.308 FCG trouble NEED HELP!

[Maniac Jack 2]

Hey guys, I got a technical question for anybody who can give an answer.

 

I bought a .308 16" awhile ago that had already been converted to pistol grip, and I finally got around to shooting it with a FBMG 20 round mag, and happened to have a few "problems," if you will. I would get a lot of stove-piping halfway through one mag and then not a hiccup the next mag. I started looking at the bolt as it was firing and it turns out that part of the time it wasn't slamming back all the way, or it looked like it kinda got hung up for a split second, just not enough oomph to eject the shell all the way. I was shooting brass cased Federal Power Shock 150 grain, so I was pretty sure it wasn't the ammo.

So, that all in mind, I take off the receiver cover and check out the FCG. Now, mind you, I have never seen an AK FCG in a Saiga .308 before. My FCG knowledge is limited to Romanian and Yugoslavian AKs. Now when I look in there, it seems that the hammer is alright (although it is tad bit thicker than the hammer in my unconverted .308), but I notice that whoever put this FCG in there didn't bother to grind down the trigger hook, as it sticks way up past the hammer when its down.

Upon further comparison, I notice that the unconverted trigger group of a Saiga .308 is way lower profile than a regular AK FCG, and I imagine that this is to accommodate the larger bolt and carrier for the larger sized .308 round. So, I was thinking that I ought to take both FCGs out, and use the unconverted Saiga FCG as a template for grinding down the FCG that's in my PG .308, and while I'm at it, convert my other .308.

So, even with all this thought out, its all still speculation on my part. If anyone can confirm the possibility of any of this with cold hard facts, I would be in their debt forever Even better, if anyone can supply a good picture of a properly ground, or proper looking trigger group for a Saiga .308 it would be great. Thanks.

[O.S.O.K. 0]

Well, I would suggest getting the red star vepr 308 fcg - I know its more $$ but its so worth it - fully adjustable, no worries.

 

That's probably a G-2 fcg - a wonderful fcg for standard AK's but not the s308...

 

I do know that there are existing posts on the proper modification needed - so I'd search and find those if that's the way you need to go.

[busy_squirrel 1]

Makes sense.

 

I dont have any pictures with it outta the gun, but here's a few looking down into an unconverted one.

 

 

 

 

[1liter 20]

Pull the spring out and try a pic, then let the hammer go forward and snap again. Probably get a better view.

 

 

 

Makes sense.

 

I dont have any pictures with it outta the gun, but here's a few looking down into an unconverted one.

 

 

 

 

[busy_squirrel 1]

Don't have the gun on me right now...those were from my hard drive...

[shaneman153a 39]

WTF is everyone's problem with the G2?? I have one in mine, I did nothing other than remove the front material for clearance, and polish the hammer, and where the trigger releases. I have never had feed problems. 26.99 well spent. Do you G2 haters have any experience with this product in a 308 or are you just advertising for RSA? I'm not trying to flame you O.S.O.K., but this isn't the first time you've said this, and I just want to know.... Did I just get lucky with my G2?

 

If you are the do it yourself kinda person, I am pretty sure you won't have problems with a G2 if you give it a little TLC before you put it in. Furthermore, it costs about 1/3 of that RSA.

[Maniac Jack 2]

So, if I wanted to get a Red Star Arms trigger I'd want to get the VEPR .308 version? And does anybody have a detailed pic or a link to a thread that talks about and/or shows how to fit a G2 in a Saiga .308? Thanks.

[Cobra 76 two 2,677]

I'm with Shane. I don't have any probs at all with the G-2. Yeah if I had an RSA I might be all proud of it and talkin it up but I won't spend that much on an AK FCG. The single hook G-2s I just put in my last two S-308 conversions function flawlessly and all I did was grind off the hump at the bottom front of the hammer and take off some for the BHO on the right side. I also polished the face of the hammer for the bolt carrier to ride across it smoothly and contact surfaces on the hammer and trigger hook just to make it light and smooth. Those are the only mods I made and I now have a perfectly functioning 3.5 lb trigger on both rifles. Keep in mind that you also need to either replace the selector with an AKM or S-12 (or similar) one or weld a small extension on the RT hand side of the 308 selector so it will contact the back of the trigger and the safety will work.

[N4KVE 14]

I don't know what the big deal is. My builder used FSE HTS, & didn't grind anything & used the stock selecter. Works great & I can't make it fire at the wrong time. In other words in the safe mode it won't fire no matter how many times I move the selector up & down. When I asked what HTS he would be using, he said there were problems with G2, but the FSE worked as is & stock selecter too. No one mentions FSE here, but for my .308 they work great. GARY N4KVE

[texlurch 0]

I have a G2 in one 308, and an RSA in the other. Neither required grinding on the trigger hook, just some minor clearancing on the hammer of the G2. I polish all my G2 hook and hammer surfaces as a habit, as well as the back of the hammer where the bolt rides. I have had bolts stick in regular 7.62x39 AK's before.

I would take the trigger out and see how it is marked, to verify what you have in there.