Matt Norton 0 Posted August 10, 2006 Report Share Posted August 10, 2006 Hey everybody! I'm curious about taking the time to break-in my new saiga 308's barrel. My brother just told me that i need to break-in the barrel, so i looked it up and it just confused me how everyone had something different to say about it... So far ive figured it goes like this.. 1.Before taking any shots, put 3-4 patches of solvent down the barrel. 2.Let the last application soak 2 minutes. 3.Dry patch the barrel. 4.Wet-patch with copper solvent twice, being sure the entire barrel is wet. 5.Let second application of copper solvent soak 5 minutes. 6.Dry patch, noticing the blue streaks on the patch. 7.Fire a single shot. 8.Repeat steps 1-7 until the blue copper color on the patch is dramatically reduced. Your barrel is then broken in. 9.Once you have a clean patch, follow by putting a patch moistened with gun oil down the barrel. .. but you have to repeat "shoot,clean,shoot,clean,.." for about 25-40 shots! I understand that you break-in the barrel so that, basically, you wont have to clean it as often, and it will shoot more accurately.. I just wanna know if anyone thinks this is worth the time? I know some people are going to think that it would be stupid to put that much effort into what they would probably call a "cheap-ass saiga". But ef yall, it's my gun and ill baby it if i wanna!! ... course, if you think it really isnt worth all that time and work, not because its on a "cheap-ass saiga", but just because.. then i really appreciate your help! Maybe if anyone has a more efficient method they wouldnt mind passing along? Thank you very much! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IndyArms 10,186 Posted August 10, 2006 Report Share Posted August 10, 2006 LEts start off with the "myths" of the barrel break in... I say its a myth, because I cand find any substantial evidence to support it as GOSPEL... some say its prudet, others say a waste of time. Heres the logic behind barrel break in... "Removing any machining burrs left in the rifling..." Maybe on target rifles worth thousands of dollars where in competitions I would be earning my living... I would bother to waste the time on breaking in a barrel... I personally have NEVER "broken in" a barrel on ANY rifle I own... from .17HMR up to .50 BMG... I own over 30 rifles... and all shoot very decently... NOW... to your S-308. This is *NOT A TACK DRIVER* You should NOT EXPECT to get 1 hole groups with it at 100 yards. It is not a sniper rifle. It is an AK with a larger bullet chamber. It will shoot inch groups with good ammo. It is NOT DESIGNED to be a super accurate 1 hole group shooting rifle. In light of that... I would not bother to waste the time to "break in the barrel" which I would do with a shot, a few patches. repeat till 10... then 3 shots a few patches... repeat 10 more... then 5 shots and patches, repeat 10X... I have never heard of the painstaking directions you have come up with ... but hey... whatever works for you... Personally... I would go shoot it, enjoy it, and dont ask it to be more than it is... its an AK, and will perform like one. It will never let you down when you need it to go BANG. Welcome to the forums, and good luck and happy shooting!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted August 10, 2006 Report Share Posted August 10, 2006 Saiga's have CROME LINED BARRELS. Any berak-in technique for barrel seasoning DOES NOT APPLY. The barrel is what it is and will not change for thousands of rounds. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunguy51 0 Posted August 10, 2006 Report Share Posted August 10, 2006 --> QUOTE(G O B @ Aug 10 2006, 04:43 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Saiga's have CROME LINED BARRELS. Any berak-in technique for barrel seasoning DOES NOT APPLY. The barrel is what it is and will not change for thousands of rounds. like G OB said just go and shoot it don't have to do that clean dry patch stuff with that chromelined bore i have a saiga 308 and i get 3/4" with wolf goldline ammo and 1" to 1.25" with surplus all day with mineJUST GO SHOOT! JUST CLEAN AFTER A DAY ATTHE RANGE! gunguy51 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
badman400 3 Posted August 10, 2006 Report Share Posted August 10, 2006 Norton, here's what I've done with all my rifles and all of my pistols barrels as well. I give it the obligatory first cleaning just to make sure, then I take it out to the range and shoot the piss out of it until it's nice and warm. Then I moisten a barrel mop with Militec metal conditioner and swab the barrel while it's hot. I will do this a couple of times during the first trip to the range, and sometimes the second, because I do believe in the conditioning, self-lubricating, effects of Militec. Anything that can help to protect and prolong the barrel or any other part of any weapon that I paid good money for, makes sense to me. So far, with 24 weapons in the stable, all have been conditoned with Militec. And they all run like clocks! And I ain't believin' it's just luck. Works for me. YMMV. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
duner 0 Posted August 22, 2006 Report Share Posted August 22, 2006 (edited) here's DSA's proceedure for their barrels. i don't think their's is chrome lined. barrel breakin Edited August 22, 2006 by duner Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TonyRumore 1,332 Posted August 22, 2006 Report Share Posted August 22, 2006 I actually tested the break-in theory awhile back. I built a pair of identical Tromix AR-15 rifles, both sporting 25" stainless Pac-Nor super match bull barrels chambered in 20 Tactical. One I broke in by shooting/cleaning/shooting/cleaning, etc and the other I just fired as-is. After both had run 250 rounds, I cleaned them both and fired several five shot groups at 100 yards. Both guns turned in 3/8" avg. For whatever that is worth......... Tony 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
