UnidenStew 1 Posted December 13, 2006 Report Share Posted December 13, 2006 (edited) I'm debating on rather or not to DuraCoat my Saiga. The only real complication I can see is that in my case, stripping the inside of the receiver is not possible as I can't remove all the FCG parts without drilling pins. I've read over Shieks tutorial on the conversion, and as far as I can tell is that you have to drill the trigger pin in order to disassemble it. The procedure to convert it is beyond my means, and abilities unless there is another way that doesn't require drilling. Drilling the trigger pin out is not hard, I know, but where do you get a proper replacement pin? Stripping the paint off is no big deal, and preparing the metal surface does not present to much of a problem as far as I can tell. The metal is already a little ruff, so the DuraCoat has something to bite into. I could always use medium steel wool if necessary. Disassembled, the rifle will fit inside my oven, so the bake on finish in the spray can seems to be the way to go for me. The only thing I'd have to leave is the inside of the receiver, but thats always coated with oil anyway, so It's not a real issue, just not professional. Sending it away to have it done costs between $160-$250 depending on who does it. Any thoughts, comments? Thanks all. Edited December 13, 2006 by MacMan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pointer 21 Posted December 14, 2006 Report Share Posted December 14, 2006 (edited) Your gonna have to spray the whole gun down with brake cleaner once your done sanding so theres not going to be oil inside the reciever.Duracoat is the better way to finish your Saiga no dought,but i have done numorous AK's and my Saiga 223 with Hi Temp paint.I use Dupli-Color engine enamel ceramic 500 degree low gloss black #DE1634.The way i do it is,remove old finish or just sand old finish smooth ,clean with brake cleaner,wash with water,wipe down and let dry. When your ready to spray,lightly heat up the parts with a propane torch,apply 3 coats then stick it in the oven at 300 degrees for 1 1/2 hours.I found the finish to be as good/better than the factory paint and it only costs $3 bucks,touch up when needed.The drawback is you gotta watch what cleaners get on it as some may damage it...then again all you have to do is touch it up. Edited December 14, 2006 by Pointer Quote Link to post Share on other sites
UnidenStew 1 Posted December 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2006 From What I gather from the DuraCoat web sight is that once you prepare the metal with brake cleaning fluid, or buy their stuff, you spray it on first. Then you put it in the oven at 180 degrees for a half hour. This speed dries it, but they recommend you leave it alone for at least 21 days or so for it to harden up before you assemble the weapon. It's safe to use after that, but they say it will take a year for it to cure. I thought about just leaving the factory finish on it as a primer, but decided to just strip it off with paint remover. It comes right off. I've already dabbed a small spot to see. I meant to say that with the receiver being normally oiled anyway, it's not going to be a real issue with rust. I know, I'd clean it out before I sprayed anything. On second thought, I don't see why I just couldn't spray over the FCG parts anyway. They claim that DuraCoat is a natural lubricant, so I don't see what it would hurt. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vjor 2 Posted December 15, 2006 Report Share Posted December 15, 2006 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ironhead7544 35 Posted December 15, 2006 Report Share Posted December 15, 2006 vjor: Thanks for the great info. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Freightman 0 Posted December 15, 2006 Report Share Posted December 15, 2006 vjor: Thanks for the great info. I bought a hand sand blaster from HF and it works good, but be sure to get a tight fitting eye protection, and a resparator. The resparator is so the sand doesn't get in your mouth, will grind off the enamel , or at least it felt like it was going to. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
UnidenStew 1 Posted December 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2006 (edited) Thank you vjor for the advice. You just saved me a lot of trouble, and dollars. Since I really don't have a work area to do it right, the best option for me is to have it done. Thanks again. Edited December 16, 2006 by MacMan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vjor 2 Posted December 16, 2006 Report Share Posted December 16, 2006 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
