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Brownells Gun Kote or Teflon/Moly


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http://www.molyresin.com/

 

Properly applied and cured Moly Resin is some tough shit. I've used the flat, semi gloss, and gloss blacks

and swear by them now. The fact that Tromix uses it on their conversions should tell you something too.

I've never used Gun Kote so I can't comment on the product but I would imagine that just like most that are made for guns, it's all in the surface prep and curing.

Check ou the link for some good info............

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http://www.molyresin.com/

 

Properly applied and cured Moly Resin is some tough shit. I've used the flat, semi gloss, and gloss blacks

and swear by them now. The fact that Tromix uses it on their conversions should tell you something too.

I've never used Gun Kote so I can't comment on the product but I would imagine that just like most that are made for guns, it's all in the surface prep and curing.

Check ou the link for some good info............

 

Have you tried break parts cleaner on the finish?

 

If you soak a white rag and can run it across the surface without getting finish to come off on the rag, I would be impressed.

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I know this is splitting hairs, but flammable or non-flammable cleaner? I've used MEK and Laquer thinner on it without effecting it at all. I have both styles of brake clean at work and can give it a try on one of my muzzle brakes tomorrow to give an honest answer.

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I've used Duracoat with great success. Brake cleaner does not touch it.

My first experience with it was on my VZ58/2000 which I purchased from Ohio Ordnance.

The finish was first class and after some time I noticed the stuff would not scratch or wear.

So I called them and asked "What kind of finish are you using on these" They said it was Durabake from Duracoat and they use this finish on a lot of there firearms and swear by it.

Ever since then I've been using it religiously. I've used a lot of coatings in the past, although good, none have been quite as tuff as this. Except for maybe some Robar's coatings (Roguard, NP3, etc.), but these are VERY expensive.

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I've used Duracoat with great success. Brake cleaner does not touch it.

My first experience with it was on my VZ58/2000 which I purchased from Ohio Ordnance.

The finish was first class and after some time I noticed the stuff would not scratch or wear.

So I called them and asked "What kind of finish are you using on these" They said it was Durabake from Duracoat and they use this finish on a lot of there firearms and swear by it.

Ever since then I've been using it religiously. I've used a lot of coatings in the past, although good, none have been quite as tuff as this. Except for maybe some Robar's coatings (Roguard, NP3, etc.), but these are VERY expensive.

 

Regarding the regular (non-bake) Duracoat, I saw someone's post on another forum that was not in favor of it because of his experiences with it. However, others swear their full devotion to it.

If Duracoat can really withstand being soaked in brake parts cleaner for 5 minutes, I would prefer to go with that product because I can not fit a few rifles I want to refinish in my oven.

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I've used Brownell's teflon-moly on well over FORTY builds and AFTER it's been baked (that's AFTER) it will NOT come off with brake cleaner. I also have used on certain aplications some of their baking lacquer lightly sprayed over the teflon-moly for a certain "look" and after baking (that's AFTER BAKING) it didn't come off with brake cleaner or hoppes or anything either! Good shit that stuff!

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I'm doing a rifle in duracoat next week, I'll try coating a small part and soak it in brake cleaner for some time and see what happens. I'll let you know.

I know that alot has to do with surface prep, if you don't do a good job of preping, nothing will work!

 

The website says quote:

 

When is DuraCoat fully cured?

DuraCoat is dry to the touch in 20 minutes, can be handled in 1 hour and is ready for use overnight. Although DuraCoat will gain most of its final hardness, elasticity and chemical resistance over a 2-3 week period

 

 

 

Pretty amazing claim.

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Regarding the regular (non-bake) Duracoat, I saw someone's post on another forum that was not in favor of it because of his experiences with it. However, others swear their full devotion to it.

If Duracoat can really withstand being soaked in brake parts cleaner for 5 minutes, I would prefer to go with that product because I can not fit a few rifles I want to refinish in my oven.

 

The baked is always better. You just need to know someone who owns a pizzeria, they've got some wide ovens.

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A buddy and me were refinishing some AR barrels and receivers with the Brownell's stuff this weekend. This is the bake-on

 

They turned out really nice.

 

Granted he was applying about 4-5 light coats with an airbrush for consistency, but it's damn good.

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Moly Resin's good to go. Remembered to bring a Galil front sight to work today and soaked it in a can top full of 3M #08880 High Power Brake Cleaner (good industrial stuff) for over 10 minutes while I walked through the fleet this morning. Removed it and rubbed it with a shop towel-didn't touch a thing, soften it at all, or change the appearance of the satin black.

Once again I'll say that I think surface prep and baking is the key to getting the most out of most finishes.

I media blast all my steel stuff with silica sand, wash it in a MEK bath and give it a final spray down with MEK before spraying. Usually hang the parts in front of a Halogen lamp while spraying so I can see how it's flowing and it keeps the part at about 100 deg F. Last, I bake it for 1 ti 1 1/2hrs at 300 degrees f.

 

If the barreled receiver is too long to fit in your oven, I've seen posts on other AK boards where members made a chamber out of heater duct and used an electric charcol starter or a heat gun to supply the heat. Good luck

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Moly Resin's good to go. Remembered to bring a Galil front sight to work today and soaked it in a can top full of 3M #08880 High Power Brake Cleaner (good industrial stuff) for over 10 minutes while I walked through the fleet this morning. Removed it and rubbed it with a shop towel-didn't touch a thing, soften it at all, or change the appearance of the satin black.

Once again I'll say that I think surface prep and baking is the key to getting the most out of most finishes.

I media blast all my steel stuff with silica sand, wash it in a MEK bath and give it a final spray down with MEK before spraying. Usually hang the parts in front of a Halogen lamp while spraying so I can see how it's flowing and it keeps the part at about 100 deg F. Last, I bake it for 1 ti 1 1/2hrs at 300 degrees f.

 

If the barreled receiver is too long to fit in your oven, I've seen posts on other AK boards where members made a chamber out of heater duct and used an electric charcol starter or a heat gun to supply the heat. Good luck

 

Thanks for all of the replies. I appreciate them.

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