Jump to content

Conversion Complete


Recommended Posts

The conversion on the Saiga .223 is complete. I may try venting the forearm at a later date.

 

I followed the directions by Sheik Yerbouti (http://www.cross-conn.com/Saiga_Conversion/). They are an extremely valuable guide.

 

My preference was to go for a "sniper" type appearance with the 20" barrel so I used a Choate Dragunov butt stock to achieve what another member referred to as a "Ghettonov" style. Since I started with a Saiga, I didn't have the retaining hardware necessary to install the forearm kit. That's no big deal because I kinda like the stock forearm anyway.

 

I am not a mechanically inclined by any stretch of anyone's imagination. The conversion was done with a hand drill, a brand new set of Craftsman Cobalt drills and an old Dremel tool that has been vastly neglected for 30 years and assorted hand tools. The Dremel saved my butt in this build!

 

Since the "Sheik" first wrote his instructions, there have been some advancements (at least what I have experienced in my build) that I would like to share with the forum viewers. Take 'um, leave 'um or modify them for future viewers.

 

In "Step 3", you need to file down the rivet next to the magazine lever and the rivet under the trigger guard because they can't be reached by a Dremel with a cutting wheel.(I was using Dremel Brand #420 Heavy Duty Cutoff Wheels). You can grind or file the rearmost rivet as the directions relate.

 

My problem was with the "spot weld" on the trigger plate. I wanted to save the trigger guard and tried to drill it as per the directions. I dulled a bunch of drill bits in the process. If you want to save the trigger guard,(and some drill bits) forget about the spot weld until the trigger plate is removed. Take your Dremel and grind the weld off from the back side.

 

I was lucky because I have a recent .223 RAA import that had the trigger hole and pistol grip hole underneath the trigger plate .

 

My next big problem was in Step 7. The trouble was with the part called the "disconnector assembly".

 

I tried and tried to tap that pin out with a nail set but that did not work. The solution was drilling the pin out with a 15/64th drill. The pin spinned when I tried to drill it out so I jammed an appropriately sized slotted screw driver in the opposite end to stabilize it. After drilling out an eighth inch, the pin let loose and the assembly separated without the spring flying off into oblivion. (Take care anyway as per the directions)

 

The hammer/trigger/spring/axle pin reinstallation thing is what scared me the most before starting the build. It was a piece of cake. I bought a Tapco Single Hook Trigger Assembly. It came with a sleeve similar to the one I had just knocked out of the "disconnector assembly" but a bit longer. The disconnector, disconnector spring and trigger can be assembled outside of the receiver using that sleeve. You can just drop this assembly in the receiver and slip an axle pin through. I didn't bother reinstalling the "bolt hold open" since it only has marginal utility in my opinion.

 

Do yourself a giant favor and buy a "pin retainer plate" I got mine from Red Star Arms but I believe Tapco sells them also. It will eliminate the need for the two binding post screws, one of which would hold the "shepherds crook" spring that it replaces. Using the retainer plate lets you put together the hammer and spring assembly, insert its axle pin and then place the trigger assembly and its axle pin. The retainer plate then anchors both pins and is itself anchored by the "safety/selector lever.

 

The Choate butt stock needed a bit of relief as the rear of the receiver was contacting the stock not allowing the tang to line up with the screw hole. I had no pistol grip nut or bolt but almost any combination of nut, bolt or washers will work since there is plenty of room in the receiver without the extra trigger parts.

 

I hope this is helpful to you folks thinking about doing a conversion. Pictures would have been nice but my camera doesn't do closeups well.

post-4307-1166755714_thumb.jpg

Edited by pogy
Link to post
Share on other sites

?? It shot OK before the conversion. The trigger seems much smoother now. Hope the weather holds 'til after the holidays and I'll try it again.

Edited by pogy
Link to post
Share on other sites
?? It shot OK before the conversion. The trigger seems much smoother now. Hope the weather holds 'til after the holidays and I'll try it again.

 

Get a polishing kit for the dremel and polish the ear of the trigger and inside claw of trigger, things

get a lot smooth and nice after that.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Are you talking about a felt wheel and some buffing compound? I have those already. Is there any way I could go too far and make the action dangerous?

 

 

nope if you use only the buffing wheels, no grinding wheels, use emery paper to

take the paint off the part and latter buffer to a mirror, they even sale a

rubber wheel buffer for the dremel that does really a good job.

Link to post
Share on other sites
My next big problem was in Step 7. The trouble was with the part called the "disconnector assembly".

 

I tried and tried to tap that pin out with a nail set but that did not work. The solution was drilling the pin out with a 15/64th drill. The pin spinned when I tried to drill it out so I jammed an appropriately sized slotted screw driver in the opposite end to stabilize it. After drilling out an eighth inch, the pin let loose and the assembly separated without the spring flying off into oblivion. (Take care anyway as per the directions)

 

The hammer/trigger/spring/axle pin reinstallation thing is what scared me the most before starting the build. It was a piece of cake. I bought a Tapco Single Hook Trigger Assembly. It came with a sleeve similar to the one I had just knocked out of the "disconnector assembly" but a bit longer. The disconnector, disconnector spring and trigger can be assembled outside of the receiver using that sleeve. You can just drop this assembly in the receiver and slip an axle pin through. I didn't bother reinstalling the "bolt hold open" since it only has marginal utility in my opinion.

 

Do yourself a giant favor and buy a "pin retainer plate" I got mine from Red Star Arms but I believe Tapco sells them also. It will eliminate the need for the two binding post screws, one of which would hold the "shepherds crook" spring that it replaces. Using the retainer plate lets you put together the hammer and spring assembly, insert its axle pin and then place the trigger assembly and its axle pin. The retainer plate then anchors both pins and is itself anchored by the "safety/selector lever.

 

 

I used a cutoff wheel on the disconnector sleeve, I tried for like 20mins to knock it out so I pushed the disconnector to one side and cut off one end of the sleeve and was able to just slip the rest out.

 

The sheppards crook replacement is a must buy.

Link to post
Share on other sites
?? It shot OK before the conversion. The trigger seems much smoother now. Hope the weather holds 'til after the holidays and I'll try it again.

 

Get a polishing kit for the dremel and polish the ear of the trigger and inside claw of trigger, things

get a lot smooth and nice after that.

 

 

Im going to do that to mine as soon as I get back from vacation.

Link to post
Share on other sites
vjor,

I buffed up the trigger like you suggested and it is even smoother now.

Thanks and Merry Christmas

 

Merry Chritsmas to you too, by the way now that you polish the hammer ear and

trigger claw, you can try some shoulder bump fire if they let you at your range, just

hold the front hand guard tight and let the finger be weak and loose on the trigger

the recoil will let you bump from the shoulder easy, you may get some short burst

at first and as you practice, you can bump hold mag, just make sure the gun dont go

flying out of your hands.

 

Plus with a smooth hammer you may get better groups on the target, something you will

see.

Edited by vjor
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Chatbox

    Load More
    You don't have permission to chat.
×
×
  • Create New...