Any accurizig tricks for Saiga 223?

[beavis 0]

What research I have done reveals that the S-223 does not have bad accuracy for an AK platform but I am

curious if there are any mods that can be done to squeeze out some more working accuracy. I realize it is not a benchrester and not a 400 yd prairie dog gun but if there is something that can be done why not try it?

 

If I could zap some crows and groundhogs out to 200 I would be happy.

[IndyArms 10,186]

A new trigger for starters... even the G2 triggers are very crisp, although not super light.

 

GOOD ammo... I cant stress enough how much bearing ammo quality has on accuracy.

 

I found that 55 gr. Moly coated hollowpoints from Black Hills shot EXCEPTIONALLY well in my Saiga .223

 

I am sure there are other things, but those two off the top of my head are the quickest, and probably the most important.

 

[Bvamp 604]

I hate to state the obvious, but contrary to what the rest of the guys will say, drinking copious amounts of beer is NOT GOOD for accuracy or your marriage!

 

(sorry, had to get that one in there guys!)

[O.S.O.K. 0]

Well, one more thing IMHO: get one of the low-mount weaver scope rails and decent 3x9 scope (or your favorite) to mount on it and ditto on the fcg (might add the Red Star fcg - is adjustable to single stage, light break) and ammo - get several different types of ammo to try out in it - one or more will show superior accuracy to the rest.

 

Here's one place to get the mount: http://www.freedomoptics.com/Comersus/stor...p?idProduct=141 and the fcg: http://www.redstararms.com/

Edited June 26, 2006 by O.S.O.K.

[rangerruck 0]

first off, the black hills, up to 62 grns, are very good, and the winchester 45 varmint round is a one hole punch in mine. i also dunked mine in a stainless steel trough , i had built for just this occasion, and filled it with sweetshooters. left it soaking for about 1 week, out in the heat of a covered porch, here in Houston. then i molycoated the bore.

What does all this do , you ask. the sweetshooters, removes ANY even teeny tiny remoatest bit of any type of h20 , that might be locked up in pores somewhere. That controls, expansion, contraction , etc. it is also a super dry lube, I mean to tell you. when i took it out of the trough, and let it set for about 10 mins, i came back and it looked a ghostly grey white, i wiped all the parts down with a synthetic oil just to keep me from freakin' out! the sweetshooters is a great penetrant, and will also completely remove and carbon hiding anywhere, it's moecues are so small. The moly works much the same way , but is more of a wet lube. Avery good small pore filler for the inside of your bbls, and combines with the top layers of the inside of your bbl, to change the molecular level tension and friction of metal to metal contact. In other words, it is slicker than snot on a doorknob! helps also to keep a very uniform diameter opeining straight down the inside of the bbl, for better bullet / gas lock/ gripping as it goes down the bbl. Also gives better lubricity to the bullet as it moves down the bbl, with less bullet deformation.

Anyway, thats what i did. it is moa at 100 yds with open sites.

[O.S.O.K. 0]

what's this sweetshooters stuff you are talking about? where to get it, etc.?

 

I have a SAR-1 that has some stuborn carbon fouling that I just can't seem to get out of the grooves in the rifeling. If this stuff will take it out, that would be great!

[rangerruck 0]

well i go to all the shows around houston, so i get mine a few bucks cheaper, 'cuz i know all the dealers, but man lemme tell you, it still ain't cheap! go to this site. http://tecrolan.com/ I cna get the pint cans for 15 bucks, and I got the 1/2 gal , i think it is, that comes with paste, cleaning kit, big tooth brush, with stainless steel deep pan and stainless steel grate for 90 bucks , i believe it was. you gotta put your stuff in stainless. I had a steel shop build me a trough that was 6 inches wide 3 inches deep, and 36 inches long, to dunk whole bbls and actions. cost was about 50 bucks. if you have one built , make sure to tell them to weld up the sides tight, as you are going to use it to hold in very small pore liquid.. again this will work very well as a dry lube, and you can see from the site, they use it in a ton of other apps. you can also condition your bore with it, i know that everything is super easy to clean now. and after i do shoot, i take my rifles apart, look down the bore, and you would swear i haven't put a round down it yet. i take apart my actions on my blowback rimfires, wipe them off with an old sock, they come out shiny and clean.

http://tecrolan.com/

Edited July 1, 2006 by rangerruck

[rangerruck 0]

as an aside; i bought an old marlin mod 81 off an auction site, really wanted this rifle ,as it shoots all the 22 rounds, holds 25 shorts in the tube, and has a factory peep site! could not tell from the site pics how bad a shape it was in, but he had said it had no bluing, was rusty, and the action was rough. So i took a chance and bought it. when i got it , and took it out of the shipping box , IT WAS ORANGE! i was horrified to say the least. complete rust bucket. i remebered talking to the sweetshooters guy here a bunch, so i deciced to buy some at the next show and give it a shot.

took it out of the stock, stood it up vertically , and for the next week , every time i walked by the rifle, I toothbrushed it down, from muzzle to action, lightly scrubbing all the springs and stuff in the action, getting some down the muzzle , etc. had it standing in a shallow stainless pan.

after 1 week, except for no bluing whatsoever, it looked fantastic. So I decided to see if the guy was lying to me , about it totally keeping moisture away from all surfaces, and gave it a torture test. i put it in a fur type lined, 40 year old rifle bag, and put it in the back of my car, from march to the end of may. In Houston, that means you will go from cold drizzly weather, to humidity and heat in may and june being the same reading!

During this time, it rained in buckets, steamed up the inside of my car, plus when i put it in my trunk, my trunk is leaky!

I pulled it out , first week of June, and not one spot more of rust on it anywhere! I went back to the dude at the next gunshow, and showed him the rifle! he told me to write the company and tell them. Even he was pretty impressed with that one.

no rubbing or buffing of any kind, and look how shiny and clean this thing looks,after leaving it in my car, i

have fired a 1000 rounds through it , and have not cleaned it yet! look at the bolt , handle, trigger and mag pusher. remember this thing is 70 years old, and was completely pitted over , and a total rust bucket.

I just remembered one more thing, if you use this on your saiga, since they are not blued and just basically painted, let it thoroughly air dry! if you wipe it off while it is still damp, it will be under your paint, and will wipe it right off! So let it dry thoroughly, i started to wipe mine off, just a little on the rear right of the receiver, and the paint start to swirl on me! so i stopped immediately.

Edited July 1, 2006 by rangerruck

[O.S.O.K. 0]

wow, that is impressive! Thanks for the link!