how the reloading bug bites... Oops -- sorry Kyrinn. Yeah, I know all about the reloading bug - I've got quite a bit of equipment - rockchucker, ammomaster, dillon b-square, around 40 dies sets, etc, etc. - all the stuff you listed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kyrinn 0 Posted May 21, 2006 Report Share Posted May 21, 2006 Hee-hee, yup I'm female. No worries. Indy, Oh, you sure know how to talk-dirty and get me all excited. Yeah, when I finally get into loading, I'll need to go all the way. I'm even cooking up plans for new calibre-combos, like 5.45x25 and crazy stuff like that. And to think, it all started with just my GLOCK 22. Whoda' thunk I'd put together an AK pistol, own a Saiga .308, and build an AR15. Now, to dream of dies, trimmers, tumblers, and micrometers... Thanks again. Best, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IndyArms 10,186 Posted May 21, 2006 Report Share Posted May 21, 2006 Oh, you sure know how to talk-dirty and get me all excited. Yeah, when I finally get into loading, I'll need to go all the way. I will be more than happy to whisper sweet nothings in your ear about diferent powder burn rates, and how different primers will yeild different consistencies in chronograph velocity testing... Maybe once in a great while, when I feel EXTRA saucy I will whisper to you about my... LONG... THICK... .50 BMG reloading equipment!! and the... "Factory Crimp die" I just bought... SEE??!?!?... I know how to talk to a real woman... LOL Sounds like you already have been nibbled on by the reloading bug... It wont take long before you are inundated with all things "reloading" and will be able to tune your loads to tighter and tighter groups!!! GOOD LUCK!!! Its all good!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rangerruck 0 Posted June 6, 2006 Report Share Posted June 6, 2006 im soaking my saigas in a stainless steel trough i had built, in sweet shooters, for 7 days, then i will moly coat the bbl/action/reveiver. I know, over kill. should be super easy to clean forever, though. Usually when i clean, i dont like scrubbing, i think it wears things out faster than anything else, so i like to use gunscrubber by gunslick. Let the foam do all the work, leave it in for about 15 mins. swap it out, repeat twice. I also have a water heater that gives out nuclear temps, and a kitchen sink head that puts out fire hydrant pressure. So I blast all the crud out with the water, and the water is so hot , it evaporates in about 5 secs. then i lightly oil up everything with an old whale oil rag, swab oil the bbl., and im good to go. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kyrinn 0 Posted June 6, 2006 Report Share Posted June 6, 2006 Oh, Indy! > swooning < Yes. Getting hot in here. > blushing at mention of .50 BMG < When I have the money together, I'll contact you for a good beginner's kit. Thanks for tempting me. Best, -Kyrinn Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IndyArms 10,186 Posted June 6, 2006 Report Share Posted June 6, 2006 Kyrinn, actually, the good beginners kit was already mentioned. LEE makes a wonderful beginners kit for a very reasonable price. It has just about everything you need to get started. Add a set of the proper caliber dies, and you are ready to go. Of course you will need powder, primers, and bullets, and load info... but thats true for even the most serious reloader. Cant do it without components. The extras to make it all better come later, with time. Glad you enjoyed my BMG! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mckirdyp 0 Posted June 6, 2006 Report Share Posted June 6, 2006 You can order it from McMaster Carr Industrial Suppy Co. there on the net too. Just go to their site and search for anti-seize and about halfway down the page is a premium moly anti-seize they will send you TS-70 moly. Moly eliminates all wear, reduces friction and prevents galling too, plus it stays were you put it and it doesn't attract dirt too. Moly my guns never leave home without it. Is this the stuff? Sorry, I'm just a stickler for details http://www.tsmoly.com/catalog/product_info...&products_id=89 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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