ddhotbot 0 Posted July 9, 2006 Report Share Posted July 9, 2006 I am looking for some instructions on how to tear down my .410 for a good cleaning. Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Don Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IndyArms 10,186 Posted July 9, 2006 Report Share Posted July 9, 2006 Ok, so ya got yourself a NEW .410 and want to clean it... Heres the dirt. (PUN INTENDED! ) Make sure your Saiga is UNLOADED!!!! NO MAGAZINE INSERTED!!!! Ok, you checked it... now...check it again, just to be sure you didnt miss one the last time you just looked! My cleaning tools of the trade... A standard .410 cleaning kit with rods, mops, brushes, and tips/jags, Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber spray, and Sheath oil spray, Hoppes #9 powder solvent, nylon toothbrush, bronze "toothbrush", cotton (t-shirt material) patches, blue cloth shop towels, 90 degree angle pick, borelight. Seriously... make sure it is unloaded. Set the selector lever into the FIRE position. Depress the little button at the rear of the dustcover, and push the rear retainer into the dustcover, which at this point the dustcover will lift up and off. Push the retainer and recoil spring assembly forward out of the groove, and lift up slightly, and pull it towards the rear, free of the bolt carrier. Pull the bolt carrier towards the rear, at the rearmost position, it will lift up and out towards the back. Rotate the bolt, located on the bolt carrier, so that it can pull out of the front of the carrier. Near the front end of the shotgun, locate the gas selector. Depress the plunger, and unscrew the gas selector. This sometimes takes a little bit... as you get 1/2 turn and have to depress the plunger again... for several turns until it is high enough to miss the plunger. Remove the gas piston from the now open gas tube towards the front. It may require you to push from the rear, through the gas tube, with a cleaning rod to pop it out to the front. Remove the thread protector/choke tube from the muzzle of the shotgun. Dont forget... Lefty Tighty, Righty Loosey... Left Hand Threads on this Russian beauty. You now have a stripped Saiga .410. I like to use a spray solvent on most or all of the parts, Birchwood Casey GUN SCRUBBER works wonderfully. The old fashioned Hoppes #9 is always a good choice! An old toothbrush, and some rags to wipe parts with is a plus. I spray gun scrubber into the internals...Receiver, trigger, hammer, sear, etc..etc... and on each of the parts, I like to hit each with a toothbrush, then another shot of gun scrubber, then a quick wipe with a shopcloth and let them dry. You may want to check the rails that the bolt carrier rides along now... make sure they are clean, and free of dings/metal bits... this will free up the cycling. Many folks add a MOLY type lube to these surfaces to really slick up the action of the Saiga. I personally have a teflon gel that I apply SPARINGLY... it works. Synthetic motor oil is also an excellent choice for lubing up the internals... used sparingly. Too much oil internally is a magnet for grunge/powder residue and will create a gumming action, instead of a lubricating one. DO NOT USE WD-40 INSIDE THE RECEIVER FOR THIS EXACT REASON!!!!! WD-40 is notorious for turning slick into *stick*!!!! It is fine to wipe the outside with... just NOT INTERNALLY!!! You will want to spray gun scrubber into the gas tube, or run a solvent saturated mop, and then a 20 gauge bore brush down the gas tube to remove any fouling in there, and some patches for the remainder of the powder residue. Then a blast of Gun Scrubber to final clean. You want to be sure to check the gas port to the barrel is free, and completely open, with either a small pick, pipe cleaners, or a good blast of Gun Scrubber. A hoppes #9 saturated toothbrush is awesome for cleaning out the residue in the more open section where the gas piston sits. Clean the barrel as you would a standard .410. Run a mop saturated with solvent, then a brush, then patches till clean. Clean the barrel/chamber LAST as you will not want gunk from the gas port getting into the barrel after you have just cleaned it... likewise the gunk from the receiver will get in there with gun scrubber spray. Mind you, this wont HURT anything... just why bother to clean the barrel out twice... clean the barrel threads with a solvent saturated cloth, brush out the threads of the thread protector/choke tube, lightly oil the threads on the barrel, and re-thread the muzzle attachment. When cleaning the already removed parts, I use Hoppes #9 or Gun scrubber on each, then scrub with a toothbrush, and then another blast of Gun scrubber to remove the residue. The bolt carrier will usually be the dirtiest by the tip. When clean it should have a nice silver piston threaded into the black bolt carrier unit. If a scrubbing doesnt remove all the black carbon buildup on the tip of the bolt carrier, you can use a stiffer wire brush saturated with hoppes, or whatever you use, to remove any fouling. I give the hole in the back of the bolt carrier, where the spring inserts a good spray out too... a mop, and then another spray out of gunscrubber. Then I hit it with a sprits of Sheath or other light oil. The gas piston also will be VERY dirty and may require extra solvent/brushing to remove all fouling. You will probably never get it shiny, so dont bother to try. as long as it is clean and the edges are free of residue, it will be fine. The bolt gets extra attention with the brush as well. Make sure the extractors are cleaned out, and that they work. they are spring loaded and should move slightly. I also like to make sure the tip of the firing pin is round, and not chipped/damaged/deformed... the firing pin located in the bolt needs to be cleaned out at the rear, where it is wide and flat. Make sure there is no gunk left in the firing pin channel. The firing pin should almost rattle... it is NOT spring loaded. I spray and then wipe down the return spring with solvent/gunscrubber. There is no need to remove it from the support structure. make sure the seating groove at the rear of the receiver is cleaned out and open, and free of dings, or obstructions that will cause difficulty in replacing the sliding portion of the bolt carrier return spring assembly. Although if it came out VERY easily, chances are this is all well and fine. Once you have cleaned each of the removed parts with your favorite gun cleaning solvent, and the internals of the gun are all cleaned, you will want to coat each with a LIGHT OIL. I like to spray all the parts down with Birchwood Casey SHEATH, then lightly wipe each down with a light cloth. Time to Reassemble. When inserting the bolt into the carrier, you will see the tab that needs to align into the curved channel in the bolt carrier. you want the bolt inserted in the carrier, in that channel and rotated forward to the stop position. The gas piston goes in either way, there is no front or back... then retighten the threaded gas selector to full seated position, then back off to the first point that it clicks into either number 1 or 2 depending on which loads you plan to shoot. If you noted, while dissassembled, the selector has a beveled edge on the inside. That correlates to how much gas will be released onto the gas piston, and transferred to the bolt carrier. 