asintaderoche 0 Posted June 8, 2003 Report Share Posted June 8, 2003 just finished the match today with multiple failure to eject the fired shell. the bolt does not travel full back, instead it returns ahead and catch the fired shell jamming the action with a chamber loaded situation, so racking the bolt will cause a doubled feed. i had just cleaned my gun before that, the gas regulator set on #2, i'm using the same shot #8 birdshot in all my matches before 'til now.....in one full 8 rounds i'll have 3 jams...is the gas port already dirty? never cleaned that thing since i got it......can anybody help.. thanks... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SaltPeter 6 Posted June 8, 2003 Report Share Posted June 8, 2003 (edited) Hmm... How many rounds have you shot through it so far (take a guess)? what exact kind of ammo are you using? Maybe try a hotter load. you've NEVER cleaned the gun? The gas tube may still be full of cosmoline. Clean it! I think the third point is gonna be the source of your problem. I think I read before that you have the Saiga 12C, just like me. If you read your manual, 2.3 on page 4 states that before using the gun, you must depreserve it. See, a lot of foriegn countries (Russia, China, Egypt, pretty much everyone that makes AK types and SKSs) pack the guns in heavy grease (cosmoline) after manufacture. The reason is that the guns may sit in storage for long periods of time and the grease prevents any moisture from getting to the metal, therefore preventing rust. The grease works well for this purpose, but it is in no way a lubricant, and it will gum up your action good. On my Saiga, I noticed when I got it that it didn't have as much cosmoline as I have seen in other packed firearms (AK rifles and SKSs), but it did have a thin coating. If you've been shooting a shotgun full of that grease, the burnt residue from the gases will mix with the stuff to make a dirty, muddy goo inside your gun. My advice is get some Gun Scubber and go to work. Edited June 8, 2003 by SaltPeter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bigpond73 0 Posted June 8, 2003 Report Share Posted June 8, 2003 I had this problem too, and what I seemed to find that worked, was putting in lots of lube. This shotgun loves lube, and it doesn't like dry lube (like graphite or whatever). I oiled the hell out of mine, and it shoots great now, haven't had one FTE since then. Hope that helps. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jackhammer 0 Posted June 8, 2003 Report Share Posted June 8, 2003 Clean the thing good dude(WD-40 seems to work the best for cleaning\lube)Also bring some wd-40 with ya when you go!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SaltPeter 6 Posted June 9, 2003 Report Share Posted June 9, 2003 WD-40 may work for a while, but being that it's a silicone-based lube, it can eventually thicken and gum up. For firearms, it's better to use a petroleum- based or teflon based-lube. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave H. (AR-50, Pa Wolfpack) 0 Posted June 9, 2003 Report Share Posted June 9, 2003 SaltPeter Any specific reccomendations? Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
asintaderoche 0 Posted June 9, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2003 cleaned the gun pretty well and lube it all over except in the gas chamber, this area remains dry...just gun scrub it with bore cleaner and wiped it till i was satisfied its really dry...if this work... i'm gonna include this ritual every time i clean my saiga.... removing the gas selector is very easy i thought i'm going to spend some time figuring it out....thanks.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ak01q 0 Posted June 9, 2003 Report Share Posted June 9, 2003 (edited) Yeah, you have to clean the piston before you use it. My piston was fairly well gunked up out of the box. I'm glad I am curious and usually dis-mantle everything I get before I use it. Taking the regulator out is a snap, just have to hold that damn dowel pin down. Edited June 9, 2003 by ak01q Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SaltPeter 6 Posted June 9, 2003 Report Share Posted June 9, 2003 Dave H. There are many choices: Outers Gun Oil, Remington RemOil, Hoppe's #9 Oil, Kleen Bore Formula 3, Break-Free, Birchwood-Casey Sheath, Gunk Liquid Wrench... Some of the above can be purchased in an aeresol can. Spraying the lube on is much easier and gets it into all the little areas that you would normally have trouble lubricating, but the aeresol cans are more expensive. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jackhammer 0 Posted June 9, 2003 Report Share Posted June 9, 2003 I dont know how often you clean your firearms, and I dont know how much you shoot Saltpeter. But WD-40 is everywhere If you worry about "gum up" I have never had a problem with that at all(and thats shooting a good bit too)Its safe on plastics too!!!! It works very well to remove sand and dirt. As long as you dont shoot more than 500rds between cleaning's Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bvamp 604 Posted June 10, 2003 Report Share Posted June 10, 2003 (edited) "break-free" will dissolve powder, but only use this once in a while, work moving parts with this, saturating the malfunctioning parts/parts group. then wipe and shake out/off, then use wd-40 to cut all that petrol product off, clean and wipe till its totally clean in every way, then use ONE SMALL DROP PER MOVING PART OF LIGHT MACHINE OIL (spend five bucks on a small can) to lube. work the action and trigger/safety for a few seconds. thats the hard way, but anyone that puts 1000's of rounds through thier guns does that. DO NOT LEAVE OIL IN THE BARREL OR CHAMBER! WIPE IT CLEAN