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Here it is as it sits now, just need a few more covers, and an Uber Deadly tac light, cause shit, every range I go to is to fucking dark to see anything with without one.

 

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Yes, I know my grass is fucked up right now, but I just redid the irrigation lines, and it hasn't grown in over the dirt yet.

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and one pic of little sister just cause she has to tag along for the ride.

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I just need to do a refinish on it and have the old holes welded over and smoothed out and it will be completely done. That and a Paracord or foam wrap for the ACE stock.

 

 

Does any one know if the EAA info can be relocated from the side where it is? I am definitely filling in the "Read Owners Manual... Blah Blah Blah" off of the side, but I would really like the importer info moved in front of the Magwell on the bottom.

Hmmm.

 

 

IJ

 

 

PS, Skeet shoots are interesting with this. the looks I get can only be described as "Priceless" or "Fucking Kids"

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Don't worry about the EAA markings. U.S. law and ATF Rulings do not require you to keep them intact.

You can legally remove all markings on a non-NFA firearm EXCEPT THE SERIAL NUMBER.

 

Before doing this though... check your local state laws as they may differ from the federal regulations.

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Don't worry about anyone else hearing it. Just check other boards, you'll find images of Tech Branch response letters stating this as fact. It's required for production/manufacture/import, but it's not required to be maintained on a firearm by the owner.

 

Think of all the custom pistols/rifles out there that have markings on the slides and barrels. Many of these have been replaced... no issue.

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Right on man.

IJ

 

You know, I was just trying some mag changes to make sure that the forward grip doesn't effect anything, and it actually seems to help by acting as a guide. I am actually able to do it faster right now than usual. It is either that, or I just have my game on at this moment.

 

IJ

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Need to add one more thing before completion as well that I had forgotten about.

 

 

Tony, I need one of those new crazy ass door breaching MBs that you made. the really sharp ass pointy one with the Shark Gill slots on the top. Got any for sale yet?

 

IJ

 

Nice....see ya got ya a M92 lever to boot.

 

 

 

Nope, its one of Blackjacks SWIFT levers. It is similar to the one on the M92, but there is a finger catch in just the right place that it can be activated without removing your trigger hand from the P grip.

 

I have them on all of my AK based toys, except my M92 which I left original.

 

IJ

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What size ace is that?

 

Small, reg, or long?

 

BTW, noticed the internal block. I have been considering one of those, but am wary of cutting off the tang. How do you like it?

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I love it. I actually pulled this one from my SAR1, and am going to convert my SAR1 back to a really nice laminate set. It is going in soon for a new Trunnion.

 

I think it is either the standard or the long, but it has been over a year since I got it that I can't remember which it is. I just know it fits me perfectly. I am waiting on some Paracord to come in so I can wrap it, and a sling stud as well.

 

If you know that you will never change it out to a standard stock, or don't mind either riveting in a new rear trunnion or paying $50-$100 to put a new one on, then I say go for it. It took me less than 5 minutes to do the mod and install the stock. I know my S12 will stay this way, and have been planning this from the beginning.

 

 

Just need Jman to get that Magwell up and rocking.

 

 

 

IJ

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:wub: What rail system is that on the S-12? What did it take to mount it? :wub:

 

 

 

What is it? Its a POF Predator rail for a 20in AR. Cost is around $300, but I scored it for $100 from a friend of mine.

 

What did it take? About an hour or so of Dremel work, tons of measurements to make sure it went on streight, and the knowledge that it is going to be perminent. I had to remove a pretty good amount of metal from the lower side of the gas block, remove both sights, and lightly file the left and right side of the front latch area for the top cover, and the 1oclock and 11oclock spots on the top of the gas block, around the gas adjustment.

I can put the original foregrip back on, but it fits really loosly on it.

 

 

You can remove the top cover without removing the rail, as well as the Bolt and the Bolt carrier. You must remove the Bolt first though, and then pull back and rotate the carrier until it is out. getting it out is actually fairly easy, getting it in on the other hand takes some time.

 

For cleaning, I remove the rail (Held on my the original bottom screw that I shortened up, and 3 set screws that I dimpled the top of the rear sight block for) and then take down as normal.

 

So far the Trijicon has maintained Zero, and has been bad ass for "Tactical Trap N Skeet" and Quail hunting.

 

 

I need to go shooting again soon damnit. I was supposed to go today and got bailed on, so I went Gun shopping instead with a friend of mine. He ended up getting one of the Baikal/ Rem Spartan Semi Autos. Actually a pretty nice little Shotty for the price he paid.

 

IJ

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I make a run of those door breachers every week. Just call in an order and I'll make one for you.

 

I have a copy of the ATF letter that states you can remove all markings except the S/N. They highly discourage it though. I won't do it in the Tromix shop however. Stirring up the ATF is never a good idea when you're in this business.

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