studmuff1228 0 Posted August 22, 2006 Report Share Posted August 22, 2006 I actually tested the break-in theory awhile back. I built a pair of identical Tromix AR-15 rifles, both sporting 25" stainless Pac-Nor super match bull barrels chambered in 20 Tactical. One I broke in by shooting/cleaning/shooting/cleaning, etc and the other I just fired as-is. After both had run 250 rounds, I cleaned them both and fired several five shot groups at 100 yards. Both guns turned in 3/8" avg. For whatever that is worth......... Tony did they both shoot the same when they were new ? i always wanted to hand lap my barrels but it would take a very long time Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cpileri 0 Posted August 22, 2006 Report Share Posted August 22, 2006 would running a course of Tubb's abrasive-impregnated ammo through it be of any value? I am not sure if 'breaking in' a barrel is designed to flatten the raised spots (like the Tubb's) or to 'fill in' the low spots, or polish up the chrome, or something else. But the Tubbs is for polishing and flattening the raised areas, presumably. Any use to that? too much hassle and expense for a non-tack-driving saiga? C- Quote Link to post Share on other sites
headshot 52 Posted August 22, 2006 Report Share Posted August 22, 2006 Its chrome-lined. Break it in by shooting it! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
studmuff1228 0 Posted August 23, 2006 Report Share Posted August 23, 2006 your right Quote Link to post Share on other sites
esminbritt 16 Posted June 11, 2012 Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 So I've been trying to find some info on this in other forums but I haven't quite gotten answers yet. I want to know about Russian Ammo. I specifically want to know if it's safe for the shooter, and also, if it's good for the gun. I have heard of backfire/misfires leading to injury or at least broken gun parts. I have also heard that Russian (steel) ammo can lead to fouling the barrel. My question is related to this thread in that I am breaking in a new barrel in my new Saiga .308. But I also would like to know for future references as well. I'm the kind of guy that will pay extra to keep stuff in better condition. I run synthetic oil, premium gas, etc. I clean my Glock G17 after every trip to the range. So on, so on. I don't mean to seem like a snob. I just figured you guys would have some good input. If the risks of russian ammo are TRULY minimal, than I'd just as soon save the money. But since I will put only 700 or so rounds a year through it, spending a few hundred bucks a year seems like a cheap fail safe. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jaba1017 71 Posted June 11, 2012 Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 Its chrome-lined. Break it in by shooting it! This is my understanding too. Pound her bore hole relentlessly with cheap Russian ammo. That will break her will and she'll do as you please after that. Seriously, my other Saigas tightened up after about 1,000 rounds without any magical procedure. Clean the bore and lightly oil before the first use. Clean it when you're done. I wouldn't worry about trying "season" the bore. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jaba1017 71 Posted June 11, 2012 Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 I want to know about Russian Ammo. I specifically want to know if it's safe for the shooter, and also, if it's good for the gun. I have heard of backfire/misfires leading to injury or at least broken gun parts. I have also heard that Russian (steel) ammo can lead to fouling the barrel. That's all propaganda and lies spread by the the US ammo industry. I've run thousands of rounds of Brown Bear in 7.62x39 and .223 along with surplus 7.62x54r and have never had a problem with any of it. The only ammo I bought for my Saiga .308 was Brown Bear. And the Brown Bear .308 is the best Brown Bear I've bought to date. I'm only 120 rounds into my first 500. But it is really nice stuff, clean, and fairly consistent. Now Tula is another story. I don't particularly care for Tula. Others might like it. I bought some Tula 9mm that destroyed my KelTec Sub2000 after 1000 rounds. There were dozens of ftf rounds in that 1,000. Tula 7.62x39 is filthy dirty and leaves your fingers black after loading it. Tula .223 is a little better. Of the Tula brand the .223 is the closest to acceptable. Wolf I have only bought one 500 round box of .223 Military Classic. It shoots well. The bullets have a funny powdery coating on them that I'm not that fond of. It's suppose to keep them from jamming in the magazines. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rhodes1968 1,638 Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 Using steel ammo in a rifle designed for it perfectly fine, for instance it will have beefy extractors. Using in some firearms designed for brass might lead to problems with the extractor for example. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
esminbritt 16 Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 (edited) That makes sense. I certainly don't mind saving some hard earned dough. Last week I was talking to my buddy, sharing some of the anti-russian ammo propaganda, and he said "Isn't the gun Russian?" And he knows less about rifles than I do (which ain't a whole lot to start with). Does Brown bear make good BTHP's? Edited June 13, 2012 by EZTundra77 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jaba1017 71 Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 (edited) I don't think Brown Bear makes a hollow point in .308. Ultimately, settled on soft points as my preference and Brown Bear produces a soft point in .223, 7.62x39 and .308. I've been satisfied with each of those and haven't had any feed problems. My experience with the Russian soft points is that they tear a larger exit hole in targets than the hollow points. Someone else might have had a different experience. Brown Bear is a flat base bullet. Wolf produces a boat tail bullet but I think they only produce it in FMJ. Keep in mind this ammo is $.35 to $.40 per round whereas the cheapest HPBT .308 I saw on ammoseek was $.78 per round and most over a dollar. Edited June 13, 2012 by Jaba1017 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.