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Cutting a barrel: Finishing tips?


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Ok, I'm going to cut my 24" barrel down to just shy of 20", using a high-quality hack-saw and a mitre box. What do I need to do to finish out the cut end of the barrel? I know shotguns don't really have a crown as of such, but I figure it needs something, right?

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Ok, I'm going to cut my 24" barrel down to just shy of 20", using a high-quality hack-saw and a mitre box. What do I need to do to finish out the cut end of the barrel? I know shotguns don't really have a crown as of such, but I figure it needs something, right?

 

 

I've done a couple myself before and I had access to a counter bore with the right size pilot to square it up. But your using a miter box so all you should have to do is chamfer it a little inside and out. A good counter sink comes in handy for the inside edge.

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This is what I used when I cut and threaded mine. I scored the barrel with a pipe cutter and cut with a hacksaw. Then I dressed the end with the modded counter bore that I bought from Tony R.

I bought a die (have since traded) and made the barrel TAT. I just touched the inside diameter with a fine stone. The counter bore is quick, easy, and gets things squared up nice.

post-1866-1166241080_thumb.jpg

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I'm not a gunsmith! I cut my H&R Topper 12 Gauge shotgun barrel with a regular plumbing pipe cutter.

It took a while but it worked great. Take your time. Give it a twist every 4-5 turns and keep the cutting wheel snug. Deburr the inside end of the barrel with a Dremel tool, fine round file or some fine sandpaper.

Did I say I'm not a gunsmith. :rolleyes:

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That's cool! I need to thread mine also, but that may be further down the line. Did Tony custom make that for you, or does he just have some lying around?

 

 

All those tools you see in the pic can be bought @ brownells or tool supply catalogs. There not cheap. Unless you plan on doing it alot I'd have someone do it for you.

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This is what I used when I cut and threaded mine. I scored the barrel with a pipe cutter and cut with a hacksaw. Then I dressed the end with the modded counter bore that I bought from Tony R.

I bought a die (have since traded) and made the barrel TAT. I just touched the inside diameter with a fine stone. The counter bore is quick, easy, and gets things squared up nice.

 

Any chance you would rent these?

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Brownells isn't going to have anything for a Saiga 12-pretty sure on that but I haven't checked lately.

The only stuff I have left is the crowning tool and tat without die (traded), but it's not as easy as it seems to thread that's why I sold the die instead of releasing to members. **Die was made by Newman Tool in Canada at around $140***

The problem is that the barrel thickness varriation on some is quite a bit, I was lucky on mine, but everything centers to the barrel bore. If the barrel is thinner on one side you end up with shallow threads and they are very fine to start with. The second problem, even if you get past the first is that there is a small step cut on the end of the threaded barrel. Unless you have access to a lathe it's not an easy task.

It's not impossible, I did it more for a project, just a little involved and risky if you cut your barrel down and screw up on the threadding for some reason.

I'd have to think about selling the crowning tool, only been used once and with the availability of threaded

barrel models now I doubt I'll ever use it again. Rather sell than rent out as I don't want the liability of someone damaging/dulling it and passing it off to someone else.

 

Die specs are M22x.75 if anyone needs to know.

Edited by 6500rpm
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You can crown the barrel with a golfball and carburundium paste -sold in small tubes at the auto suppy as valve grinding compound. Put a little on the golfball and spin between your hands on the muzzle untill you get an even grey circle all around the inside edge of the muzzle.

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I'm not a gunsmith! I cut my H&R Topper 12 Gauge shotgun barrel with a regular plumbing pipe cutter.

It took a while but it worked great. Take your time. Give it a twist every 4-5 turns and keep the cutting wheel snug.

 

No, crank that thing up! 2 twists per turn gives you full choke, 1 twist gives you modified, etc.

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I'm not a gunsmith! I cut my H&R Topper 12 Gauge shotgun barrel with a regular plumbing pipe cutter.

It took a while but it worked great. Take your time. Give it a twist every 4-5 turns and keep the cutting wheel snug.

 

No, crank that thing up! 2 twists per turn gives you full choke, 1 twist gives you modified, etc.

 

 

I'd be careful. a choke is suposed to be a nice gradual taper not a sharp ridge that results with a pipe cutter.

You can go ahead and do it that way but I like my face just the way it it.

It doesn't cost that much to have a pro bore it for remchokes.

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Hey, I cut my barrel to make a cheap home defense weapon. I wasn't trying to get fancy or anything. I have shot it several times since the cut and I still have a nose!

post-4307-1166417775_thumb.jpg

Edited by pogy
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Hey, I cut my barrel to make a cheap home defense weapon. I wasn't trying to get fancy or anything. I have shot it several times since the cut and I still have a nose!

post-4307-1166417775_thumb.jpg

 

 

But you also took your time to take a dremel tool to remove the ridge left behind from the pipe cutter. I have cut barrels this way before also and it does work. My comment wasn't directed towards you. My point was directed towards using the ridge left behind as a choke.

 

By the way, sweet H&R. I've had several and there a great gun. I still hunt deer with 1 and it's the most accurate slug gun on the market imo.

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No offense taken.

Hey I just would have bought a 18 inch but thats just me I gotta Mini-30 I will trade you for that S-12

Its really nice and the barrel is cut down already!! Good luck Andrew and thanks for the trade. I would just use the pipe cutter it will work and just clean it up. Those barrels are some hard shit anyway. Save the money for some mags!

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