1 for magnum loads (restricted gas flow) 2 for light loads (unrestricted gas flow) It is best to run all loads on setting 1 if it will. It may require some break in, but after time it should run it all on Setting #1. there is "potential for damage" from excessive bolt slamming from being on setting #2 and running magnum loads like slugs through the shotgun. Insert the bolt carrier along the slots at the rear of the receiver, making sure the hammer is DOWN in the cocked position!!! Push DOWN and slide the bolt carrier assembly forward along the rails inside the receiver. Insert the bolt carrier recoil spring into the hole of the bolt carrier, and slide it forward, down into the groove at the rear of the receiver, and let it slip back into the grooves, locking in place. Place the front of the dust cover in the forward groove, and push down at the rear on TOP. it should CLICK into place, and while new, may require a good smack to get it to seat correctly. Be sure to keep note of position of the front... and make sure it remains in the groove while slapping the rear into place. It can be the trickiest part of the whole operation is replacing the dustcover until you get the hang of it. At this point, I wipe all of the outside surfaces down with a light oil, and the shotgun is finished! Simple! now go get it dirty and you can do it all over again!!! This is like the third time I wrote out a cleaning instruction tutorial... so THIS TIME I am going to PIN IT UP!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ddhotbot 0 Posted July 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2006 thanks indy! my gun doesnt match your directions exactly though. i only have 1 setting for the gas knob and my firing pin feels as if its spring loaded. also my piston is hollow on one side and solid on the other.i have had this 410 for about 6 or 7 years if that makes a difference.anyway i think i figured it out with help from your instructions.don Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IndyArms 10,186 Posted July 10, 2006 Report Share Posted July 10, 2006 Yes, it does... you have the older style that is NOT adjustable for gas passage, and is geared towards the 3" magnums only. Ignore the part about the gas regulator... and the rest should be good. Glad to be of help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bugeye 2 Posted December 29, 2006 Report Share Posted December 29, 2006 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bxsega 0 Posted January 8, 2007 Report Share Posted January 8, 2007 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Psee 0 Posted January 14, 2008 Report Share Posted January 14, 2008 For anyone with a new Saiga .410, this is the BEST breakdown tutorial out there. I have followed it verbatim and it works perfectly! Thanks IndyArms! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
carlerikson 0 Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 When i unscrew the gas chamber, is it standard righty tighty lefty loosey and what if i dont have the tool kit? Do you know of anything good to use and a pic of the tool would really help. thanks. any help appreciated. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 Yep ...lefty loosey... I keep a wooden golf tee handy with the point squared off and use that to push the plunger in. It has a nice depression for my thumb or finger and if it slips it doesn't scratch anything. If the regulator is stuck I use a quarter. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdAblurr 0 Posted February 25, 2011 Report Share Posted February 25, 2011 (edited) Instructions were PERFECT, thanks very much! Now, I'd love to find a source of the manual for the Saiga .410 that is readable, the only one I can find (from an "official" factory source) is generic for all the sporting Saiga long arms - and the exploded parts diagrams are totally pixilated and not readable at all. Does any one have a decent parts breakdown for these? Thanks in advance!<br>Second wind question - my gas regulator plug is unmarked. NOT looking at all like the one in the FAQ section of this forum, either, it's more of a flush plug with a dime-width slot in it. Two notches, about 90 degrees apart (not 180 as pictured in FAQ section). Gun came with plug set in first ntoch as you screw it in - would have to go another 90 degrees of turn to hit second notch.<br><br>So, is first notch (as turns in) #1 and the second #2?<br> Edited February 28, 2011 by sidesaddle Quote Link to post Share on other sites
poolingmyignorance 2,191 Posted April 4, 2011 Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 golf tee is a great idea! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
quinci956 1 Posted April 8, 2011 Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 Breakdown??? Cleaning??? We are talking about a Saiga right? Just kidding, mine usually needs a good cleaning every 10 years or so. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
305tillimove 10 Posted April 10, 2011 Report Share Posted April 10, 2011 Breakdown??? Cleaning??? We are talking about a Saiga right? Just kidding, mine usually needs a good cleaning every 10 years or so. Cleaned mine once when I first got it to get it nice and lubed up...havetnt touched her since. Been 2 years now, no problems. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
drifter_ 3 Posted April 27, 2012 Report Share Posted April 27, 2012 (edited) Any thoughts on using this stuff on the rails? http://www.amazon.co...35555112&sr=8-3 Edited April 27, 2012 by drifter_ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.