uzitiger 193 Posted December 16, 2006 Report Share Posted December 16, 2006 Your gonna have to spray the whole gun down with brake cleaner once your done sanding so theres not going to be oil inside the reciever.Duracoat is the better way to finish your Saiga no dought,but i have done numorous AK's and my Saiga 223 with Hi Temp paint.I use Dupli-Color engine enamel ceramic 500 degree low gloss black #DE1634.The way i do it is,remove old finish or just sand old finish smooth ,clean with brake cleaner,wash with water,wipe down and let dry. When your ready to spray,lightly heat up the parts with a propane torch,apply 3 coats then stick it in the oven at 300 degrees for 1 1/2 hours.I found the finish to be as good/better than the factory paint and it only costs $3 bucks,touch up when needed.The drawback is you gotta watch what cleaners get on it as some may damage it...then again all you have to do is touch it up. I use the same paint that Pointer does and it works well for me. Dupli Color's Engine Paint is inexpensive and matches the Saiga factory paint and is a lot more durable. I saw it at Auto Zone for $5.00 and once baked it is durable and is inexpensive to touch up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scoutjoe 276 Posted December 16, 2006 Report Share Posted December 16, 2006 is that a saiga i smell baking in the oven? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vermiform 26 Posted December 17, 2006 Report Share Posted December 17, 2006 is that a saiga i smell baking in the oven? I love the smell of Saiga in the morning! Smells like..........Victory. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlenderWizard 12 Posted December 23, 2006 Report Share Posted December 23, 2006 Damn, that blaster's only $15 from HF now! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
devin_c1 2 Posted December 27, 2006 Report Share Posted December 27, 2006 vijor ever try spray gun cleaner <laquer thinner> to clean dura coat from air brush?? i got testor model air brush and want to start painting just not sure what to use for clean up. dont want to tear it up. ps great tips on painting thanks devin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vjor 2 Posted December 28, 2006 Report Share Posted December 28, 2006 (edited) Edited December 28, 2006 by vjor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IndyArms 10,186 Posted December 28, 2006 Report Share Posted December 28, 2006 This reply has NOTHING to do with the painting aspect... But in regards to the first paragraph posted by Macman... Drilling the trigger pin out is not hard, I know, but where do you get a proper replacement pin? The answer to that is "you dont"! The trigger pin is already IN the gun held in place by the retaining wire - REUSEABLE. the NEW replacement trigger will move up to the REMOVABLE PIN LOCATION. The two old pins that were drilled out are thrown out, gone, not reused... and those holes filled in with black plastic hole plugs that look like rivets. as far as painting references... those made are excellent. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
devin_c1 2 Posted December 29, 2006 Report Share Posted December 29, 2006 cool man thanks again my neighbors a body man and has tons of auto gun cleaner but i was worried about melting testor air brush its plastic. it was like $50 but it has its own compresor. do they do a good job or do they not hold up to dura coat? i do plan to paint with it before tearing into my guns. i painted my ak desert tiger strip with sray cans and home made templates came out great used krylon suede paint gives it a great grip, plan to clear it with duracoat clear so it will hold up to oils. does the hf brush come with regulator to hook to full size compressor?? thanks again for great advice devin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vjor 2 Posted December 29, 2006 Report Share Posted December 29, 2006 (edited) Edited December 29, 2006 by vjor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
devin_c1 2 Posted December 30, 2006 Report Share Posted December 30, 2006 great advise again syringes great idea i was thinkin eye dropper. thanks again devin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
devin_c1 2 Posted December 30, 2006 Report Share Posted December 30, 2006 ok sorry to bugya again but, went ahead and ordered 2 air brushes 20 and ill get 4 bottles. and extra gun for phos. got water filter from hf $3 ordered reducer from lauer. is there any were to get reducer cheaper like from auto paint store?? and also do u think they might sell kphos so u dont have to pay shipping or is there another phos that works as well ?? thanks again u the man. sorry to be so technical but ive watch neighbor go thru all these lil steps to paint wondering why so deatailed until u see the end result then u under stand why all the lil steps to do it right Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vjor 2 Posted December 30, 2006 Report Share Posted December 30, 2006 (edited) Edited December 30, 2006 by vjor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vjor 2 Posted December 30, 2006 Report Share Posted December 30, 2006 By the way here is a link on how to do regular Zinc and Manganese Phosphate you will see that need a lots of stuff do to it. http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.com/note...rk/pagepark.htm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
devin_c1 2 Posted December 30, 2006 Report Share Posted December 30, 2006 thanks man just what i wanted to know. just trying to save enough to get more 10 rd 12 mags Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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