.308 FSB

[termite 463]

Wouldn't it be easier to take off the barrel and run it between centers on the lathe, thread it and then ream the brake to size to be sure it was exactly true with the barrel??? At least it would if I knew how to remove the barrel. Set up in the lathe would be only minutes, a few more to thread it. The heat from welding will distort the barrel. We have tig, mig and stick welders, but HEAT is HEAT, it will make metal do wierd things. Or has anyone considered machining a brake about .010 smaller than the end of the barrel, sticking the end of the barrel in liquid nitrogen and then dropping the brake on. Liquid nitrogen is only about 300 or so below zero. We use it all the time to sleeve parts and install shafts, and when done, use the extra to blow up plastic coke bottles, makes a hellofa good boom.

[SOPMOD 254]

Wouldn't it be easier to take off the barrel and run it between centers on the lathe, thread it and then ream the brake to size to be sure it was exactly true with the barrel??? At least it would if I knew how to remove the barrel. Set up in the lathe would be only minutes, a few more to thread it. The heat from welding will distort the barrel. We have tig, mig and stick welders, but HEAT is HEAT, it will make metal do wierd things. Or has anyone considered machining a brake about .010 smaller than the end of the barrel, sticking the end of the barrel in liquid nitrogen and then dropping the brake on. Liquid nitrogen is only about 300 or so below zero. We use it all the time to sleeve parts and install shafts, and when done, use the extra to blow up plastic coke bottles, makes a hellofa good boom.

 

 

The whole point is the heat and pressing stresses never touch the barrel if you remove the front sight and attach the sleeve and thread couple to it (not the barrel).

 

Pressing out the barrel and turning it down is the easiest solution for those of us who have the tools but I had a barrel bend last time I pressed it and it was turning in 1.13" groups before I pressed it and 3" groups after pressing it off.

 

 

Making an FSB with a thread coupler will also be easier and cheaper than the obvious method for th people who don't have the skill or experience to work on their rifle but could easily knock out some pins and pres off their FSB and send it off to be converted:)

[mr. fudd 0]

How about just getting the widest brake available, opening it up on a lathe until it is the same inside diameter as the outer diameter of the FSB, milling a slot in the top of it to accomodate the front sight and then pinning it in place using the front pin on the FSB?

 

It might be a little thin, but it sounds a hell of a lot easier and less destructive than some of the other methods I've seen suggested here. The battery in my electronic calipers is dead, so I wasn't able to measure things exactly, but I did compare the brake on my SAR3 to the FSB on my S308 and it is about 4mm thicker.

[SOPMOD 254]

How about just getting the widest brake available, opening it up on a lathe until it is the same inside diameter as the outer diameter of the FSB, milling a slot in the top of it to accomodate the front sight and then pinning it in place using the front pin on the FSB?

 

It might be a little thin, but it sounds a hell of a lot easier and less destructive than some of the other methods I've seen suggested here. The battery in my electronic calipers is dead, so I wasn't able to measure things exactly, but I did compare the brake on my SAR3 to the FSB on my S308 and it is about 4mm thicker.

 

 

I imagine it would work but to get it perfectly straight would require making a mandrel to align it or the exiting projeectiles would whack the inside of the break.

 

Most NATO muzzle devices will be 22mm outer diameter so whatever the OD of the FSB around the barrel needs to be less than say 20mm or less?

 

 

Then the depth of the threadd area of this brake or adapter needs to be at least from the muzzle to a couple of mm behind the rearmost pin on the Saiga FSB?

 

This could easily be done but I think your brake exit port diameter would have to be opened up a lot to prevent alignment issues from causing an impact and ruinbing the whole thing.

 

I have a great 3 piece smith comp for an FN/FAL that I was originally going to mount on the Saiga I messes up but decided not to waste it but it has a nifty long collar that might work on a projct like this without having to cut into the body of the brake.

[cscharlie 107]

Or you could buy a pin on thread adaptor from rick-16 who posts on this board.?