AFTER! oil will leave a vacum seal on a case or hull and even can expand the chamber of a firearm. the rest of it will burn off after a couple shots, which is fine. if you smell like oil and powder after a session, you are doing it right, but you dont need to make a mess. you clean it every time. unless someone here thinks this is africa or something ? we all arent at war or anything i hope? :/ clean your guns ppl. the one time you need it it will fail you if you dont. also, i have noticed a hang on the AK action, usually from a misaligned gas cylinder or trigger group. make SURE your gas cylinder is cleaned if you have bolt action problems, and also check your trigger/sear relief from the bottom bolt surface. sometimes a malformed part will get in there and cause friction and stop the action in its tracks, though a 12 guage round shouldnt be affected by that nor its action.... Edited June 10, 2003 by Bvamp Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bvamp 604 Posted June 10, 2003 Report Share Posted June 10, 2003 (edited) also check your chamber for oil or lube. that WILL cause sticking on a gas blowback system like ak or ar, and cause a jam. also overloading, oiling, or dirt in clips, CLIPS ARE RUN DRY AS A BONE... etc etc....tell us what you DID and what happened even if it DONT work and we will help you if we all can. at least if we cant we will all learn something and thats what this forum is for i think, ultimately. Edited June 10, 2003 by Bvamp Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bvamp 604 Posted June 10, 2003 Report Share Posted June 10, 2003 I will go find that can of stuff i use and tell you all the name of it. its godlike on firearms. sorry i cant remember, its up in the shop with the guns. "the best stuff on earth" LOL wouldnt surprise me. ill let you know this week. its #1 for cleaners in my book, and ill gladly share the name of it with ya'll when *I* can remember it Ill look this week when i go shooting. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tokarev 0 Posted September 14, 2003 Report Share Posted September 14, 2003 I attended a carbine/patrol rifle course put on by a retired SF'er while I was living in Texas. What did he recommend for firearms lube? Good qualilty synthetic motor oil! 20-50w was what he was using. I don't remember the brand. Plus this stuff works well in automobile engines, if you're inclined to use it that way. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gaddis 1,689 Posted September 29, 2003 Report Share Posted September 29, 2003 Here's a recipe for lube someone posted over at REC.GUNS a few years back that I use on my Saiga-12 (seems to work pretty decent). The only nitpick I have with it is the guy who originally posted it says it doesn't "creep" after it's applied (which I find it does), but it is dirt cheap to mix up a batch and use it compared to most of the commercial (store bought) firearms lubes that are floating around out there. I meant to post the recipe sooner, but have been busy doing other stuff. Anyway, here's what you'll need: Subject: Re: using motor oil as gun lube Date: 21 Sep 1998 00:55:01 -0400 In article <6u1mhk$1ai@xring.cs.umd.edu>, "Halleluya Boy" <mercury2@idt.net> wrote: # What is the concensus on using motor oil for lubing guns?(especially for # slide rails on semi-autos) Any particular brand or weight(10W-30 or 20W-50) # seems to work better? Thanks Well over a year ago someone (I did not record the name) posted this formula on rec.guns. Said they got it from a National Guard rangemaster, etc. (I think). Anyway: 2 parts Dexron II or III automatic transmission fluid 1 Part Mobil-1 Synthetic Oil, 30 weight, or 10W-30 1 Part STP Oil Treatment (the stuff for old cars w/ over 30,000 mi.) This is very "oily", i.e. slick, greasy, adheres very well to metal, with little or no creep. Thus it does not appear to drain from slides on extended storage (in contrast to Rem Oil, or Breakfree CLP). I've used this for about a year on semi-auto pistol slides and pump shotgun action bars and find is superior to anything else I've ever used, both for shooting, and for extended storage. (Cheap, too!) Gary DuVall ========== Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StarLynx 0 Posted September 29, 2003 Report Share Posted September 29, 2003 From experience in the field with My Saiga12....No matter how dirty..how oily..not oily....1 or 2 setting.....what ever.....It don't shoot ANYTHING..under 1oz loads...1 oz & above loads..& it eats em like they were go'n out of style...:-) Stay Safer!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
inparidel 4 Posted October 17, 2003 Report Share Posted October 17, 2003 Be sure of you settings. The "2" setting is for low brass, and the "1" setting is for three inch magnums. That may be the problem. Also as one poster mentioned, there are 7/8 oz. shot loads that are for international sporting clays. They are 60 ft. per sec faster than the 1 oz shot loads. They are often on sale in 250 round boxes cheap at Walmart. Avoid them. 3 1/2 dram powder charges and at least 1 oz. of shot will cycle you Saiga without fail. The lighter, faster shot loads do not spend enough time in the barrel to develop the pressure needed to cycle the beast. Also, I recently decided to get away from the years of breathing and absorbing toxic crap into my body cleaning and lubricating my guns. I switched to Mil Comm synthetic solvents and lubes. They smell like hand lotion and are non-toxic and keep AF gatling guns, Vulcans and mini-guns running in desert conditions for tens of thousands of rounds without failures. Check into it. All my guns love it. My body loves it, and so does my Saiga 12. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.